Hello!
Photos are up for Kobe, Kyoto and Yokohama.
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Enjoy!
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Fall in Kobe, Japan
Our ship was greeted by a brass band early Thursday morning as we pulled into Kobe harbor. The group of local students played John Phillip Souza as we pulled alongside and, with the fall weather in the air, we all felt like we were headed to a college football game not a Japanese port. A Taiko drumming group played next - totally great. I love Taiko drumming and it reminded me of a wonderful drumming performance I was able to see a few years ago at the Mondavi Center in Davis, California.
After a very involved immigration process, we had a few mishaps to start off our short stop in Kobe (our homestay was unexpectedly cancelled amidst other ship stresses) but we rallied and had a really nice two days. Friday afternoon we spent wandering the Kitano-cho (a neighborhood in central Kobe) and enjoyed just walking the narrow streets and taking in our surroundings. We came across some European-influenced architecture in a region that was predominately non-Japanese through the mid-1900s. What is left are examples of ex-pat homes from England, Holland, France, etc and a more recent Japanese obsession with Western bridal couture.
After a pre-dinner soft-serve ice cream cone (it's so rare, you don't pass it up!), we wandered into what became a highlight of our time in Kobe: a restaurant called Kutjari no Andy (Andy the Whale) owned by a very sweet, funny and friendly couple - Hitomi and Tomonari. We bellied up to the bar for an early evening beer and were soon engaged in conversation that keep us laughing and trying out our very limited Japanese. I might note that Hitomi and Tomonari speak much better English than our Japanese - enough that we were able to converse without any problems and any troublesome translations were created mostly on our end.
We were having such a great time exchanging stories and small gifts (stickers, postcards, origami, business cards), that we decided to stay for dinner. We had pasta, ironically, with homemade meat sauce (just like Grandma Hollister's!) and freshly sauteed shittake mushrooms with cream sauce. Heavenly! Can you tell we're jonesing for homecooked and familiar food? Actually, it was the freshness that won us over - I didn't care what they cooked! We also had nicely toasted rye bread and a Japanese-style salad (cabbage, cucumber, radish all thinly sliced and sprinkled with vinegar and pepper). The best part of all this was watching the two of them chop and slice our food just a few feet from the large wooden bar overlooking the small kitchen. Again, this is when I realized how much I miss cooking with Bill or friends at home, talking as we prepare a savory meal together. Hitomi and Tomonari's little restaurant essentially replicated that feeling for me in its physical space and emotional appeal.
As the meal progressed, some friends of theirs that live in the neighborhood joined us and as we enjoyed our food and they drank a few beers, Tomonari began making a homemade bread batter (simply good bread, processed and spiced) for the kakiage (tempura made from bread crumbs not flour) they were soon frying on the stove. If only we'd known - we might have ordered this (the menu we saw was all Western-style food)! They were breading and frying fresh cuts of fish, shrimp, asparagus wrapped with prosciutto....yum. But, no complaints as everything they made was truly delicious and we actually were treated to samples of some of the other Japanese dishes they began preparing. Had a little seaweed salad with salted fish as well as pickled greens with fried tofu.
Anyway, needless to say we were very impressed with our chefs and new friends. As we reluctantly left, everyone bid us goodbye and sent well wishes for the rest of our journey. My favorite memory of the evening was Hitomi and Tomonari walking us outside to the little walkway separating the rows of businesses and homes and waving us off with big smiles. As we walked down the alley, I looked back to see them still waving and wishing us a good evening - so cute!!
Kyoto:
Spent our second day in Kyoto, the capital of Japan for over 11 centuries before Tokyo. We took the train from Kobe - Japanese trains are incredible! Expensive but very clean, easy to use and efficient. It took us just under an hour by the local JR commuter train. Kyoto is very pretty, especially with the fall weather and changing leaves. Bill and I were both enjoying these elements as we strolled along the busy streets, crammed with tourists from all over Japan with a few foreigners mixed into the crowds.
Our first stop was Higashi Honganji temple - a beautiful, functioning Buddhist temple that is under-going some renovation. The process of restoring and protecting these gorgeous wooden structures seems endless and very thorough. Actually, much of Kyoto's historic architecture has had to be rebuilt over the years due to fire. This particular facility was very simple and elegant - the tongue and groove building structure is incredible...a carpenter's heaven. The floor mats were my favorite - called tatami in Japanese. And the paper screens nestled in grooves behind the huge wooden outer doors are beautiful.
We wandered through town and walked along a canal for a bit, observing the thoughtfully designed pathways that serve as flood dikes as well as recreational spaces. Many folks were strolling along in the nice weather and we enjoyed watching a man in thigh-high waders as he fished the small stream.
I really liked the Gion neighborhood that we walked through after crossing the canal. This is a very pretty neighborhood, complete with narrow streets and old-style homes. So fun! Lots of tourists, however, and it was challenging to take in the sights and avoid running into other pedestrians. I was on the look-out for geisha, though I read that they are normally not seen until early evening as they dart through the streets on their way to appointments. I think I might read Memoirs of a Geisha again - it was just as the author described with doorways in all directions and secret passageways that only the locals can navigate easily.
We hopped on a bus and headed to the Ginkajuri-ji temple area in the northwest corner of central Kyoto. We shared a nice lunch - a bento box of rice, sashimi (raw tuna), salad, greens and miso soup and an order of soba noodles with two cokes. Yum! We then walked the Philosophers Path, an old walkway along another much smaller canal through neighborhoods. It was so beautiful and peaceful. It was reminiscent of strolling along a quiet, tree-lined street in New England for me. Dad, I grabbed a few red Maple and Gingko leaves for you that I'll mail in my next note.
We hopped the bus back to Kyoto station and headed back to Kobe on the train crammed with commuters and school children. We got back on the ship and waved goodbye to the high school band that came back to play some jazz and send us off to Yokohama. We are to arrive tomorrow morning and will have another two days to explore what we can. I will certainly be back to Japan - it's lovely!
I am posting photos right now so check out our photo site:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Much love,
heather ;)
After a very involved immigration process, we had a few mishaps to start off our short stop in Kobe (our homestay was unexpectedly cancelled amidst other ship stresses) but we rallied and had a really nice two days. Friday afternoon we spent wandering the Kitano-cho (a neighborhood in central Kobe) and enjoyed just walking the narrow streets and taking in our surroundings. We came across some European-influenced architecture in a region that was predominately non-Japanese through the mid-1900s. What is left are examples of ex-pat homes from England, Holland, France, etc and a more recent Japanese obsession with Western bridal couture.
After a pre-dinner soft-serve ice cream cone (it's so rare, you don't pass it up!), we wandered into what became a highlight of our time in Kobe: a restaurant called Kutjari no Andy (Andy the Whale) owned by a very sweet, funny and friendly couple - Hitomi and Tomonari. We bellied up to the bar for an early evening beer and were soon engaged in conversation that keep us laughing and trying out our very limited Japanese. I might note that Hitomi and Tomonari speak much better English than our Japanese - enough that we were able to converse without any problems and any troublesome translations were created mostly on our end.
We were having such a great time exchanging stories and small gifts (stickers, postcards, origami, business cards), that we decided to stay for dinner. We had pasta, ironically, with homemade meat sauce (just like Grandma Hollister's!) and freshly sauteed shittake mushrooms with cream sauce. Heavenly! Can you tell we're jonesing for homecooked and familiar food? Actually, it was the freshness that won us over - I didn't care what they cooked! We also had nicely toasted rye bread and a Japanese-style salad (cabbage, cucumber, radish all thinly sliced and sprinkled with vinegar and pepper). The best part of all this was watching the two of them chop and slice our food just a few feet from the large wooden bar overlooking the small kitchen. Again, this is when I realized how much I miss cooking with Bill or friends at home, talking as we prepare a savory meal together. Hitomi and Tomonari's little restaurant essentially replicated that feeling for me in its physical space and emotional appeal.
As the meal progressed, some friends of theirs that live in the neighborhood joined us and as we enjoyed our food and they drank a few beers, Tomonari began making a homemade bread batter (simply good bread, processed and spiced) for the kakiage (tempura made from bread crumbs not flour) they were soon frying on the stove. If only we'd known - we might have ordered this (the menu we saw was all Western-style food)! They were breading and frying fresh cuts of fish, shrimp, asparagus wrapped with prosciutto....yum. But, no complaints as everything they made was truly delicious and we actually were treated to samples of some of the other Japanese dishes they began preparing. Had a little seaweed salad with salted fish as well as pickled greens with fried tofu.
Anyway, needless to say we were very impressed with our chefs and new friends. As we reluctantly left, everyone bid us goodbye and sent well wishes for the rest of our journey. My favorite memory of the evening was Hitomi and Tomonari walking us outside to the little walkway separating the rows of businesses and homes and waving us off with big smiles. As we walked down the alley, I looked back to see them still waving and wishing us a good evening - so cute!!
Kyoto:
Spent our second day in Kyoto, the capital of Japan for over 11 centuries before Tokyo. We took the train from Kobe - Japanese trains are incredible! Expensive but very clean, easy to use and efficient. It took us just under an hour by the local JR commuter train. Kyoto is very pretty, especially with the fall weather and changing leaves. Bill and I were both enjoying these elements as we strolled along the busy streets, crammed with tourists from all over Japan with a few foreigners mixed into the crowds.
Our first stop was Higashi Honganji temple - a beautiful, functioning Buddhist temple that is under-going some renovation. The process of restoring and protecting these gorgeous wooden structures seems endless and very thorough. Actually, much of Kyoto's historic architecture has had to be rebuilt over the years due to fire. This particular facility was very simple and elegant - the tongue and groove building structure is incredible...a carpenter's heaven. The floor mats were my favorite - called tatami in Japanese. And the paper screens nestled in grooves behind the huge wooden outer doors are beautiful.
We wandered through town and walked along a canal for a bit, observing the thoughtfully designed pathways that serve as flood dikes as well as recreational spaces. Many folks were strolling along in the nice weather and we enjoyed watching a man in thigh-high waders as he fished the small stream.
I really liked the Gion neighborhood that we walked through after crossing the canal. This is a very pretty neighborhood, complete with narrow streets and old-style homes. So fun! Lots of tourists, however, and it was challenging to take in the sights and avoid running into other pedestrians. I was on the look-out for geisha, though I read that they are normally not seen until early evening as they dart through the streets on their way to appointments. I think I might read Memoirs of a Geisha again - it was just as the author described with doorways in all directions and secret passageways that only the locals can navigate easily.
We hopped on a bus and headed to the Ginkajuri-ji temple area in the northwest corner of central Kyoto. We shared a nice lunch - a bento box of rice, sashimi (raw tuna), salad, greens and miso soup and an order of soba noodles with two cokes. Yum! We then walked the Philosophers Path, an old walkway along another much smaller canal through neighborhoods. It was so beautiful and peaceful. It was reminiscent of strolling along a quiet, tree-lined street in New England for me. Dad, I grabbed a few red Maple and Gingko leaves for you that I'll mail in my next note.
We hopped the bus back to Kyoto station and headed back to Kobe on the train crammed with commuters and school children. We got back on the ship and waved goodbye to the high school band that came back to play some jazz and send us off to Yokohama. We are to arrive tomorrow morning and will have another two days to explore what we can. I will certainly be back to Japan - it's lovely!
I am posting photos right now so check out our photo site:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Much love,
heather ;)
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Shanghai
Hello from near the Yellow Sea (I think we are technically south of it). We left Shanghai late last night and are sailing toward Kobe, Japan. I'm looking forward to our short stop in Japan and our homestay with students and their families from Kansai University in Osaka.
Our time in Shanghai was very brief, totally just about 24 hours ashore. Between our weather delay in arriving and the involved immigration process, we did not set foot on land until 3pm on the 10th and did not pull away until almost 11pm the following day. A quick, surreal stop to say the least.
The good news is that we connected with my cousin, David Ricks, and his family. They have just moved to Shanghai this past summer and are settling into life in the PRC. We were lucky enough to have their driver, Mr. Wu, at our disposal and we were grateful to have the luxury, especially with only a day to explore this city of almost 20 million.
Mr. Wu was waiting for us at the port and took us to the French Concession. We walked for an hour and then were whisked off to Dave's home. There we met Joseph (10), Katherine (7) and Michael (3). It was great to see Chris, Dave's wife, whom I hadn't seen since I lived in Bloomington, Indiana. They were all gracious guests and we had a lovely time catching up and learning about one another. Had dinner with an American flavor (that we were craving) and thoroughly enjoyed the large, comfy bed and freshly-made coffee in the morning - the little things you miss so much at times.
The second day we were sent off by Chris with chocolate croissants (how'd she know these are our favorite?!?). Mr. Wu drove us to Renmin (People's) Square. We attempted to check out the Shanghai Museum but at 9:30am on a Tuesday we found ourselves in line behind what must have been six school groups and without the patience to wait. Instead, we wandered over to the Shanghai Art Museum and enjoyed their Biennial exhibit, complete with some modern reflections on Shanghai's international flare that made your head spin.
We decided to walk to the Bund, an area along the Huangpu River and in the heart of downtown Shanghai. We bought a propaganda poster replica on the street (couldn't resist the farmer on a tractor with his little red book raised!) and met 5 university students visiting Shanghai. They invited us to a tea ceremony and before we knew it we were in a little room with a spread of beautiful teas from around China. We were treated to an explanation of the various medicinal benefits of each variety and bought some Jasmine tea to take with us. Our new friends were very excited to practice their English and to learn more about us and our culture. They were very funny and sweet and we all exchanged email addresses and invitations to visit each other's country. Very fun.
Spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the shopping district, grabbed some lunch and ran into some friends. Found Mr. Wu and got a ride back to the ship.
Shipboard life is in full swing again as everyone is back on board and busy with classes and planning for Japan in addition to grieving the loss of Kurt Leswing. We had a community-wide meeting last night to discuss the details of Kurt's death and to allow people a space to process and grieve. It's been an interesting and touching experience, compounded in ways that are unique to this small yet fast-paced living community. There are a group of individuals preparing a memorial ceremony for Kurt and his parents are aware of these efforts.
I leave you with Kurt's latest favorite quote, spoken by our special guest Desmond Tutu and shared with us by Kurt's parents:
"Take the anger from your hearts.
Wipe the tears from God's eyes.
And live a life of love."
Pictures of Shanghai are up: www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Thanks, Woody, for the note and Shanghai suggestions.
Elyse - we received another packet of letters and are attempting to send responses from Yokohama.
With love and appreciation for you all,
heather ;)
Our time in Shanghai was very brief, totally just about 24 hours ashore. Between our weather delay in arriving and the involved immigration process, we did not set foot on land until 3pm on the 10th and did not pull away until almost 11pm the following day. A quick, surreal stop to say the least.
The good news is that we connected with my cousin, David Ricks, and his family. They have just moved to Shanghai this past summer and are settling into life in the PRC. We were lucky enough to have their driver, Mr. Wu, at our disposal and we were grateful to have the luxury, especially with only a day to explore this city of almost 20 million.
Mr. Wu was waiting for us at the port and took us to the French Concession. We walked for an hour and then were whisked off to Dave's home. There we met Joseph (10), Katherine (7) and Michael (3). It was great to see Chris, Dave's wife, whom I hadn't seen since I lived in Bloomington, Indiana. They were all gracious guests and we had a lovely time catching up and learning about one another. Had dinner with an American flavor (that we were craving) and thoroughly enjoyed the large, comfy bed and freshly-made coffee in the morning - the little things you miss so much at times.
The second day we were sent off by Chris with chocolate croissants (how'd she know these are our favorite?!?). Mr. Wu drove us to Renmin (People's) Square. We attempted to check out the Shanghai Museum but at 9:30am on a Tuesday we found ourselves in line behind what must have been six school groups and without the patience to wait. Instead, we wandered over to the Shanghai Art Museum and enjoyed their Biennial exhibit, complete with some modern reflections on Shanghai's international flare that made your head spin.
We decided to walk to the Bund, an area along the Huangpu River and in the heart of downtown Shanghai. We bought a propaganda poster replica on the street (couldn't resist the farmer on a tractor with his little red book raised!) and met 5 university students visiting Shanghai. They invited us to a tea ceremony and before we knew it we were in a little room with a spread of beautiful teas from around China. We were treated to an explanation of the various medicinal benefits of each variety and bought some Jasmine tea to take with us. Our new friends were very excited to practice their English and to learn more about us and our culture. They were very funny and sweet and we all exchanged email addresses and invitations to visit each other's country. Very fun.
Spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the shopping district, grabbed some lunch and ran into some friends. Found Mr. Wu and got a ride back to the ship.
Shipboard life is in full swing again as everyone is back on board and busy with classes and planning for Japan in addition to grieving the loss of Kurt Leswing. We had a community-wide meeting last night to discuss the details of Kurt's death and to allow people a space to process and grieve. It's been an interesting and touching experience, compounded in ways that are unique to this small yet fast-paced living community. There are a group of individuals preparing a memorial ceremony for Kurt and his parents are aware of these efforts.
I leave you with Kurt's latest favorite quote, spoken by our special guest Desmond Tutu and shared with us by Kurt's parents:
"Take the anger from your hearts.
Wipe the tears from God's eyes.
And live a life of love."
Pictures of Shanghai are up: www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Thanks, Woody, for the note and Shanghai suggestions.
Elyse - we received another packet of letters and are attempting to send responses from Yokohama.
With love and appreciation for you all,
heather ;)
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Hong Kong
We're sailing up the Shanghai, China River as I reflect, now on a brief trip to Hong Kong. Heather and I had a fine time there, seeing the city from it's high points and from the underground subway. We saw it's largest, seated, outdoor bronze Buddha statue and it's mix of ancient, colonial and very cosmopolitan architecture in 'Central' (downtown). We walked, smelled, tasted and viewed what we could in 36 hours.
It was a great pleasure to speak for some time with family in Illinois for a while on the early morning of November 7th, local time. After some sleep and sightseeing on the 7th, Heather and I returned to the ship about 5pm and soon learned of the death of a current student, Kurt Leswing, of Milwaukee and the UW/Madison campus. Kurt was 21. He was struck by a vehicle in Hong Kong and died shortly thereafter on the early morning of Nov. 7th.
The outpouring of sympathy and prayers are much appreciated in this challenging time for Kurt's family, friends and the shipboard community. Thank you all for sending your thoughts and prayers from Illinois and beyond. Information can be found on the Semester at Sea website (www.semesteratsea.org). The staff and faculty on the ship have been working hard to help the community make sense of this tragic event. I'm not yet sure what to say, but it's a sad event.
More later,
Bill
It was a great pleasure to speak for some time with family in Illinois for a while on the early morning of November 7th, local time. After some sleep and sightseeing on the 7th, Heather and I returned to the ship about 5pm and soon learned of the death of a current student, Kurt Leswing, of Milwaukee and the UW/Madison campus. Kurt was 21. He was struck by a vehicle in Hong Kong and died shortly thereafter on the early morning of Nov. 7th.
The outpouring of sympathy and prayers are much appreciated in this challenging time for Kurt's family, friends and the shipboard community. Thank you all for sending your thoughts and prayers from Illinois and beyond. Information can be found on the Semester at Sea website (www.semesteratsea.org). The staff and faculty on the ship have been working hard to help the community make sense of this tragic event. I'm not yet sure what to say, but it's a sad event.
More later,
Bill
*Reminder about change for Costa Rica port address
Hello!
Our snail mailing address for Costa Rica has changed. Please note the change below and thanks in advance for writing! ;)
Port #12
William Heinrich & Heather Ricks
C/O MV Explorer
December 7, 2008
SCAN S.A. / ILG LOGISTICS
Edificio ILG Logistics
200 Mts Norte de Rotonda de Paso Ancho
PO Box 1242-1007
Centro Colon, San Jose, COSTA RICA
Our snail mailing address for Costa Rica has changed. Please note the change below and thanks in advance for writing! ;)
Port #12
William Heinrich & Heather Ricks
C/O MV Explorer
December 7, 2008
SCAN S.A. / ILG LOGISTICS
Edificio ILG Logistics
200 Mts Norte de Rotonda de Paso Ancho
PO Box 1242-1007
Centro Colon, San Jose, COSTA RICA
Friday, November 7, 2008
Photos from Viet Nam & Hong Kong
Forgot to mention - photos are up from Viet Nam & Hong Kong.
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Bicycling through Viet Nam
We have just pulled into the port in Hong Kong - it's truly amazing here with all the massive skyscrapers and boats. It looks like Manhattan but on all sides surrounding us.
We have yet to write about our time in Viet Nam - these ports are happening so quickly right now! We had a wonderful time in our short time there. The first two days we spent in Ho Chi Minh City, eating our way through the area and exploring all the nooks and crannies. We spent some time at the War Remnants Museum which was a very powerful reminder of our presence in Southeast Asia some 30 years ago. It forced me to reflect on our current presence in the Middle East with sadness and regret. I understand that the issues and reasons for war are very complex but the physical harm to the people and landscape seems so simplistically horrific when you view the aftermath.
Our three days in the Mekong Delta were amazing. We traveled by car for a few hours before hopping onto a large boat and floating across the river to a small village factory that makes coconut candy. From there we visited a home and had fresh fruit and tea. We paddled small boats through a little outlet and came upon a half dozen men walking the river in search of shrimp. From there we were taken to our bicycles and rode for about 2 hours along a riverside path. We were greeted continuously by hordes of small children and adults who lived in the neighborhoods. So fun!!
We stayed at a guesthouse that night in Ving Thou that sat right over the river edge. The next morning we rode bikes for another 2-3 hours, stopping for tea and to visit a terracotta brick facility. We rode through rice fields and along dikes between villages. It was incredibly beautiful. We finished our ride in a monsoon downpour and, after drying off and changing clothes, stopped for a delicious lunch. That evening we stayed in a hotel in Can Tho and enjoyed the best meal at a restaurant called Nam Bo. Our guide, Hoan, took us to a dancehall where we swung ourselves across the floor for a short time - the music was very loud and we only lasted about 45 minutes.
Our final day included another boat ride through the largest floating market in the Mekong Delta and then to another home to taste snake wine and banana wine and to visit a rice paper-making facility. Our final stop took us to our bicycles and our last ride was about 10K. We drove back to the ship after lunch and ran a few errands before calling it a night.
I found the food to be incredible in Viet Nam and the local people so friendly and gracious. It was at times very stressful to walk the streets as the traffic does not stop!! But, after a few days, we were cruising about with more confidence and following the locals. Fun times!
Post U.S. election sidenote:
I am still flying high from yesterday's election in the US. Wow! We were able to watch the coverage live on the Internet. It was noon our time when the polls closed on the west coast. I have to say that I cried so much with tears of joy and relief that I took an hour and a half nap later in the day! It was a very emotional experience on the ship with many of us crammed into our Student Union to watch and listen to any news we were able to access. We all listened to McCain's concession speech and were able to watch the festivities in Grant Park. Oh I wish I could have been there in Chicago! Watching and listening to Obama's speech, I was moved by his humility, his grace and his love for our country combined with his concern for our role in the world. I am grateful that we may again act as a country that is part of a larger world picture.
Hope you are all well.
Thanks Woody, Rebecca, Jeanne and Joy/Joe for your letters! And to everyone for your emails!!
More from China in a few days.
Much love,
heather ;)
************
From Bill
Vietnam on to Hong Kong
5th November 2008. It is during the play-by play election coverage that I reflect on a visit to Vietnam, once a former site of conflict and turmoil for Americans, now a place of growth and development by its own people, under its own government, for better or worse.
Heather and I were delighted to join a group of fellow shipmates taking a bicycle tour of the Mekong Delta in the south of Vietnam. This area is highly traversed by both natural and man made waterways, so getting around by little boats is a must. Although, there are big boats too, even some shallow barges carrying dredged sand and other natural resources. All the waterways are lined by mud or dirt sidewalks, for many kilometers in all directions. Peoples houses are situated in flood plains and many people are able to grow fruit trees and rice in their own little ‘yards.’ Each yard is partially under water nearly all year. At this time, the monsoon season, the rain fills up the yards. In the rest of the year, diverted canal water fills the rice patties.
We saw the makings of coconut candy, rice noodles, rice wine, banana wine, snake wine, terra cotta brick firing, and a floating fruit market, on a river. Heather aptly noted that a surreal feeling follows when you find yourself literally in a postcard…to be both present and outside of yourself watching at the same time…believing what you see and not seeing what you believe anymore.
Earlier in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City), we visited the War Remnants Museum. This museum chronicled, from a decidedly ‘unified Vietnamese’ perspective, the “acts and crimes” of war perpetuated by French and American occupiers. Present were actual tanks, artillery guns, fighter and recon planes, all arrays of machine guns, grenade launchers, bazookas, mines, bombs and bomblets, agent orange and pieces of aB-52 bomber shot down. Accompanying the display were text in Vietnamese, French and English about the intended design and actual use and outcome of each weapon. This experience made me feel badly for a number of reasons, but upon further reflection, I feel a deep sympathy for the men and women who served in the war in Vietnam. For those who gave their lives and those whose lives were changed by their fathers and mothers experiences. I thank you for fighting hard. I now know other fights were happening, within people’s consciences and within the U.S.
This reminds me of the reason for elections and voting and knowing why. I don’t think I know all the answers, but I’m glad we’re talking about it.
It is now the 6th of November in Hong Kong and a new president elect has made U.S. history and a story in the world. Hope arises quickly as news travels fast. An unpopular and needlessly continuing war has an end in sight. The vertical landscape of Hong Kong awaits the pitter patter of U.S. feet and the shuffle of U.S. dollars as the shipboard community anxiously prepares to disembark.
We have yet to write about our time in Viet Nam - these ports are happening so quickly right now! We had a wonderful time in our short time there. The first two days we spent in Ho Chi Minh City, eating our way through the area and exploring all the nooks and crannies. We spent some time at the War Remnants Museum which was a very powerful reminder of our presence in Southeast Asia some 30 years ago. It forced me to reflect on our current presence in the Middle East with sadness and regret. I understand that the issues and reasons for war are very complex but the physical harm to the people and landscape seems so simplistically horrific when you view the aftermath.
Our three days in the Mekong Delta were amazing. We traveled by car for a few hours before hopping onto a large boat and floating across the river to a small village factory that makes coconut candy. From there we visited a home and had fresh fruit and tea. We paddled small boats through a little outlet and came upon a half dozen men walking the river in search of shrimp. From there we were taken to our bicycles and rode for about 2 hours along a riverside path. We were greeted continuously by hordes of small children and adults who lived in the neighborhoods. So fun!!
We stayed at a guesthouse that night in Ving Thou that sat right over the river edge. The next morning we rode bikes for another 2-3 hours, stopping for tea and to visit a terracotta brick facility. We rode through rice fields and along dikes between villages. It was incredibly beautiful. We finished our ride in a monsoon downpour and, after drying off and changing clothes, stopped for a delicious lunch. That evening we stayed in a hotel in Can Tho and enjoyed the best meal at a restaurant called Nam Bo. Our guide, Hoan, took us to a dancehall where we swung ourselves across the floor for a short time - the music was very loud and we only lasted about 45 minutes.
Our final day included another boat ride through the largest floating market in the Mekong Delta and then to another home to taste snake wine and banana wine and to visit a rice paper-making facility. Our final stop took us to our bicycles and our last ride was about 10K. We drove back to the ship after lunch and ran a few errands before calling it a night.
I found the food to be incredible in Viet Nam and the local people so friendly and gracious. It was at times very stressful to walk the streets as the traffic does not stop!! But, after a few days, we were cruising about with more confidence and following the locals. Fun times!
Post U.S. election sidenote:
I am still flying high from yesterday's election in the US. Wow! We were able to watch the coverage live on the Internet. It was noon our time when the polls closed on the west coast. I have to say that I cried so much with tears of joy and relief that I took an hour and a half nap later in the day! It was a very emotional experience on the ship with many of us crammed into our Student Union to watch and listen to any news we were able to access. We all listened to McCain's concession speech and were able to watch the festivities in Grant Park. Oh I wish I could have been there in Chicago! Watching and listening to Obama's speech, I was moved by his humility, his grace and his love for our country combined with his concern for our role in the world. I am grateful that we may again act as a country that is part of a larger world picture.
Hope you are all well.
Thanks Woody, Rebecca, Jeanne and Joy/Joe for your letters! And to everyone for your emails!!
More from China in a few days.
Much love,
heather ;)
************
From Bill
Vietnam on to Hong Kong
5th November 2008. It is during the play-by play election coverage that I reflect on a visit to Vietnam, once a former site of conflict and turmoil for Americans, now a place of growth and development by its own people, under its own government, for better or worse.
Heather and I were delighted to join a group of fellow shipmates taking a bicycle tour of the Mekong Delta in the south of Vietnam. This area is highly traversed by both natural and man made waterways, so getting around by little boats is a must. Although, there are big boats too, even some shallow barges carrying dredged sand and other natural resources. All the waterways are lined by mud or dirt sidewalks, for many kilometers in all directions. Peoples houses are situated in flood plains and many people are able to grow fruit trees and rice in their own little ‘yards.’ Each yard is partially under water nearly all year. At this time, the monsoon season, the rain fills up the yards. In the rest of the year, diverted canal water fills the rice patties.
We saw the makings of coconut candy, rice noodles, rice wine, banana wine, snake wine, terra cotta brick firing, and a floating fruit market, on a river. Heather aptly noted that a surreal feeling follows when you find yourself literally in a postcard…to be both present and outside of yourself watching at the same time…believing what you see and not seeing what you believe anymore.
Earlier in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City), we visited the War Remnants Museum. This museum chronicled, from a decidedly ‘unified Vietnamese’ perspective, the “acts and crimes” of war perpetuated by French and American occupiers. Present were actual tanks, artillery guns, fighter and recon planes, all arrays of machine guns, grenade launchers, bazookas, mines, bombs and bomblets, agent orange and pieces of aB-52 bomber shot down. Accompanying the display were text in Vietnamese, French and English about the intended design and actual use and outcome of each weapon. This experience made me feel badly for a number of reasons, but upon further reflection, I feel a deep sympathy for the men and women who served in the war in Vietnam. For those who gave their lives and those whose lives were changed by their fathers and mothers experiences. I thank you for fighting hard. I now know other fights were happening, within people’s consciences and within the U.S.
This reminds me of the reason for elections and voting and knowing why. I don’t think I know all the answers, but I’m glad we’re talking about it.
It is now the 6th of November in Hong Kong and a new president elect has made U.S. history and a story in the world. Hope arises quickly as news travels fast. An unpopular and needlessly continuing war has an end in sight. The vertical landscape of Hong Kong awaits the pitter patter of U.S. feet and the shuffle of U.S. dollars as the shipboard community anxiously prepares to disembark.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)