Thoughts on the South China Sea

10/28/08

We spent the day yesterday on the ship while refueling in the harbor outside Singapore, a small island/nation on the south end of the Thai peninsula. Singapore actually looks like it would be part of peninsular Malaysia, but, like Hong Kong or the Vatican, it exists as it's own city-state. It was hot and muggy and stinky like bunker fuel and trash in the water. To get to Singapore, we had to pass through a relatively narrow shipping channel called the Straits of Malacca. This space in the world has a reputation for pirate attacks as it's a bit of a bottle neck for east-west shipping. We learned that 25% of the worlds oil is shipped through this one narrow channel. This makes for easy pickings for an ambitious and well armed modern pirate. An average tanker has a crew of about 15 people, so an organized pirate attack could easily subdue the people and take a ship. Our crew was on watch for the last few days, hatchets in hand ready to chop off any ropes, in contact with a private security firm for intel and we even had a Malaysian Navy gun boat escort in and out of Singapore harbor. No small task to organize.

We were no worse for the wear. Up through about 2005, the Malacca area experienced about 200 pirate attacks per year. Then the Singapore, Thai and Malaysian Navies got together to make the waters safe for travel and commerce. Attacks now average 12 per year thanks to these international efforts. A few of us on the ship noticed several F-16A fighters doing overflights. Most likely these are Malaysian aircraft. I'm glad for the vigilance. My friend Angie paraphrased the author George Orwell noting "I, myself, am a pacifist, but I sleep well at night knowing that brave men are willing to do violence to protect me."

We're headed north to Saigon, officially Ho Chi Minh City, named affectionately for 'Uncle Ho.' Just like with many stories in the world, there are more than two sides. Vietnam was part of China for 1000 years up through the 19th century when Japan had a foot hold. In about 1850, the French came in to colonize and shortly after the French, the American occupation began. For better or worse, there is a sense of nationalism and unity that is instilled, after a purge in the 70's, in the Vietnamese people present for having pushed through all this occupation. We've learned that Vietnam has opened up economically and is more or less friendly to tourists (and their dollars). Aside from petty problems expected while travelling, I'm really looking forward to this visit. Heather has organized a 3 day tour of the Mekong Delta area, so we're beefed up (and side-affected) on the anti-Malarial meds. I'm hoping to see some of the Cu Chi (city) tunnels that were used during the wartime period (1956-1977). I hear that some of the tunnels have been excavated to accommodate larger westerners:) phew.

Looking back a few days I feel like the visit to the country of Malaysia was a nice break between India and Vietnam. As I mentioned before, India was a mad house of stimuli, highly visceral in the sights, smells, air, noise, pace and smiles...India gets into your skin, you breath it's diesel fumes, you smell it's detrius, you taste the best and unique flavors of the food. By comparison, Malyasia is a resort town. There is some dirt and grime if you look for it, but the taxi's and busses are safe and efficient, the post office is safe and efficient, the food on the street is safe and efficient, etc. You get the picture. The most dangerous thing was not stepping into the 2 foot deep uncovered stormwater drains on the sides of the streets. I went into Malaysia with my guard up, I was leaning into another galestorm of stimuli and when we arrived, I was thrown off balance by the ease with which we were able to get around, find food and even interact with people on the street. I'm happy for the respite.

Heather and I are learning a lot about each other on this voyage too. Thanks to Mom and Dad for your words of encouragment and your prayers. The prayers help in a 9'x14' cabin, (including the bathroom). My prayers are with you all as you continue to work and live and plan and play and learn. Home is becoming a concept more than a place and I'm glad we can at least email to keep in touch. I'm really looking forward to our visits home in December.