Pics are up from Namibia -
http://heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Thursday, September 25, 2008
This Just In: Namibian Winds Blow Sand into my Ear Canal
Yes, folks, Namibia is a place of desert and winds. Lots of sand moved around to form huge dunes and to create harsh environments for plants like the unique Welwitschia Plant (a giant, strap-like sprawl). The Hererro people (and numerous other ethnic groups) managed to use the land for centuries as cattle herders before the area of present-day Namibia was coloniz(s)ed by Dutch, British, German and finally South African governments. Visitors can see influence of the German occupation (1885-1915) in the town of Swakopmund, north of Walvis Bay, in both the architecture and the graveyards. Contrasts become thematic in my travels around the areas of Coastal Namibia. I didn’t make it into the capital, Windhoek, but I’m sure it is much different than the coastal environments.
Heather and I arrived and woke up early to watch as our ship approached its landing in Walvis Bay last Friday. We didn’t get to see much as the fog was thick, one of the reasons for its nick name, the “Skeleton Coast.” And for good reason, it only took a short taxi ride to see an actual, fairly recent shipwreck. I read a local newspaper and saw a report of one ship sinking while an attempt was being made to raise another shipwreck from the depths. Regardless, there wasn’t much to see on the way into port and thankfully, our Captain isn’t color blind because the red and green buoys were already obscured by the fog.
The local dock workers were cheering for us upon arrival, but they might have been laughing too. What they knew (and we soon found out) was that the town center was about a mile away through the Port Authority Checkpoint, a gated and fairly secure entry way. Only taxi’s with certain licenses could enter the port gate, about ¾ of a mile away from the ship. Being on a limited budget, Heather and I walked that distance most of the time. In the process, we got to see up close the workings of the Trans Namib Railway.
The weather was comfortable, much like Santa Cruz in the late spring. It was windy and a bit cool, overcast in the morning followed by sun in the afternoon on most days in port. Walvis Bay itself has a legacy of apartheid government in Namibia until 1990, when the country gained it’s independence from South Africa. The valuable deep-sea port at Walvis Bay (the only one between South Africa and Angola), was actually the reason that South Africa did not relinquish Walvis Bay back to Namibia until 1994. The city is laid out a bit sparsely, with concrete and stucco homes and buildings, no more than 2-3 stories high. The highest point in town is the Catholic Church steeple (Mass was celebrated in English and Portuguese). The highest point around the entire area is the huge oil rig at the port.
There was lots of really good food there too…in fact, Crazy Mama’s is a quaint little joint that had some of the best pizza in Namibia, according to our guidebook. I can confirm that the pizza was, in fact, quite good
One other very interesting part of my trip was a visit to a cemetery in the town of Swakopmund, about 20km north of Walvis Bay. I went with the historian and inter-port lecturer, Mohammed Adhikari, from the University of Cape Town, to visit the Hererro graves from a 1906 genocide by the German Army. The German General at the time was quite proud of this deed, according to what little has been written. What is easy to see are about 3000+ unmarked graves of the Hererro people interned and then murdered at the site. I was moved to tears at this place. The Hererro people were subject to the vacillating weather of the coast, malnutrition and violence from 1904-1906 and harassment from the German government before and after.
The graves are in the property of the current cemetery, which looks much like other modern cemeteries (including some Heinrich families). The site is now being marked, not individually, but in some significant ways. The current German government has apologized for the atrocities and is in the process of funding and building five memorial markers designed by Namibians to remember the area for future generations. The first marker has been installed. It’s a large stone with unfinished edges and a finished surface with text, about eight feet tall, A 9 foot cinderblock wall has been built to surround the whole site and keep out the many ATV drivers who frequent the desert to the south. Private homes have been built literally up to the wall on the north side and between the sounds of new construction near the east side, I could hear school children playing at recess. The community is literally surrounding this site and perhaps the place will look different in a few more years. Right now, the unmarked graves are easy to identify mounds in the sand. As many historians are uncovering smaller scale genocides, sociologists and anthropologists are coming up with explanations for them. These acts aren’t confined to small, colonial governments, but are more wide spread than we’d like to admit (think native Americans circa 1815 and the doctrine of Manifest Destiny).
My trip ended with a really boring tour of the Namibian Police station in Walvis Bay, but that’s another story for another time
Keep well and thanks for your letters and emails. Its’ great to hear from you all!!!
Bill
From Heather:
Bill summed up a great deal of our 5 days in Namibia. It's so extremely difficult to capture the feel of an entire country as large as Namibia - it's roughly twice the size of California. The people we met of all backgrounds were extremely kind and helpful, minus a few swindling taxi drivers. The men in the markets, selling their wares, were fun to talk with - I met many folks who asked about our presidential election, always wondering what I think of Obama. They always wanted to know where I came from and facts about my family. The game of haggling for prices got easier as I gained more practice. I have a set of ornaments for our holiday tree made from a local nut and carved with our names that will always make us smile as we recall the story of buying them on the street.
I wish we had been able to get into the dessert - those that went said they really enjoyed the sunsets. Our time was quiet and reflective in many ways. I was very sad to pull away from the port two nights ago....a feeling of loss that I can't yet explain. I'm very happy that my feet will again touch African soil tomorrow. Our time was too short for such a big continent. I look forward to more eye-opening sites and sounds. As many of you know, I am a slow-processor so I can already tell that this trip, in general, will speak to me in various ways for days to come. For now, I will download some photos.
Thank you Woody, Joy & Mary Hackman for the notes and letters!!! So great to hear from you. I hope Taye is enjoying his postcards, Mare.
Much love,
heather ;)
Heather and I arrived and woke up early to watch as our ship approached its landing in Walvis Bay last Friday. We didn’t get to see much as the fog was thick, one of the reasons for its nick name, the “Skeleton Coast.” And for good reason, it only took a short taxi ride to see an actual, fairly recent shipwreck. I read a local newspaper and saw a report of one ship sinking while an attempt was being made to raise another shipwreck from the depths. Regardless, there wasn’t much to see on the way into port and thankfully, our Captain isn’t color blind because the red and green buoys were already obscured by the fog.
The local dock workers were cheering for us upon arrival, but they might have been laughing too. What they knew (and we soon found out) was that the town center was about a mile away through the Port Authority Checkpoint, a gated and fairly secure entry way. Only taxi’s with certain licenses could enter the port gate, about ¾ of a mile away from the ship. Being on a limited budget, Heather and I walked that distance most of the time. In the process, we got to see up close the workings of the Trans Namib Railway.
The weather was comfortable, much like Santa Cruz in the late spring. It was windy and a bit cool, overcast in the morning followed by sun in the afternoon on most days in port. Walvis Bay itself has a legacy of apartheid government in Namibia until 1990, when the country gained it’s independence from South Africa. The valuable deep-sea port at Walvis Bay (the only one between South Africa and Angola), was actually the reason that South Africa did not relinquish Walvis Bay back to Namibia until 1994. The city is laid out a bit sparsely, with concrete and stucco homes and buildings, no more than 2-3 stories high. The highest point in town is the Catholic Church steeple (Mass was celebrated in English and Portuguese). The highest point around the entire area is the huge oil rig at the port.
There was lots of really good food there too…in fact, Crazy Mama’s is a quaint little joint that had some of the best pizza in Namibia, according to our guidebook. I can confirm that the pizza was, in fact, quite good
One other very interesting part of my trip was a visit to a cemetery in the town of Swakopmund, about 20km north of Walvis Bay. I went with the historian and inter-port lecturer, Mohammed Adhikari, from the University of Cape Town, to visit the Hererro graves from a 1906 genocide by the German Army. The German General at the time was quite proud of this deed, according to what little has been written. What is easy to see are about 3000+ unmarked graves of the Hererro people interned and then murdered at the site. I was moved to tears at this place. The Hererro people were subject to the vacillating weather of the coast, malnutrition and violence from 1904-1906 and harassment from the German government before and after.
The graves are in the property of the current cemetery, which looks much like other modern cemeteries (including some Heinrich families). The site is now being marked, not individually, but in some significant ways. The current German government has apologized for the atrocities and is in the process of funding and building five memorial markers designed by Namibians to remember the area for future generations. The first marker has been installed. It’s a large stone with unfinished edges and a finished surface with text, about eight feet tall, A 9 foot cinderblock wall has been built to surround the whole site and keep out the many ATV drivers who frequent the desert to the south. Private homes have been built literally up to the wall on the north side and between the sounds of new construction near the east side, I could hear school children playing at recess. The community is literally surrounding this site and perhaps the place will look different in a few more years. Right now, the unmarked graves are easy to identify mounds in the sand. As many historians are uncovering smaller scale genocides, sociologists and anthropologists are coming up with explanations for them. These acts aren’t confined to small, colonial governments, but are more wide spread than we’d like to admit (think native Americans circa 1815 and the doctrine of Manifest Destiny).
My trip ended with a really boring tour of the Namibian Police station in Walvis Bay, but that’s another story for another time
Keep well and thanks for your letters and emails. Its’ great to hear from you all!!!
Bill
From Heather:
Bill summed up a great deal of our 5 days in Namibia. It's so extremely difficult to capture the feel of an entire country as large as Namibia - it's roughly twice the size of California. The people we met of all backgrounds were extremely kind and helpful, minus a few swindling taxi drivers. The men in the markets, selling their wares, were fun to talk with - I met many folks who asked about our presidential election, always wondering what I think of Obama. They always wanted to know where I came from and facts about my family. The game of haggling for prices got easier as I gained more practice. I have a set of ornaments for our holiday tree made from a local nut and carved with our names that will always make us smile as we recall the story of buying them on the street.
I wish we had been able to get into the dessert - those that went said they really enjoyed the sunsets. Our time was quiet and reflective in many ways. I was very sad to pull away from the port two nights ago....a feeling of loss that I can't yet explain. I'm very happy that my feet will again touch African soil tomorrow. Our time was too short for such a big continent. I look forward to more eye-opening sites and sounds. As many of you know, I am a slow-processor so I can already tell that this trip, in general, will speak to me in various ways for days to come. For now, I will download some photos.
Thank you Woody, Joy & Mary Hackman for the notes and letters!!! So great to hear from you. I hope Taye is enjoying his postcards, Mare.
Much love,
heather ;)
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Atlantic Reflections
We're 25 days into this endeavor! It feels more like 6 months, but the daily ship life is mellowing out, so I'm finding time to do more emails. The daily schedule is divided up into "A" and "B" days. The schedules are different, but all take place regardless of the day or date of the week. So we have certain things to do on A days and other certain things on B days. As student issues tend to be a bit scattered, we have meetings EVERYday that we're at sea. They tend to run a bit long.
I'm in charge of Sea Olympics (like Block Party), which is on October 9th. We're already announcing the events tonight because we have two ports to visit between now and then. In port, the whole of ship-life changes and then stalls out while everyone goes on a bit of a traveling vacation...more ambiguity, more new things, more unknowns about how and when and where and trying to negotiate simple tasks like finding the bathroom and getting into a taxi and not getting ripped off because I don't understand how to say 'twenty' or 'thirty' or whatever number in Portuguese or Zulu or Bantu.
On the ship we have to highly regulate the amount and nature of alcohol use on the ship for the students. It's really punitive, but from a health and safety standpoint, we really don't have the medical support on ship to keep the drunks from hurting themselves or others. As it is, students are allowed to purchase up to 6 drinks per night. They understand the concepts, and most individuals tell us they wouldn't over drink, but still, there is a low level of trust for a mostly U.S. population of college students. We found some students still sneaked on bottles of booze and come to dinner drunk or come to an evening event drunk. There are lots of ways to ‘escape’ and most students don't even bother with the alcohol, but all in all, it's a pain in my ass because I have to baby-sit the nights when we do serve alcohol. A small price to pay, I suppose.
I’ve heard and noticed too, a very distinct perception of class differences. Many students, especially students of color, have worked hard to obtain this sea-going opportunity and find it especially draining when other students take the same opportunity for granted. This is especially apparent when complaints about the food in the dining room or the frequency of laundry or the “lack” of alcohol are made by students with more means. I see the tensions building when this classism is expressed as racism and rightly interpreted as such. I have individual conversations about this all the time and I hope it’s making some of the whiter and more privileged folks aware of how their language and actions impact others on the ship.
The Middle Passage is being remembered today and reflected upon by the conscious shipboard community. We remember the forced passage across the Atlantic Ocean of many ancestors of our families.
Lately students have complained about the searches of their person, rooms and urine for illegal substances. All participants, myself included, signed an agreement to consent to such searches, so now students are complaining because they don't like the rules. As a result, I'm learning what the cliché means "to run a tight ship." Our captain is a great guy, very nice, but he doesn't F.around. There is no room for dissent when he makes a decision. And his decisions are fair and consistent with stated rules and practice.
On the less crabby side, Heather and I are taking a class together about the religious practices, traditions and cultures of all the places we're visiting. It's really fascinating! We learned about the afro-Brazilian tradition of Candomble (related to VouDun, not to be confused with Haitian Voodoo), where one of 23 spirits inhabit the body of an initiated member. We're learning now about the religious justification and religious resistance to the policy of Apartheid ("Purity") that was the tradition and then rule of law in South Africa from 1910-1994. I'm excited about India and what we'll learn going there!
There is a research scientist from NOAA on board and he is enlisting help in dropping weather and wave buoys off the back of the boat as we cross the Atlantic! It's a really fun process to learn about. These specific buoys are self regulating and submerge to 1500 meters of depth for 9 days at a time, take measurements, drift on the deep currents and record temperature, pressure, etc. They then re-inflate and rise up to the surface to send measurements and movement information to satellites, back to land. This happens for about 6 years of battery life until the thing eventually sinks to the bottom and disintegrates under the pressure. There are about 3500 of these buoys in the oceans currently.
Last night, we crossed the Prime Meridian, at Latitude 21degrees south of the equator, headed east to Namibia! As we get further east, we lose about an hour a day. We've had about six 23hr. days this week. The ship runs on a 24 hr schedule, so sleep seems to suffer for the community...ugh. The ship is a bit rocky lately too. To explain why, I've included a quote from an Oceanography professor on the ship:
"As we approach the coast of Africa, the ship will enter the Benguela current. This current carries cold water to the north. The current is associated with coastal upwelling that brings nutrients to the surface and supports high biological productivity. The waters once supported a rich fishery but over-fishing has greatly reduced catches. The cold water also causes coastal fogs that have contributed to shipwrecks along this "Skeleton Coast" of Namibia."
I hope we fare better:)
Much love and I miss you all,
Bill
I'm in charge of Sea Olympics (like Block Party), which is on October 9th. We're already announcing the events tonight because we have two ports to visit between now and then. In port, the whole of ship-life changes and then stalls out while everyone goes on a bit of a traveling vacation...more ambiguity, more new things, more unknowns about how and when and where and trying to negotiate simple tasks like finding the bathroom and getting into a taxi and not getting ripped off because I don't understand how to say 'twenty' or 'thirty' or whatever number in Portuguese or Zulu or Bantu.
On the ship we have to highly regulate the amount and nature of alcohol use on the ship for the students. It's really punitive, but from a health and safety standpoint, we really don't have the medical support on ship to keep the drunks from hurting themselves or others. As it is, students are allowed to purchase up to 6 drinks per night. They understand the concepts, and most individuals tell us they wouldn't over drink, but still, there is a low level of trust for a mostly U.S. population of college students. We found some students still sneaked on bottles of booze and come to dinner drunk or come to an evening event drunk. There are lots of ways to ‘escape’ and most students don't even bother with the alcohol, but all in all, it's a pain in my ass because I have to baby-sit the nights when we do serve alcohol. A small price to pay, I suppose.
I’ve heard and noticed too, a very distinct perception of class differences. Many students, especially students of color, have worked hard to obtain this sea-going opportunity and find it especially draining when other students take the same opportunity for granted. This is especially apparent when complaints about the food in the dining room or the frequency of laundry or the “lack” of alcohol are made by students with more means. I see the tensions building when this classism is expressed as racism and rightly interpreted as such. I have individual conversations about this all the time and I hope it’s making some of the whiter and more privileged folks aware of how their language and actions impact others on the ship.
The Middle Passage is being remembered today and reflected upon by the conscious shipboard community. We remember the forced passage across the Atlantic Ocean of many ancestors of our families.
Lately students have complained about the searches of their person, rooms and urine for illegal substances. All participants, myself included, signed an agreement to consent to such searches, so now students are complaining because they don't like the rules. As a result, I'm learning what the cliché means "to run a tight ship." Our captain is a great guy, very nice, but he doesn't F.around. There is no room for dissent when he makes a decision. And his decisions are fair and consistent with stated rules and practice.
On the less crabby side, Heather and I are taking a class together about the religious practices, traditions and cultures of all the places we're visiting. It's really fascinating! We learned about the afro-Brazilian tradition of Candomble (related to VouDun, not to be confused with Haitian Voodoo), where one of 23 spirits inhabit the body of an initiated member. We're learning now about the religious justification and religious resistance to the policy of Apartheid ("Purity") that was the tradition and then rule of law in South Africa from 1910-1994. I'm excited about India and what we'll learn going there!
There is a research scientist from NOAA on board and he is enlisting help in dropping weather and wave buoys off the back of the boat as we cross the Atlantic! It's a really fun process to learn about. These specific buoys are self regulating and submerge to 1500 meters of depth for 9 days at a time, take measurements, drift on the deep currents and record temperature, pressure, etc. They then re-inflate and rise up to the surface to send measurements and movement information to satellites, back to land. This happens for about 6 years of battery life until the thing eventually sinks to the bottom and disintegrates under the pressure. There are about 3500 of these buoys in the oceans currently.
Last night, we crossed the Prime Meridian, at Latitude 21degrees south of the equator, headed east to Namibia! As we get further east, we lose about an hour a day. We've had about six 23hr. days this week. The ship runs on a 24 hr schedule, so sleep seems to suffer for the community...ugh. The ship is a bit rocky lately too. To explain why, I've included a quote from an Oceanography professor on the ship:
"As we approach the coast of Africa, the ship will enter the Benguela current. This current carries cold water to the north. The current is associated with coastal upwelling that brings nutrients to the surface and supports high biological productivity. The waters once supported a rich fishery but over-fishing has greatly reduced catches. The cold water also causes coastal fogs that have contributed to shipwrecks along this "Skeleton Coast" of Namibia."
I hope we fare better:)
Much love and I miss you all,
Bill
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Heather's life aboard the ship
Hello all~
Just wanted to share a few thoughts as we wander across the South Atlantic. We will be arriving in Walvis Bay, Namibia in just under 48 hours. Tonight we will have a Cultural Pre-port Meeting for the entire ship - this is a time dedicated to learning about various cultural aspects of the country we are about to visit. We also have a Logistical Pre-port Meeting. The former generally means some information about the local language(s), food, architecture, customs, etc. The latter is more about safety, transportation, etc.
Before arriving in Brasil, we were treated to a personal account of life in Salvador by our Interport student who was from Salvador. Unfortunately, we do not have anyone on the ship from Namibia. It is the first time that SAS is stopping in the country.
We have had an Interport Lecturer from Cape Town with us since leaving Brasil, Mohammed Adhikari - he's been giving guest lectures in classes and I'm hopeful Mohammed will talk in our Pre-port Meetings prior to arriving in Cape Town.
We also have had a post-doctoral scientist, Shane Elipot, with us since Brasil. He works for NOAA and calls Miami home, though he's originally from France. Shane's been dropping research beacons off the back of the ship about every 12 hours - they will monitor and record information such as ocean currents, temperature, etc. Bill was able to attend his lecture explaining the whole process - perhaps he will have a chance to elaborate on the project. Yesterday, a number of students wrote letters to King Neptune on the outside of the box that contains the beacon (all the materials are biodegradable) - it was very cute.
I've been enjoying a great number of lectures and discussions. Just last night Bill and I attended a book talk - the Academic Dean arranged for a series of books for the entire shipboard community to read if they choose to/have the time. We read "Disgrace" by J.M. Coetzee. It was very good and very disturbing - the story of a middle-aged, male Afrikaner set in post-Apartheid South Africa. The author actually won the Nobel Prize for "Waiting for the Barbarians" - his work paints a very painful metaphor for the racial tension and struggle for power in the country. The subsequent discussion was very stimulating - I'm not sure I've ever been in a book club with so many professors! Alas, I miss my Santa Cruz Bookslugs...I hope you are enjoying "Snow" - I haven't found a copy to read but am still looking.
I also just finished "To My Children's Children" by Sindwe Magona. That is the next book we'll discuss on the ship, post our stop in Cape Town. It's an autobiography of a young Xhosa woman growing up in the 1950-60s outside of Cape Town. Very moving. On of our Africanist professor's is leading that discussion. And, finally, I'm reading "Cry the Beloved Country" for the first time.
As you might gather, I am priviledged with a great deal of free time when on the ship. It's a blessing and a curse, I must say. I'm finding life on the ship a bit more difficult than I anticipated in terms of connecting myself to the community. I feel very welcomed and have made some great friends. What I struggle with is my role, particularly with the students. I've been attending some classes and getting to know students through this venue.
I've also "adopted" three girls as part of the Extended Family Program. I'm having dinner with them tonight - I've only met one so far so I'm very excited to get to know them. Victoria is originally from Spain and goes to UVa. Janelle and Lauryn I'm not sure yet.
Also, I've gotten involved with the GLBT Queering Alliance - this is for any participant who identifies as gay, lesbian, bisexual or transgendered and anyone who considers themselves an ally. I'm working right now with 3 students to identify areas, neighborhoods, clubs/bars, beaches, demonstrations, community organizations, etc in Cape Town that are gay friendly - we'll be presenting it to our GLBT group and hopefully to the entire shipboard community before arriving in South Africa.
Lastly, the lovely ladies in the Field Program Office (in-country programs) have adopted me - I'm hoping to start volunteering in their office soon.
My friend, Barbara Sobey, has started an informal walking group in the afternoons - we tromp around the ship for 30 minutes, wandering around all the nooks and crannies and up and down stairwells. Unfortunately there is no deck that you can do laps on - they all have some obstruction or other. But we're having fun. It's been about 4-5 faculty, staff and me. Barbara's husband, Ed, teaches Oceanography on the ship. They are from Redmond, WA and one of our favorite couples.
So much more I can write...but I'll sign off for now.
Much love,
heather ;)
Just wanted to share a few thoughts as we wander across the South Atlantic. We will be arriving in Walvis Bay, Namibia in just under 48 hours. Tonight we will have a Cultural Pre-port Meeting for the entire ship - this is a time dedicated to learning about various cultural aspects of the country we are about to visit. We also have a Logistical Pre-port Meeting. The former generally means some information about the local language(s), food, architecture, customs, etc. The latter is more about safety, transportation, etc.
Before arriving in Brasil, we were treated to a personal account of life in Salvador by our Interport student who was from Salvador. Unfortunately, we do not have anyone on the ship from Namibia. It is the first time that SAS is stopping in the country.
We have had an Interport Lecturer from Cape Town with us since leaving Brasil, Mohammed Adhikari - he's been giving guest lectures in classes and I'm hopeful Mohammed will talk in our Pre-port Meetings prior to arriving in Cape Town.
We also have had a post-doctoral scientist, Shane Elipot, with us since Brasil. He works for NOAA and calls Miami home, though he's originally from France. Shane's been dropping research beacons off the back of the ship about every 12 hours - they will monitor and record information such as ocean currents, temperature, etc. Bill was able to attend his lecture explaining the whole process - perhaps he will have a chance to elaborate on the project. Yesterday, a number of students wrote letters to King Neptune on the outside of the box that contains the beacon (all the materials are biodegradable) - it was very cute.
I've been enjoying a great number of lectures and discussions. Just last night Bill and I attended a book talk - the Academic Dean arranged for a series of books for the entire shipboard community to read if they choose to/have the time. We read "Disgrace" by J.M. Coetzee. It was very good and very disturbing - the story of a middle-aged, male Afrikaner set in post-Apartheid South Africa. The author actually won the Nobel Prize for "Waiting for the Barbarians" - his work paints a very painful metaphor for the racial tension and struggle for power in the country. The subsequent discussion was very stimulating - I'm not sure I've ever been in a book club with so many professors! Alas, I miss my Santa Cruz Bookslugs...I hope you are enjoying "Snow" - I haven't found a copy to read but am still looking.
I also just finished "To My Children's Children" by Sindwe Magona. That is the next book we'll discuss on the ship, post our stop in Cape Town. It's an autobiography of a young Xhosa woman growing up in the 1950-60s outside of Cape Town. Very moving. On of our Africanist professor's is leading that discussion. And, finally, I'm reading "Cry the Beloved Country" for the first time.
As you might gather, I am priviledged with a great deal of free time when on the ship. It's a blessing and a curse, I must say. I'm finding life on the ship a bit more difficult than I anticipated in terms of connecting myself to the community. I feel very welcomed and have made some great friends. What I struggle with is my role, particularly with the students. I've been attending some classes and getting to know students through this venue.
I've also "adopted" three girls as part of the Extended Family Program. I'm having dinner with them tonight - I've only met one so far so I'm very excited to get to know them. Victoria is originally from Spain and goes to UVa. Janelle and Lauryn I'm not sure yet.
Also, I've gotten involved with the GLBT Queering Alliance - this is for any participant who identifies as gay, lesbian, bisexual or transgendered and anyone who considers themselves an ally. I'm working right now with 3 students to identify areas, neighborhoods, clubs/bars, beaches, demonstrations, community organizations, etc in Cape Town that are gay friendly - we'll be presenting it to our GLBT group and hopefully to the entire shipboard community before arriving in South Africa.
Lastly, the lovely ladies in the Field Program Office (in-country programs) have adopted me - I'm hoping to start volunteering in their office soon.
My friend, Barbara Sobey, has started an informal walking group in the afternoons - we tromp around the ship for 30 minutes, wandering around all the nooks and crannies and up and down stairwells. Unfortunately there is no deck that you can do laps on - they all have some obstruction or other. But we're having fun. It's been about 4-5 faculty, staff and me. Barbara's husband, Ed, teaches Oceanography on the ship. They are from Redmond, WA and one of our favorite couples.
So much more I can write...but I'll sign off for now.
Much love,
heather ;)
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Salvador, Brasil
I'm rocking and rolling physically, but not sick, currently headed east across the Atlantic Ocean toward Walvis (pronounced in the German tradition: vaul-fish) Bay, in Namibia. But we just left Salvador, of whose people 87% are of slave ancestors of African/black descent, Heather and I stood out like proverbial sore thumbs. Thankfully, we are/were old and wise enough to avoid actual trouble. Not so for all of our students...On the other hand, I found out later that many people of color on our voyage were treated much more favorably in terms of prices in stores, taxi's and restaurants. Good for them
Heather and I spoke with my parents for a few minutes last week when we arrived in Salvador. It was great to hear familiar voices. They were just back from cousin Patrick's and Marilyn's wedding and so I offer congratulations to Patrick and Marilyn on the big commitment! We're sorry we couldn't attend.
Salvador is a lively place, full of color and culture and savory fried food on every street corner. My favorite were the coffee vendors who carried a carpenters tool box-like tray full of carafes of espresso coffee, all varieties sweetened and available for 50 centavos ($0.35). Also good are the fried manioc flower, the baked beans, the acai-fruit bowls, the shrimp stews, barbecued meats (of various and unknown orgins). The coconuts on the beach, macheted open and drinkable without processing were very good too! Castanha (cashew) nuts were everywhere and fantastic too! The deep fried cheese balls were good too yum. Everything is fried or cooked in palm (dende) oil. I think my stomach is still churning out the leftovers, but it tasted great on the way in!
It's also a place of development and poverty where lane lines on the roads are merely suggestive and bus drivers are the bravest people in the country. No public restrooms exist so many people urinate and defecate on the sidewalks, making for interesting running routes. And we learned that it’s difficult not to run through favelas (state-assigned neighborhoods) which, at the 0600 hour, weren't specifically unsafe but not a great idea. American cities tend to isolate their slums (a loose translation), but favelas tend to be everywhere because 53% of Salvadorans live in favela neighborhoods on about Real$400/month (USD $250). Due in large part to state rules (and class privilege) for land ownership, the expectation of owning land is a low one and very much ascribed to racial lines.
In the process of learning about each other, Heather and I are figuring out how to travel together, live together in close, shared community and to be comfortable with all the constant upheaval of traveling. I'm not sure that last one is possible, but we’re trying. We were able to 'get used to' the surroundings in Salvador, pronouncing "No" as Nao (very nasal) helped us to be understood by the many street vendors and beggars pedaling their wares to earn a subsistence living.
On our last day in port, we took an organized tour of the Afro-Brazilian Candomble museum and a Candomble house in Salvador. Candomble is an African-roots historical and family spiritual tradition that parallels, but does not specifically interfere with, religions like Catholicism that, in Brazil, have been more or less state sponsored (depending on which military dictator was in power). Candomble was brought to Brazil by slaves from three distinct parts of West Africa between 1700-1888, the official end of slavery in Brazil. The practices have an initiation period for young people, and each individual identifies with and becomes possessed by, on honorific days, an Orixa (pronounced Or-e-sha) that brings out a part of their personalities. There are 23 Orixa’s in Brazilian Candomble. Some have up to seven different forms. Many Christians compare these Orixs’s to saints and the Jesuits were adept at making those parallels in the process of converting the Brazilian population to Catholicism. A dual set of traditions developed and now both exist fairly comfortably in Salvador.
We did get out of Salvador for two days to a beach town called Praia do Forte (literally Beach Fort). Up the coast about 70km from Salvador, we found a quiet, somewhat more touristy, village with lots of pretty beaches, friendly people and great little reef-formed swimming holes in the ocean. Perfect for snorkeling and (theoretically) surfing, we spent some time on the beach. While walking we were treated by some local surfers finishing up a session and they offered us a coconut to drink and some advice about surfing (which was blown out by the next morning). We visited a sea-turtle research project and learned all about Heather’s favorite animal, the sea-turtle. She has a new bag to commemorate the occasion!
We're missing our familiar surroundings and people. Thanks Woody for your letter and clippings and picture. :) And thanks to all of our family members for your kind emails and thoughts!
Bill
From Heather:
Oi! (Hi!)
Greetings from the South Atlantic Ocean - we are on our way to the great African continent and I'm beside myself with joy as we approach this place I've been dreaming of for years. I welcome the lessons I will hopefully learn about its people and environment, most of which will likely (and hopefully) undo my assumptions and challenge my expectations.
But first a few thoughts about the place we just left. Brasil. Wow! What a vibrant and colorful place in this world. I won't write much as Bill has summated alot of what we tasted, smelled and touched. It was a lovely 5 days - long enough to just become comfortable and ready to do and see more of the vast country. I was struck by the friendliness of Brasilians.
Salvador was difficult at first - as Bill wrote it took time to negotiate the language and obvious economic barrier of those we met around the port and in the Cidade Baixa (Lower City). That particular area is very poor and industrial. It was very difficult to not be the tourists that we were. But once we were able to get around town a bit and up the coast to Praia do Forte, we felt more confident in our communications and bearings.
A few highlights for me: capeoria on the streets, acai na tigela (bowls of acai berries that are blended into a puree topped with sliced bananas and granola), seeing signs and paintings of Barack Obama all over, drinking fresh coconut juice offered to us by some local surfers, warm roasted peanuts in paper cones, the local music, the Portuguese language all around us, riding the bus, the Candomble Museum and the African influences in everything, the lecture on Humpback whales we listened to in Portuguese while surrounded by high schoolers, and the sea turtles!!! Oh the sea turtles. If only I could have witnessed a mama laying eggs but alas the tide that morning was low and it was just the beginning of their season of coming ashore. Supposedly Leatherback sea turtles also nest on the coast of Namibia but we are also too early for their season.
There's so much more....but this is too long already.
Just a reminder - we have Intranet email on the ship that is very easy to check on a daily basis. wheinrich@semesteratsea.net & hricks@semesteratsea.net
I'm posting pictures - check our shutterfly account in a day. http://heatherbill.shutterfly.com (you'll have to cut and paste this address - the live link feature is still not working).
Thanks, Woody, for the snail mail - so fun to get in port!!
Bem noyte,
heather ;)
Heather and I spoke with my parents for a few minutes last week when we arrived in Salvador. It was great to hear familiar voices. They were just back from cousin Patrick's and Marilyn's wedding and so I offer congratulations to Patrick and Marilyn on the big commitment! We're sorry we couldn't attend.
Salvador is a lively place, full of color and culture and savory fried food on every street corner. My favorite were the coffee vendors who carried a carpenters tool box-like tray full of carafes of espresso coffee, all varieties sweetened and available for 50 centavos ($0.35). Also good are the fried manioc flower, the baked beans, the acai-fruit bowls, the shrimp stews, barbecued meats (of various and unknown orgins). The coconuts on the beach, macheted open and drinkable without processing were very good too! Castanha (cashew) nuts were everywhere and fantastic too! The deep fried cheese balls were good too yum. Everything is fried or cooked in palm (dende) oil. I think my stomach is still churning out the leftovers, but it tasted great on the way in!
It's also a place of development and poverty where lane lines on the roads are merely suggestive and bus drivers are the bravest people in the country. No public restrooms exist so many people urinate and defecate on the sidewalks, making for interesting running routes. And we learned that it’s difficult not to run through favelas (state-assigned neighborhoods) which, at the 0600 hour, weren't specifically unsafe but not a great idea. American cities tend to isolate their slums (a loose translation), but favelas tend to be everywhere because 53% of Salvadorans live in favela neighborhoods on about Real$400/month (USD $250). Due in large part to state rules (and class privilege) for land ownership, the expectation of owning land is a low one and very much ascribed to racial lines.
In the process of learning about each other, Heather and I are figuring out how to travel together, live together in close, shared community and to be comfortable with all the constant upheaval of traveling. I'm not sure that last one is possible, but we’re trying. We were able to 'get used to' the surroundings in Salvador, pronouncing "No" as Nao (very nasal) helped us to be understood by the many street vendors and beggars pedaling their wares to earn a subsistence living.
On our last day in port, we took an organized tour of the Afro-Brazilian Candomble museum and a Candomble house in Salvador. Candomble is an African-roots historical and family spiritual tradition that parallels, but does not specifically interfere with, religions like Catholicism that, in Brazil, have been more or less state sponsored (depending on which military dictator was in power). Candomble was brought to Brazil by slaves from three distinct parts of West Africa between 1700-1888, the official end of slavery in Brazil. The practices have an initiation period for young people, and each individual identifies with and becomes possessed by, on honorific days, an Orixa (pronounced Or-e-sha) that brings out a part of their personalities. There are 23 Orixa’s in Brazilian Candomble. Some have up to seven different forms. Many Christians compare these Orixs’s to saints and the Jesuits were adept at making those parallels in the process of converting the Brazilian population to Catholicism. A dual set of traditions developed and now both exist fairly comfortably in Salvador.
We did get out of Salvador for two days to a beach town called Praia do Forte (literally Beach Fort). Up the coast about 70km from Salvador, we found a quiet, somewhat more touristy, village with lots of pretty beaches, friendly people and great little reef-formed swimming holes in the ocean. Perfect for snorkeling and (theoretically) surfing, we spent some time on the beach. While walking we were treated by some local surfers finishing up a session and they offered us a coconut to drink and some advice about surfing (which was blown out by the next morning). We visited a sea-turtle research project and learned all about Heather’s favorite animal, the sea-turtle. She has a new bag to commemorate the occasion!
We're missing our familiar surroundings and people. Thanks Woody for your letter and clippings and picture. :) And thanks to all of our family members for your kind emails and thoughts!
Bill
From Heather:
Oi! (Hi!)
Greetings from the South Atlantic Ocean - we are on our way to the great African continent and I'm beside myself with joy as we approach this place I've been dreaming of for years. I welcome the lessons I will hopefully learn about its people and environment, most of which will likely (and hopefully) undo my assumptions and challenge my expectations.
But first a few thoughts about the place we just left. Brasil. Wow! What a vibrant and colorful place in this world. I won't write much as Bill has summated alot of what we tasted, smelled and touched. It was a lovely 5 days - long enough to just become comfortable and ready to do and see more of the vast country. I was struck by the friendliness of Brasilians.
Salvador was difficult at first - as Bill wrote it took time to negotiate the language and obvious economic barrier of those we met around the port and in the Cidade Baixa (Lower City). That particular area is very poor and industrial. It was very difficult to not be the tourists that we were. But once we were able to get around town a bit and up the coast to Praia do Forte, we felt more confident in our communications and bearings.
A few highlights for me: capeoria on the streets, acai na tigela (bowls of acai berries that are blended into a puree topped with sliced bananas and granola), seeing signs and paintings of Barack Obama all over, drinking fresh coconut juice offered to us by some local surfers, warm roasted peanuts in paper cones, the local music, the Portuguese language all around us, riding the bus, the Candomble Museum and the African influences in everything, the lecture on Humpback whales we listened to in Portuguese while surrounded by high schoolers, and the sea turtles!!! Oh the sea turtles. If only I could have witnessed a mama laying eggs but alas the tide that morning was low and it was just the beginning of their season of coming ashore. Supposedly Leatherback sea turtles also nest on the coast of Namibia but we are also too early for their season.
There's so much more....but this is too long already.
Just a reminder - we have Intranet email on the ship that is very easy to check on a daily basis. wheinrich@semesteratsea.net & hricks@semesteratsea.net
I'm posting pictures - check our shutterfly account in a day. http://heatherbill.shutterfly.com (you'll have to cut and paste this address - the live link feature is still not working).
Thanks, Woody, for the snail mail - so fun to get in port!!
Bem noyte,
heather ;)
Friday, September 5, 2008
I got to shave Bill's head!
Check out the pics from Neptune Day -
http://heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Also, the slideshow of our Embarkation from Nassau, Bahamas is up - there is currently a link from the homepage on the SAS website -
http://semesteratsea.org
The slideshow really shows some great insight as students were just boarding and dealing with so many various emotions. It also gives you a really nice picture of the physical space we are all sharing aboard the MV Explorer.
Sorry I can't get these links to post live so you can just click them - I'll keep trying but for some reason since we've been on the ship I can't get that feature to work.
http://heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Also, the slideshow of our Embarkation from Nassau, Bahamas is up - there is currently a link from the homepage on the SAS website -
http://semesteratsea.org
The slideshow really shows some great insight as students were just boarding and dealing with so many various emotions. It also gives you a really nice picture of the physical space we are all sharing aboard the MV Explorer.
Sorry I can't get these links to post live so you can just click them - I'll keep trying but for some reason since we've been on the ship I can't get that feature to work.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Heading South of the Equator
We will be crossing the Equator this evening, in just 30 minutes or so. Captain Krstanovic will blow the ship's horn at the exact moment. And tomorrow there will be no classes or meetings in the morning so that the entire ship can celebrate Neptune Day together - a ritual at sea that involves dead fish and shaving your head. More stories tomorrow! Bill and another faculty member have challenged the students to raise at least $350 for charity - if they do, Bill and John will shave their heads and Bill his beard. Word has it that the students have already raised over $400 so Bill's going hairless tomorrow. Will get pics up as soon as possible. I think I'm chickening out on the bald head....am nursing a sore throat and general achy body. Seems illnesses are starting to spread around the ship. I spent most of today in bed. Luckily, neither one of us have yet experienced motion sickness.
Wanted to say a belated congratulations to Adri and Monica - we wish we could have been there last weekend to celebrate your wedding. Congrats!!
Joe: I inquired - Mag will be boarding the ship in Cape Town. I'll be sure to tell him hello. Haven't met the Captain yet but will tell him hello as well. And do you and Joy remember a student, Libby O'Sullivan, from Fall '06? She actually just graduated from College 8 this past June as well. Both of her parents are on the faculty this voyage after hearing how much she enjoyed it two years ago.
Saying goodbye to the North Star for a while...
heather ;)
Wanted to say a belated congratulations to Adri and Monica - we wish we could have been there last weekend to celebrate your wedding. Congrats!!
Joe: I inquired - Mag will be boarding the ship in Cape Town. I'll be sure to tell him hello. Haven't met the Captain yet but will tell him hello as well. And do you and Joy remember a student, Libby O'Sullivan, from Fall '06? She actually just graduated from College 8 this past June as well. Both of her parents are on the faculty this voyage after hearing how much she enjoyed it two years ago.
Saying goodbye to the North Star for a while...
heather ;)
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
New photos!
Hi~
I was able to load a few photos from my trip to DC, us boarding in Norfolk, VA and our quick stop in Nassau, Bahamas.
http://heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Also, if you check the SAS website periodically, you may find photo slideshows from our voyage - our photographer, Brittany, is in the process of putting together one from our Embarkation in Norfolk. I'm not exactly sure when it will be posted to the website. There are multiple ones from past voyages already - look under "Resources - Prospective Students" - "What is SAS like?" - http://www.semesteratsea.org
Enjoy!
heather ;)
I was able to load a few photos from my trip to DC, us boarding in Norfolk, VA and our quick stop in Nassau, Bahamas.
http://heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Also, if you check the SAS website periodically, you may find photo slideshows from our voyage - our photographer, Brittany, is in the process of putting together one from our Embarkation in Norfolk. I'm not exactly sure when it will be posted to the website. There are multiple ones from past voyages already - look under "Resources - Prospective Students" - "What is SAS like?" - http://www.semesteratsea.org
Enjoy!
heather ;)
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Off the coast of South America
Hello friends & family~
Greetings from the Atlantic Ocean...only just a few degrees above the Equator now - wow! There's no land in site this day. We had been enjoying panoramic views of a few islands as we made our way out of the Caribbean, as Bill mentioned in another post.
The water has changed again, back to the true blue, choppy Atlantic. Yesterday, as we stirred awake and did our routine look out the window above our bed, we found the water to be clear as glass and grey in color. As the day progressed, it became slightly greener in color with a dark blue line on the horizon.
And yesterday, just at the start of an early lunch, Bill & I spotted 2 pods of humpback whales!! Sarah, I've also spotted some flying fish. ;)
Am still working on adding photos - have found my lil' old laptop to be quite slow with our limited bandwidth.
Much love to all,
heather ;)
Greetings from the Atlantic Ocean...only just a few degrees above the Equator now - wow! There's no land in site this day. We had been enjoying panoramic views of a few islands as we made our way out of the Caribbean, as Bill mentioned in another post.
The water has changed again, back to the true blue, choppy Atlantic. Yesterday, as we stirred awake and did our routine look out the window above our bed, we found the water to be clear as glass and grey in color. As the day progressed, it became slightly greener in color with a dark blue line on the horizon.
And yesterday, just at the start of an early lunch, Bill & I spotted 2 pods of humpback whales!! Sarah, I've also spotted some flying fish. ;)
Am still working on adding photos - have found my lil' old laptop to be quite slow with our limited bandwidth.
Much love to all,
heather ;)
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