First and Foremost, Let me (and Heather) take this special day to wish my mom, Viv, a very happy 29th birthday!!!! October 4th is always a happy day because it’s a time to celebrate mom (and to know that as a student affairs guy, most of the hardest work has just been done), either way, Mom, I hope yours is a truly happy birthday!
We’re sailing north and east now, two days out of Capetown and we can still see the coastline as we move past pods of southern Bottlenose dolphins, southern Right whales and even some Humpback whales.
The southern Right whales are in the coastal areas of Capetown and the whole S. African Coast. They are named such because in their overhunting, whalers noticed that these whales yielded lots of blubber to be processed and, conveniently, didn't sink when they were harpooned...unlucky for them. Speaking of raw fish, Heather and I had a great sushi dinner at a swanky joint, more reminiscent of Manhattan than Africa, called Beluga. A nice host named Lawerence took a liking to me and found us a table despite our lack of reservation (or booking). The sushi made me think of the west coast of our own continent and all the good fish we enjoy. Then I got to missing friends and family everywhere and really not looking forward to the 11 day passage to Chennai.
But I have the fond memories of this trip to the continent of Africa. These countries (Namibia and South Africa) have much in common and really give me pause when I think of the disparities present in the walking life of the city. I should say that in the 4 years since my last visit to Capetown, I have noticed on this trip a much more visible African middle class of workers and professionals. The billboard advertising is reflecting that as well with more upscale products marketed directly to African individuals. There is still plenty of visible racism, but many of the institutions are working hard to make their places of work and employment inclusive in number and culture.
Heather and I had a great hike up Table mountain (1084 m), Lion's Head peak (780 m) and Signal Hill (304 m) all on Saturday last week. These three peaks form a ridge line from the coast up to the top of Table mountain and really make for a dramatic view from the ocean or the summit. We cheated our way down on the gondola/cable car, complete with a rotating floor for 360 degree views on the 4 minute ride down to the base.
Today on the water, I noticed the color had changed from a gray/green of the Atlantic to a deep midnight blue of the Indian Ocean. Our first night out of Capetown had us literally bouncing around as we crossed the line (on the map) where the two oceans actually come together. I'm not sure if there is a giant mythical whirlpool there, but if there was, our ship's Captain managed to avoid it and the Siren's song of Antarctica to the very far south.
Sunday and Monday last week found Heather and I dodging raindrops and making our way into the Waterkant neighborhood for a fantastic coffee, served with hot milk (which, when you add sugar and hot milk slowly, the coffee turns from slightly bitter to quite sweet and stays hot the whole time...mmm). We also found our way into some delicious chocolate filled crossiants at the same french style cafe, Le Petit Tart.
A trip on the train south from Capetown took us and our friend, Molly the Librarian, on a fun excursion to the beach town of Muizenberg for a few hours of (sharky?) wave surfing on a rented board in a red and yellow clown suit, er, wetsuit. We saw our first Right whales on the train south further down to Kalk Bay for lunch at the Che Guevara inspired "Cape to Cuba." We also saw two sharks poke their dorsal fins out of the water. I'm glad I didn't see them while surfing. Our stop in the town of Simonstown had us walking to a Tibetean Tea house for the healthiest rice-krispy treat ever and then to Boulders beach for a view of the jackass penguins and their afternoon beach landing. They float in flocks toward the beach then speed up like miniature flying dolphins until they find shallow water enough that they can run up the rocks with their kneeless legs for a chance to shake off the water and puff their feathers for the night. Such a sight.
There was walking all over the city, and a trip to a winery and a university in Stellenbosch.
Now, we're watching the debates between McCain and Obama and tomorrow the debates between Biden and Palin. For all we see usually see on TV, I think we should take a play out of Canada's electoral book. Stephen Harper, the current prime minister of Canada is up for reelection in 9 days! The Canadians heard about this only yesterday! So, this means that the Canadians will have campaigned and elected a new leader in less than 2 weeks while United States campaigns drag on for literally two years at a time...ugh. OH CANADA:) good for you. I'm still coming happily back to the US, Uncle Charlie, but I could do without all the analysis of the election.:)
Finally, I have to say that I'm looking forward to Chennai, India. I think we'll buy a phrase book. The characters are way out of my league.
Enjoy this month of bonfires, warm days, soft sunsets and good surf where ever you find yourself.
Much Love,
Bill
1 comment:
Bill and Heather got it Oh So Right: Bill's Mom Viv is 29 again, and very very happy too!!! Glad it's ssuch a great trip!!!
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