www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Enjoy!
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Costa Rica
Our last day on the Pacific Ocean.
We left Costa Rica late last night and are on our way to Balboa, Panama - this is where we will begin our transit through the Panama Canal. Bill and Ed Sobey did a really nice presentation last night on the history of the canal and also the logistical aspects of moving through the locks. Very interesting and exciting! We'll be starting our transit tomorrow morning around 6:30am. We are now on Eastern time. We had our final time change last night!!!!! I can't believe how hard it has been to lose 24 hours over the course of this voyage. Though we do gain 3 back as soon as we fly to California on Monday. ;)
Our time in Costa Rica was really nice. The first day we went on a zip lining canopy tour with SAS - there were about 20 of us so it was a nice size for a group. It was really fun to watch some of the students conquer their fears and have fun zipping through the trees. I'm uploading photos right now for you to see some good shots. There were 8 cables total (so 8 zips) and my favorite was over a big river gorge - I had time to look around and take in the sights. I asked the guide to give me an extra push so I could go faster! Bill and I figured out the higher you hold your knees the faster your speed so we were having fun!
The second day we had a delicious local breakfast (a huge plate of rice and beans and fried eggs with coffee) while we waited for the bus to Jaco (Ha koh). The ride to Jaco took about 2 hours along the coast and we hopped off and found a surf shop pretty quickly. Bill rented a board and hit the beach while I read. We had a lovely lunch with buttered shrimp and ceviche and some good local beer. Walked to our hotel and spent a quiet evening to ourselves. The hotel (which was more like a B&B as they served us a really nice breakfast in the morning) is run by a Canadian couple who built the place themselves a few years ago. They treated us to an upgraded room with 3 levels - such a treat! The whole place sits up on a hill overlooking Jaco with the ocean in front and mountains surrounding. The breeze up there was lovely and the whole atmosphere quiet and peaceful. I relaxed at the pool in the morning and read my book while Bill hit the beach for one more surfing session.
Caught the bus back to Puntarenas yesterday after a yummy lunch of guacamole, quesadillas, fish with rice and beans with a pineapple salsa and fried plantains. So delicious and our first reminder of food from home - we've been dreaming of burritos and salsa for weeks. Costa Rica was so pleasant and, to be truthful, we were limited to some of the least desirable areas. I would love to go back and spend more time exploring some of the less touristy regions and to learn more Spanish. In many ways, it was reminiscent of Santa Cruz and the ship felt very foreign after just a day away. Strange our perceptions when traveling sometimes.
We began packing last night. Without our lovely cards and goodies on the walls, our cabin looks very sad. Tonight is the Ambassador's Ball - a very special dinner for the entire shipboard community. Tomorrow the canal. Then it will be two more days of reflection and preparation for our transition back into the US.
*Woody - thanks for your lovely card and words of wisdom. And for the enticing map - I'm in!!!!
*Kiki - thanks for the card! Such a nice treat. And funny that you cut your hair as I have an appt on Dec 18th to do the same thing! My hair is super long and I'm also going to donate it to Locks of Love.
*Mary Hackman - I didn't get your card. :( But thanks for thinking of us!!!
More to come in these final days.
Looking forward to seeing many of you in the near future.
Much love,
heather ;)
We left Costa Rica late last night and are on our way to Balboa, Panama - this is where we will begin our transit through the Panama Canal. Bill and Ed Sobey did a really nice presentation last night on the history of the canal and also the logistical aspects of moving through the locks. Very interesting and exciting! We'll be starting our transit tomorrow morning around 6:30am. We are now on Eastern time. We had our final time change last night!!!!! I can't believe how hard it has been to lose 24 hours over the course of this voyage. Though we do gain 3 back as soon as we fly to California on Monday. ;)
Our time in Costa Rica was really nice. The first day we went on a zip lining canopy tour with SAS - there were about 20 of us so it was a nice size for a group. It was really fun to watch some of the students conquer their fears and have fun zipping through the trees. I'm uploading photos right now for you to see some good shots. There were 8 cables total (so 8 zips) and my favorite was over a big river gorge - I had time to look around and take in the sights. I asked the guide to give me an extra push so I could go faster! Bill and I figured out the higher you hold your knees the faster your speed so we were having fun!
The second day we had a delicious local breakfast (a huge plate of rice and beans and fried eggs with coffee) while we waited for the bus to Jaco (Ha koh). The ride to Jaco took about 2 hours along the coast and we hopped off and found a surf shop pretty quickly. Bill rented a board and hit the beach while I read. We had a lovely lunch with buttered shrimp and ceviche and some good local beer. Walked to our hotel and spent a quiet evening to ourselves. The hotel (which was more like a B&B as they served us a really nice breakfast in the morning) is run by a Canadian couple who built the place themselves a few years ago. They treated us to an upgraded room with 3 levels - such a treat! The whole place sits up on a hill overlooking Jaco with the ocean in front and mountains surrounding. The breeze up there was lovely and the whole atmosphere quiet and peaceful. I relaxed at the pool in the morning and read my book while Bill hit the beach for one more surfing session.
Caught the bus back to Puntarenas yesterday after a yummy lunch of guacamole, quesadillas, fish with rice and beans with a pineapple salsa and fried plantains. So delicious and our first reminder of food from home - we've been dreaming of burritos and salsa for weeks. Costa Rica was so pleasant and, to be truthful, we were limited to some of the least desirable areas. I would love to go back and spend more time exploring some of the less touristy regions and to learn more Spanish. In many ways, it was reminiscent of Santa Cruz and the ship felt very foreign after just a day away. Strange our perceptions when traveling sometimes.
We began packing last night. Without our lovely cards and goodies on the walls, our cabin looks very sad. Tonight is the Ambassador's Ball - a very special dinner for the entire shipboard community. Tomorrow the canal. Then it will be two more days of reflection and preparation for our transition back into the US.
*Woody - thanks for your lovely card and words of wisdom. And for the enticing map - I'm in!!!!
*Kiki - thanks for the card! Such a nice treat. And funny that you cut your hair as I have an appt on Dec 18th to do the same thing! My hair is super long and I'm also going to donate it to Locks of Love.
*Mary Hackman - I didn't get your card. :( But thanks for thinking of us!!!
More to come in these final days.
Looking forward to seeing many of you in the near future.
Much love,
heather ;)
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Finally - land!
Hi!
Just a quick note...waiting for customs clearance as we sit on the water outside Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica. We are tendering (taking small boats to and from shore) this morning and then moving onto the pier in Puntarenas, which I can see from our deck, in the evening. Something about the pier not having room for us today...not sure.
It's been another long stretch at sea that included many fun things and lots of final classes and tests. The last day of exams was yesterday so the only academic work being done know is by the furious grading faculty. As a teacher, I do not envy them especially as we pull into Costa Rica for 3 days. Grades are due on the first day we leave this port - kinda brutal for them.
Just a quick note...waiting for customs clearance as we sit on the water outside Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica. We are tendering (taking small boats to and from shore) this morning and then moving onto the pier in Puntarenas, which I can see from our deck, in the evening. Something about the pier not having room for us today...not sure.
It's been another long stretch at sea that included many fun things and lots of final classes and tests. The last day of exams was yesterday so the only academic work being done know is by the furious grading faculty. As a teacher, I do not envy them especially as we pull into Costa Rica for 3 days. Grades are due on the first day we leave this port - kinda brutal for them.
Friday, November 28, 2008
Thanksgiving in Hawai'i
Hello and Happy Holidays!
We had a lovely stop in Hawai'i yesterday - got to see Bill's sister, Elyse, who moved to Oahu in August to take a teaching position. We arrived around 8am and were cleared to get off the ship by 10am. Throughout the day, we had the opportunity to speak with family and friends in Illinois, Indiana, Virginia and California. I wish I could have called all of you and want everyone to know we were thinking of you!!
Elyse showed up at the pier and we shared tearful hugs and excitment at seeing one another (we last saw her at our wedding in August). She brought us both a beautiful ginger orchid lei - I love that ritual in Hawai'i and it reminded me of my trip in May of 2006 when my sister, Michelle, welcomed me to Kauai in the same manner. The flowers smelled lovely and it was fun to wear the lei all day (it's tradition to greet guests arriving to the islands with these but also to give them for birthdays and other special events). It's also fun when people see you wearing them and exclaim "Oh - you've been lei'd!"(haha). They are now hanging in our room so that we can continue to enjoy the island spirit.
After a great cup of Kona coffee and some catching up with stories of life since August for all of us, we met one of Bill's friends from his time in Vermont - Gabe Scottie and his wife, Michelle. They also live on Oahu and they took the time to stop and say hello on their way to a holiday feast with friends. Bill got to see them last year when we were in Hawai'i for my marathon but Elyse and I hadn't met them so that was fun.
We then drove to Elyse's house but first stopped at the Pali overlook to see a beautiful view of the windward side of the island. We ran into some friends from the ship and they offered us some sushi and fresh mango (they had gone to Whole Foods upon arrival to land) and this proved a delicious snack. From there we drove to Elyse's home which she shares with three other women, none of whom were home so we didn't get to meet them unfortunately. Next time!
We sat down to a Thanksgiving feast that Elyse had prepared the day before (to make life simpler) and the three of us stuffed ourselves silly. It was so wonderful to break bread with Elyse and to share the day with family, as we were both, obviously, far away from our larger clans. I think it was as wonderful for Elyse as it was for us and we greatly appreciated her time and effort in preparing her first turkey dinner! She made the Heinrich usuals, including Grandma Dobbeleare's Cranberry Fluff. We also had fresh pineapple...when in Hawai'i - it was delicious!
To top it off, we shared dessert (chocolate fudge brownies with vanilla frosting, slightly undercooked and moist like Mom H's) on the sand at the local beach just 5 minutes from Elyse's house. Bill jumped in the water and caught a few waves on Elyse's boogie board and he was grinning from ear to ear with delight.
Finally, we drove another scenic route back to the pier and stopped quickly for some indulgent and light reading material (Outside, Newsweek and Oprah magazines) at the grocery store on our way back to the ship. Elyse was kind enough to do some shopping for us before we arrived and we're now stocked to the brim with chips and salsa, chewing gum, candy, healthy cereal and granola bars, beer, hot cocoa, chocolate, coffee and other goodies until we arrive in Miami. I think she was surprised at how happy these few groceries made us! Thanks, Elyse!
I've uploaded some photos from our day in Hawai'i. I've also added some pics to our Shipboard Life album from a fancy Faculty/Staff dinner we all shared last week.
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Thanks for the snail mail: Woody, Nicole P, Laurie, Jeanne, Rebecca,
Ed H and Joe D, my Mom, and Sarah Coy!
Thanks for the drawings: Lynne, Elena and Andrew! They are hanging on our cabin wall.
My phone will be functioning again on Dec 14th.
Much love,
heather ;)
We had a lovely stop in Hawai'i yesterday - got to see Bill's sister, Elyse, who moved to Oahu in August to take a teaching position. We arrived around 8am and were cleared to get off the ship by 10am. Throughout the day, we had the opportunity to speak with family and friends in Illinois, Indiana, Virginia and California. I wish I could have called all of you and want everyone to know we were thinking of you!!
Elyse showed up at the pier and we shared tearful hugs and excitment at seeing one another (we last saw her at our wedding in August). She brought us both a beautiful ginger orchid lei - I love that ritual in Hawai'i and it reminded me of my trip in May of 2006 when my sister, Michelle, welcomed me to Kauai in the same manner. The flowers smelled lovely and it was fun to wear the lei all day (it's tradition to greet guests arriving to the islands with these but also to give them for birthdays and other special events). It's also fun when people see you wearing them and exclaim "Oh - you've been lei'd!"(haha). They are now hanging in our room so that we can continue to enjoy the island spirit.
After a great cup of Kona coffee and some catching up with stories of life since August for all of us, we met one of Bill's friends from his time in Vermont - Gabe Scottie and his wife, Michelle. They also live on Oahu and they took the time to stop and say hello on their way to a holiday feast with friends. Bill got to see them last year when we were in Hawai'i for my marathon but Elyse and I hadn't met them so that was fun.
We then drove to Elyse's house but first stopped at the Pali overlook to see a beautiful view of the windward side of the island. We ran into some friends from the ship and they offered us some sushi and fresh mango (they had gone to Whole Foods upon arrival to land) and this proved a delicious snack. From there we drove to Elyse's home which she shares with three other women, none of whom were home so we didn't get to meet them unfortunately. Next time!
We sat down to a Thanksgiving feast that Elyse had prepared the day before (to make life simpler) and the three of us stuffed ourselves silly. It was so wonderful to break bread with Elyse and to share the day with family, as we were both, obviously, far away from our larger clans. I think it was as wonderful for Elyse as it was for us and we greatly appreciated her time and effort in preparing her first turkey dinner! She made the Heinrich usuals, including Grandma Dobbeleare's Cranberry Fluff. We also had fresh pineapple...when in Hawai'i - it was delicious!
To top it off, we shared dessert (chocolate fudge brownies with vanilla frosting, slightly undercooked and moist like Mom H's) on the sand at the local beach just 5 minutes from Elyse's house. Bill jumped in the water and caught a few waves on Elyse's boogie board and he was grinning from ear to ear with delight.
Finally, we drove another scenic route back to the pier and stopped quickly for some indulgent and light reading material (Outside, Newsweek and Oprah magazines) at the grocery store on our way back to the ship. Elyse was kind enough to do some shopping for us before we arrived and we're now stocked to the brim with chips and salsa, chewing gum, candy, healthy cereal and granola bars, beer, hot cocoa, chocolate, coffee and other goodies until we arrive in Miami. I think she was surprised at how happy these few groceries made us! Thanks, Elyse!
I've uploaded some photos from our day in Hawai'i. I've also added some pics to our Shipboard Life album from a fancy Faculty/Staff dinner we all shared last week.
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Thanks for the snail mail: Woody, Nicole P, Laurie, Jeanne, Rebecca,
Ed H and Joe D, my Mom, and Sarah Coy!
Thanks for the drawings: Lynne, Elena and Andrew! They are hanging on our cabin wall.
My phone will be functioning again on Dec 14th.
Much love,
heather ;)
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Yokohama and life on the Pacific
We spent two days in Yokohama - a really pretty port city just south of Tokyo. The first day we spent wandering around the streets of Yokohama, admiring the beautiful fall foliage and checking out the baseball stadium (home to the Yokohama Bay Stars), Chinatown (the largest one in Japan) and the Yamashita Park right on the water bordering Osanbashi Pier, where our ship was docked. In the afternoon we walked through the Cosmo World area on the other side of Osanbashi Pier - it's like the Santa Cruz Boardwalk but much bigger.
According to some folks on the ship, Yokohama has really reinvented itself and the harbor front is much nicer than 30 years ago. The city is preparing for next year when they will celebrate 150 years.
The second day we hopped onto the local train with Brooke and Ian and ventured out to the Ramen Museum near Shin-Yokohama station in the 'burbs. It was interesting albeit a bit disappointing. It didn't cost much to get into the museum and the place was set-up as a re-creation of old Japan. If you've been to Las Vegas, picture the painted ceilings and replica buildings inside casinos that make you feel as if you are walking through the streets of another place (in the case, early-1900s Japan). It was fun and we enjoyed the atmosphere. The ramen, on the other hand, was too pricey to taste (there were 8 mini-restaurants each selling samples for 900-1500 yen which is roughly $9-$15). Since we'd already planned to search out a particular restaurant back in Yokohama for lunch, we weren't really interested in spending that much on tastings. We opted to browse the gift shop and the noodle factory, the latter of which was closed unfortunately.
The train back to Yokohama was uneventful but Brooke and Ian were entertaining. We all had lunch at a place run by a woman from Mexico who married a Japanese man. It was our first taste of Mexican food since leaving California and a welcome treat. Afterwards we wandered the shopping district a bit more before returning to the ship to wade through immigration and prepare for sailing.
Life has been quiet at sea, for the most part. It's been nice to re-group and fall into some familiar routines again. The last month was a bit of whirlwind of ports and sights, all wonderful. I've managed to run and/or bike every morning this past week, something I haven't been doing at all for a long time. Have also been helping one of the LLCs with preparations for the Ambassador's Ball on December 10th (I've just been cutting invitations). And yesterday was the Students of Service Auction (silent, raffle and live) for charity. The ship community voted to split the money between three charities that we've come into contact with on our voyage: Operation Hunger (South Africa), Agent Orange Orphanage (Viet Nam) and Victims of Acid Violence (Cambodia). All told, the three auctions raised over $16,000!!! So exciting!
Have to go. Hope everyone is well.
Thanks, Woody, for your letter(s) in Yokohama!!
Really looking forward to seeing you in a few days, Elyse!
Happy Thanksgiving!
Much love,
heather ;)
According to some folks on the ship, Yokohama has really reinvented itself and the harbor front is much nicer than 30 years ago. The city is preparing for next year when they will celebrate 150 years.
The second day we hopped onto the local train with Brooke and Ian and ventured out to the Ramen Museum near Shin-Yokohama station in the 'burbs. It was interesting albeit a bit disappointing. It didn't cost much to get into the museum and the place was set-up as a re-creation of old Japan. If you've been to Las Vegas, picture the painted ceilings and replica buildings inside casinos that make you feel as if you are walking through the streets of another place (in the case, early-1900s Japan). It was fun and we enjoyed the atmosphere. The ramen, on the other hand, was too pricey to taste (there were 8 mini-restaurants each selling samples for 900-1500 yen which is roughly $9-$15). Since we'd already planned to search out a particular restaurant back in Yokohama for lunch, we weren't really interested in spending that much on tastings. We opted to browse the gift shop and the noodle factory, the latter of which was closed unfortunately.
The train back to Yokohama was uneventful but Brooke and Ian were entertaining. We all had lunch at a place run by a woman from Mexico who married a Japanese man. It was our first taste of Mexican food since leaving California and a welcome treat. Afterwards we wandered the shopping district a bit more before returning to the ship to wade through immigration and prepare for sailing.
Life has been quiet at sea, for the most part. It's been nice to re-group and fall into some familiar routines again. The last month was a bit of whirlwind of ports and sights, all wonderful. I've managed to run and/or bike every morning this past week, something I haven't been doing at all for a long time. Have also been helping one of the LLCs with preparations for the Ambassador's Ball on December 10th (I've just been cutting invitations). And yesterday was the Students of Service Auction (silent, raffle and live) for charity. The ship community voted to split the money between three charities that we've come into contact with on our voyage: Operation Hunger (South Africa), Agent Orange Orphanage (Viet Nam) and Victims of Acid Violence (Cambodia). All told, the three auctions raised over $16,000!!! So exciting!
Have to go. Hope everyone is well.
Thanks, Woody, for your letter(s) in Yokohama!!
Really looking forward to seeing you in a few days, Elyse!
Happy Thanksgiving!
Much love,
heather ;)
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Nostalgia and Reflections on the Pacific
Hi everyone. It’s November 19th, the anniversary of Grandpa D’s birth in 1915(?). He passed away last year in April at age 90-ish and on many days I think of him and(and Grandma) and on days like today I miss him. I’m not sure if he would have approved of my traveling and not being so close to family, but travel is an example he and Grandma D. set for me. All the stories I heard from them were of travel to places around the U.S. and (maybe) abroad. The overseas part might be a constructive memory, though.
We’re sailing on the Pacific Ocean now, on the MV explorer, and I’m talking with a student about paying off loans, career choices between teaching and economics, micro finance and non-profit work internationally or domestically. It’s these type of students, who ask tough questions of themselves aloud, that make working here a pleasure. Even if I’m just a sounding board, a place to reflect the questions for students, it seems to be a useful role. I consider this work to be rewarding both personally and professionally. I also struggle with wanting to continue to do this direct work, advising and training students, and wanting to take a leadership role in a university setting, and separating from the direct work with students. I realize through the context of my family and from being apart from them, that my values around the education, in a university setting, of students is a uniquely held one and that same set of values would inform my work as an administrator in any university setting. I guess the question then becomes: Which supervisor wants my leadership values?
This thought comes to me often on this voyage as I consider the leadership demonstrated by my family, my grandfather and parents, my siblings, aunts and uncles and then consider the leadership of the countries and governments that I visited. My perspective feels like a jumble now. I think that’s the point of this voyage. Opening ones eyes to the world in a direct, hands on way really has made me think hard about my leadership and what it means to lead.
The ship moves forward every day, this morning followed by a single albatross. This particular huge bird was very efficient in its use of wave draft and subsequent lift. Did you know that albatross sleep while flying? The part of their brain that makes them fly stays awake (like the part that makes our heart beat when we sleep). This animal seems to have evolved away from land, probably because every time it stopped, someone tried to beat it over the head and eat it. I’d evolve too if that was the case. Students seemed to have gotten the routine of ‘getting on the ship on time’ down by Japan. I’m so glad they can learn, even it took a while. Most of the students are buckling down on papers and reports from their ‘field trips’ in the countries. Some of the students, we’ve learned have hugely outstanding debts from this trip and will likely have their accounts turned over to collection agencies. This seems harsh, but it’s the end of the line for many of these students. Financial aid has been exhausted and they’ve been less-than-responsible for their costs. This includes items like ‘trips to the Taj Mahal.’
Students are getting the point of these travels, for the most part. I’m impressed. Over and over, students get to a place where the relationships they build here matter and the lessons of viewing difference really sink in. The natural comparing and contrasting of cultures, lifestyles, cleanliness, sharing, costs, collective psyche’s, propaganda posters and behaviors is truly an enriching experience. The tension created for some students by all this new information and stimulation comes out in some predictable and some really creative ways, both on the ship and off. The least fun and most predictable is the over use of alcohol as escape/coping/self medication for the stress. More than a few of the students arrive to the ship intoxicated for those and other reasons. But this isn’t the first time we’ve worked with drunk students, so the outcomes are fairly predictable too.
Between the ports, so many very fun things happen on the ship, not the least of are highly competitive circuit of scrabble games, all varieties of strategy games like ‘Risk’ ‘Risk-Star Wars Edition’ ‘Risk-2010’ (which looks way more futuristic than what I’m anticipating for 2010), ‘Stratego’ and various fantasy games. There are monopoly, ping-pong, basketball, volleyball and mini-soccer tournaments. There are study groups and work groups and paper writing support groups and diversity discussion groups and knitting and reading and movie-watching and kids groups. I have great conversations about really esoteric topics with students when they come out of classes. I laugh with and at the stuff people do at talent shows and sing a few songs myself. But I really admire the many students who want to learn and grow and gain important experiences from this voyage. This is a first rate voyage in so many ways.
Japan was a really nice break, being a first rate, first world country, as it is. It’s clean and no one hassles you to ‘buy now’ or ‘how much?’ The transportation is efficient and well loved by the locals, and us, for that matter. My red-ish beard and Heather’s blonde hair caught a few stares on the subways, but mostly from curious 4-6 year old kiddies…the littler ones didn’t know what to do with us. Little kids would stare in awe, as only little children can do: mouth dropped open, eyes wide, ice cream cone forgotten and dripping onto the floor. The only permanent object right then was a large, hairy and odd looking thing (man?). Some were moved to tears and nestled into their caregiver, others responded better when I made silly faces or played peek-a-boo. At times, in certain moments, I would get lost in a book at some little café or stare out at the changing maples and ginko trees, ablaze in yellow, red, orange; leaves swirling in the wind. In these times, I’d look up and literally have to ask myself aloud where I was. “What country are we in?”
Heather answered, “Japan”
“Interesting.”
“Really?”
“Well, not this second, but it seems better than saying ‘terrifying.’”
Back in my book, a turn-for-the worse novel about Tokyo’s organized crime, I find myself longing for the small town congestion of an underdeveloped infrastructure in Santa Cruz and the bustling holiday cheer I get to approach with family in Illinois.
I suppose more good news is on the horizon and I’m looking forward to celebrating Thanskgiving with my sister, Elyse, in Oahu and then Costa Rica for a few days before packing up, squeezing through the Panama Canal and a warm jaunt to Miami. Just 20 more days at sea
Peace!
We’re sailing on the Pacific Ocean now, on the MV explorer, and I’m talking with a student about paying off loans, career choices between teaching and economics, micro finance and non-profit work internationally or domestically. It’s these type of students, who ask tough questions of themselves aloud, that make working here a pleasure. Even if I’m just a sounding board, a place to reflect the questions for students, it seems to be a useful role. I consider this work to be rewarding both personally and professionally. I also struggle with wanting to continue to do this direct work, advising and training students, and wanting to take a leadership role in a university setting, and separating from the direct work with students. I realize through the context of my family and from being apart from them, that my values around the education, in a university setting, of students is a uniquely held one and that same set of values would inform my work as an administrator in any university setting. I guess the question then becomes: Which supervisor wants my leadership values?
This thought comes to me often on this voyage as I consider the leadership demonstrated by my family, my grandfather and parents, my siblings, aunts and uncles and then consider the leadership of the countries and governments that I visited. My perspective feels like a jumble now. I think that’s the point of this voyage. Opening ones eyes to the world in a direct, hands on way really has made me think hard about my leadership and what it means to lead.
The ship moves forward every day, this morning followed by a single albatross. This particular huge bird was very efficient in its use of wave draft and subsequent lift. Did you know that albatross sleep while flying? The part of their brain that makes them fly stays awake (like the part that makes our heart beat when we sleep). This animal seems to have evolved away from land, probably because every time it stopped, someone tried to beat it over the head and eat it. I’d evolve too if that was the case. Students seemed to have gotten the routine of ‘getting on the ship on time’ down by Japan. I’m so glad they can learn, even it took a while. Most of the students are buckling down on papers and reports from their ‘field trips’ in the countries. Some of the students, we’ve learned have hugely outstanding debts from this trip and will likely have their accounts turned over to collection agencies. This seems harsh, but it’s the end of the line for many of these students. Financial aid has been exhausted and they’ve been less-than-responsible for their costs. This includes items like ‘trips to the Taj Mahal.’
Students are getting the point of these travels, for the most part. I’m impressed. Over and over, students get to a place where the relationships they build here matter and the lessons of viewing difference really sink in. The natural comparing and contrasting of cultures, lifestyles, cleanliness, sharing, costs, collective psyche’s, propaganda posters and behaviors is truly an enriching experience. The tension created for some students by all this new information and stimulation comes out in some predictable and some really creative ways, both on the ship and off. The least fun and most predictable is the over use of alcohol as escape/coping/self medication for the stress. More than a few of the students arrive to the ship intoxicated for those and other reasons. But this isn’t the first time we’ve worked with drunk students, so the outcomes are fairly predictable too.
Between the ports, so many very fun things happen on the ship, not the least of are highly competitive circuit of scrabble games, all varieties of strategy games like ‘Risk’ ‘Risk-Star Wars Edition’ ‘Risk-2010’ (which looks way more futuristic than what I’m anticipating for 2010), ‘Stratego’ and various fantasy games. There are monopoly, ping-pong, basketball, volleyball and mini-soccer tournaments. There are study groups and work groups and paper writing support groups and diversity discussion groups and knitting and reading and movie-watching and kids groups. I have great conversations about really esoteric topics with students when they come out of classes. I laugh with and at the stuff people do at talent shows and sing a few songs myself. But I really admire the many students who want to learn and grow and gain important experiences from this voyage. This is a first rate voyage in so many ways.
Japan was a really nice break, being a first rate, first world country, as it is. It’s clean and no one hassles you to ‘buy now’ or ‘how much?’ The transportation is efficient and well loved by the locals, and us, for that matter. My red-ish beard and Heather’s blonde hair caught a few stares on the subways, but mostly from curious 4-6 year old kiddies…the littler ones didn’t know what to do with us. Little kids would stare in awe, as only little children can do: mouth dropped open, eyes wide, ice cream cone forgotten and dripping onto the floor. The only permanent object right then was a large, hairy and odd looking thing (man?). Some were moved to tears and nestled into their caregiver, others responded better when I made silly faces or played peek-a-boo. At times, in certain moments, I would get lost in a book at some little café or stare out at the changing maples and ginko trees, ablaze in yellow, red, orange; leaves swirling in the wind. In these times, I’d look up and literally have to ask myself aloud where I was. “What country are we in?”
Heather answered, “Japan”
“Interesting.”
“Really?”
“Well, not this second, but it seems better than saying ‘terrifying.’”
Back in my book, a turn-for-the worse novel about Tokyo’s organized crime, I find myself longing for the small town congestion of an underdeveloped infrastructure in Santa Cruz and the bustling holiday cheer I get to approach with family in Illinois.
I suppose more good news is on the horizon and I’m looking forward to celebrating Thanskgiving with my sister, Elyse, in Oahu and then Costa Rica for a few days before packing up, squeezing through the Panama Canal and a warm jaunt to Miami. Just 20 more days at sea
Peace!
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Photos are up for Japan
Hello!
Photos are up for Kobe, Kyoto and Yokohama.
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Enjoy!
Photos are up for Kobe, Kyoto and Yokohama.
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Enjoy!
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Fall in Kobe, Japan
Our ship was greeted by a brass band early Thursday morning as we pulled into Kobe harbor. The group of local students played John Phillip Souza as we pulled alongside and, with the fall weather in the air, we all felt like we were headed to a college football game not a Japanese port. A Taiko drumming group played next - totally great. I love Taiko drumming and it reminded me of a wonderful drumming performance I was able to see a few years ago at the Mondavi Center in Davis, California.
After a very involved immigration process, we had a few mishaps to start off our short stop in Kobe (our homestay was unexpectedly cancelled amidst other ship stresses) but we rallied and had a really nice two days. Friday afternoon we spent wandering the Kitano-cho (a neighborhood in central Kobe) and enjoyed just walking the narrow streets and taking in our surroundings. We came across some European-influenced architecture in a region that was predominately non-Japanese through the mid-1900s. What is left are examples of ex-pat homes from England, Holland, France, etc and a more recent Japanese obsession with Western bridal couture.
After a pre-dinner soft-serve ice cream cone (it's so rare, you don't pass it up!), we wandered into what became a highlight of our time in Kobe: a restaurant called Kutjari no Andy (Andy the Whale) owned by a very sweet, funny and friendly couple - Hitomi and Tomonari. We bellied up to the bar for an early evening beer and were soon engaged in conversation that keep us laughing and trying out our very limited Japanese. I might note that Hitomi and Tomonari speak much better English than our Japanese - enough that we were able to converse without any problems and any troublesome translations were created mostly on our end.
We were having such a great time exchanging stories and small gifts (stickers, postcards, origami, business cards), that we decided to stay for dinner. We had pasta, ironically, with homemade meat sauce (just like Grandma Hollister's!) and freshly sauteed shittake mushrooms with cream sauce. Heavenly! Can you tell we're jonesing for homecooked and familiar food? Actually, it was the freshness that won us over - I didn't care what they cooked! We also had nicely toasted rye bread and a Japanese-style salad (cabbage, cucumber, radish all thinly sliced and sprinkled with vinegar and pepper). The best part of all this was watching the two of them chop and slice our food just a few feet from the large wooden bar overlooking the small kitchen. Again, this is when I realized how much I miss cooking with Bill or friends at home, talking as we prepare a savory meal together. Hitomi and Tomonari's little restaurant essentially replicated that feeling for me in its physical space and emotional appeal.
As the meal progressed, some friends of theirs that live in the neighborhood joined us and as we enjoyed our food and they drank a few beers, Tomonari began making a homemade bread batter (simply good bread, processed and spiced) for the kakiage (tempura made from bread crumbs not flour) they were soon frying on the stove. If only we'd known - we might have ordered this (the menu we saw was all Western-style food)! They were breading and frying fresh cuts of fish, shrimp, asparagus wrapped with prosciutto....yum. But, no complaints as everything they made was truly delicious and we actually were treated to samples of some of the other Japanese dishes they began preparing. Had a little seaweed salad with salted fish as well as pickled greens with fried tofu.
Anyway, needless to say we were very impressed with our chefs and new friends. As we reluctantly left, everyone bid us goodbye and sent well wishes for the rest of our journey. My favorite memory of the evening was Hitomi and Tomonari walking us outside to the little walkway separating the rows of businesses and homes and waving us off with big smiles. As we walked down the alley, I looked back to see them still waving and wishing us a good evening - so cute!!
Kyoto:
Spent our second day in Kyoto, the capital of Japan for over 11 centuries before Tokyo. We took the train from Kobe - Japanese trains are incredible! Expensive but very clean, easy to use and efficient. It took us just under an hour by the local JR commuter train. Kyoto is very pretty, especially with the fall weather and changing leaves. Bill and I were both enjoying these elements as we strolled along the busy streets, crammed with tourists from all over Japan with a few foreigners mixed into the crowds.
Our first stop was Higashi Honganji temple - a beautiful, functioning Buddhist temple that is under-going some renovation. The process of restoring and protecting these gorgeous wooden structures seems endless and very thorough. Actually, much of Kyoto's historic architecture has had to be rebuilt over the years due to fire. This particular facility was very simple and elegant - the tongue and groove building structure is incredible...a carpenter's heaven. The floor mats were my favorite - called tatami in Japanese. And the paper screens nestled in grooves behind the huge wooden outer doors are beautiful.
We wandered through town and walked along a canal for a bit, observing the thoughtfully designed pathways that serve as flood dikes as well as recreational spaces. Many folks were strolling along in the nice weather and we enjoyed watching a man in thigh-high waders as he fished the small stream.
I really liked the Gion neighborhood that we walked through after crossing the canal. This is a very pretty neighborhood, complete with narrow streets and old-style homes. So fun! Lots of tourists, however, and it was challenging to take in the sights and avoid running into other pedestrians. I was on the look-out for geisha, though I read that they are normally not seen until early evening as they dart through the streets on their way to appointments. I think I might read Memoirs of a Geisha again - it was just as the author described with doorways in all directions and secret passageways that only the locals can navigate easily.
We hopped on a bus and headed to the Ginkajuri-ji temple area in the northwest corner of central Kyoto. We shared a nice lunch - a bento box of rice, sashimi (raw tuna), salad, greens and miso soup and an order of soba noodles with two cokes. Yum! We then walked the Philosophers Path, an old walkway along another much smaller canal through neighborhoods. It was so beautiful and peaceful. It was reminiscent of strolling along a quiet, tree-lined street in New England for me. Dad, I grabbed a few red Maple and Gingko leaves for you that I'll mail in my next note.
We hopped the bus back to Kyoto station and headed back to Kobe on the train crammed with commuters and school children. We got back on the ship and waved goodbye to the high school band that came back to play some jazz and send us off to Yokohama. We are to arrive tomorrow morning and will have another two days to explore what we can. I will certainly be back to Japan - it's lovely!
I am posting photos right now so check out our photo site:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Much love,
heather ;)
After a very involved immigration process, we had a few mishaps to start off our short stop in Kobe (our homestay was unexpectedly cancelled amidst other ship stresses) but we rallied and had a really nice two days. Friday afternoon we spent wandering the Kitano-cho (a neighborhood in central Kobe) and enjoyed just walking the narrow streets and taking in our surroundings. We came across some European-influenced architecture in a region that was predominately non-Japanese through the mid-1900s. What is left are examples of ex-pat homes from England, Holland, France, etc and a more recent Japanese obsession with Western bridal couture.
After a pre-dinner soft-serve ice cream cone (it's so rare, you don't pass it up!), we wandered into what became a highlight of our time in Kobe: a restaurant called Kutjari no Andy (Andy the Whale) owned by a very sweet, funny and friendly couple - Hitomi and Tomonari. We bellied up to the bar for an early evening beer and were soon engaged in conversation that keep us laughing and trying out our very limited Japanese. I might note that Hitomi and Tomonari speak much better English than our Japanese - enough that we were able to converse without any problems and any troublesome translations were created mostly on our end.
We were having such a great time exchanging stories and small gifts (stickers, postcards, origami, business cards), that we decided to stay for dinner. We had pasta, ironically, with homemade meat sauce (just like Grandma Hollister's!) and freshly sauteed shittake mushrooms with cream sauce. Heavenly! Can you tell we're jonesing for homecooked and familiar food? Actually, it was the freshness that won us over - I didn't care what they cooked! We also had nicely toasted rye bread and a Japanese-style salad (cabbage, cucumber, radish all thinly sliced and sprinkled with vinegar and pepper). The best part of all this was watching the two of them chop and slice our food just a few feet from the large wooden bar overlooking the small kitchen. Again, this is when I realized how much I miss cooking with Bill or friends at home, talking as we prepare a savory meal together. Hitomi and Tomonari's little restaurant essentially replicated that feeling for me in its physical space and emotional appeal.
As the meal progressed, some friends of theirs that live in the neighborhood joined us and as we enjoyed our food and they drank a few beers, Tomonari began making a homemade bread batter (simply good bread, processed and spiced) for the kakiage (tempura made from bread crumbs not flour) they were soon frying on the stove. If only we'd known - we might have ordered this (the menu we saw was all Western-style food)! They were breading and frying fresh cuts of fish, shrimp, asparagus wrapped with prosciutto....yum. But, no complaints as everything they made was truly delicious and we actually were treated to samples of some of the other Japanese dishes they began preparing. Had a little seaweed salad with salted fish as well as pickled greens with fried tofu.
Anyway, needless to say we were very impressed with our chefs and new friends. As we reluctantly left, everyone bid us goodbye and sent well wishes for the rest of our journey. My favorite memory of the evening was Hitomi and Tomonari walking us outside to the little walkway separating the rows of businesses and homes and waving us off with big smiles. As we walked down the alley, I looked back to see them still waving and wishing us a good evening - so cute!!
Kyoto:
Spent our second day in Kyoto, the capital of Japan for over 11 centuries before Tokyo. We took the train from Kobe - Japanese trains are incredible! Expensive but very clean, easy to use and efficient. It took us just under an hour by the local JR commuter train. Kyoto is very pretty, especially with the fall weather and changing leaves. Bill and I were both enjoying these elements as we strolled along the busy streets, crammed with tourists from all over Japan with a few foreigners mixed into the crowds.
Our first stop was Higashi Honganji temple - a beautiful, functioning Buddhist temple that is under-going some renovation. The process of restoring and protecting these gorgeous wooden structures seems endless and very thorough. Actually, much of Kyoto's historic architecture has had to be rebuilt over the years due to fire. This particular facility was very simple and elegant - the tongue and groove building structure is incredible...a carpenter's heaven. The floor mats were my favorite - called tatami in Japanese. And the paper screens nestled in grooves behind the huge wooden outer doors are beautiful.
We wandered through town and walked along a canal for a bit, observing the thoughtfully designed pathways that serve as flood dikes as well as recreational spaces. Many folks were strolling along in the nice weather and we enjoyed watching a man in thigh-high waders as he fished the small stream.
I really liked the Gion neighborhood that we walked through after crossing the canal. This is a very pretty neighborhood, complete with narrow streets and old-style homes. So fun! Lots of tourists, however, and it was challenging to take in the sights and avoid running into other pedestrians. I was on the look-out for geisha, though I read that they are normally not seen until early evening as they dart through the streets on their way to appointments. I think I might read Memoirs of a Geisha again - it was just as the author described with doorways in all directions and secret passageways that only the locals can navigate easily.
We hopped on a bus and headed to the Ginkajuri-ji temple area in the northwest corner of central Kyoto. We shared a nice lunch - a bento box of rice, sashimi (raw tuna), salad, greens and miso soup and an order of soba noodles with two cokes. Yum! We then walked the Philosophers Path, an old walkway along another much smaller canal through neighborhoods. It was so beautiful and peaceful. It was reminiscent of strolling along a quiet, tree-lined street in New England for me. Dad, I grabbed a few red Maple and Gingko leaves for you that I'll mail in my next note.
We hopped the bus back to Kyoto station and headed back to Kobe on the train crammed with commuters and school children. We got back on the ship and waved goodbye to the high school band that came back to play some jazz and send us off to Yokohama. We are to arrive tomorrow morning and will have another two days to explore what we can. I will certainly be back to Japan - it's lovely!
I am posting photos right now so check out our photo site:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Much love,
heather ;)
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Shanghai
Hello from near the Yellow Sea (I think we are technically south of it). We left Shanghai late last night and are sailing toward Kobe, Japan. I'm looking forward to our short stop in Japan and our homestay with students and their families from Kansai University in Osaka.
Our time in Shanghai was very brief, totally just about 24 hours ashore. Between our weather delay in arriving and the involved immigration process, we did not set foot on land until 3pm on the 10th and did not pull away until almost 11pm the following day. A quick, surreal stop to say the least.
The good news is that we connected with my cousin, David Ricks, and his family. They have just moved to Shanghai this past summer and are settling into life in the PRC. We were lucky enough to have their driver, Mr. Wu, at our disposal and we were grateful to have the luxury, especially with only a day to explore this city of almost 20 million.
Mr. Wu was waiting for us at the port and took us to the French Concession. We walked for an hour and then were whisked off to Dave's home. There we met Joseph (10), Katherine (7) and Michael (3). It was great to see Chris, Dave's wife, whom I hadn't seen since I lived in Bloomington, Indiana. They were all gracious guests and we had a lovely time catching up and learning about one another. Had dinner with an American flavor (that we were craving) and thoroughly enjoyed the large, comfy bed and freshly-made coffee in the morning - the little things you miss so much at times.
The second day we were sent off by Chris with chocolate croissants (how'd she know these are our favorite?!?). Mr. Wu drove us to Renmin (People's) Square. We attempted to check out the Shanghai Museum but at 9:30am on a Tuesday we found ourselves in line behind what must have been six school groups and without the patience to wait. Instead, we wandered over to the Shanghai Art Museum and enjoyed their Biennial exhibit, complete with some modern reflections on Shanghai's international flare that made your head spin.
We decided to walk to the Bund, an area along the Huangpu River and in the heart of downtown Shanghai. We bought a propaganda poster replica on the street (couldn't resist the farmer on a tractor with his little red book raised!) and met 5 university students visiting Shanghai. They invited us to a tea ceremony and before we knew it we were in a little room with a spread of beautiful teas from around China. We were treated to an explanation of the various medicinal benefits of each variety and bought some Jasmine tea to take with us. Our new friends were very excited to practice their English and to learn more about us and our culture. They were very funny and sweet and we all exchanged email addresses and invitations to visit each other's country. Very fun.
Spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the shopping district, grabbed some lunch and ran into some friends. Found Mr. Wu and got a ride back to the ship.
Shipboard life is in full swing again as everyone is back on board and busy with classes and planning for Japan in addition to grieving the loss of Kurt Leswing. We had a community-wide meeting last night to discuss the details of Kurt's death and to allow people a space to process and grieve. It's been an interesting and touching experience, compounded in ways that are unique to this small yet fast-paced living community. There are a group of individuals preparing a memorial ceremony for Kurt and his parents are aware of these efforts.
I leave you with Kurt's latest favorite quote, spoken by our special guest Desmond Tutu and shared with us by Kurt's parents:
"Take the anger from your hearts.
Wipe the tears from God's eyes.
And live a life of love."
Pictures of Shanghai are up: www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Thanks, Woody, for the note and Shanghai suggestions.
Elyse - we received another packet of letters and are attempting to send responses from Yokohama.
With love and appreciation for you all,
heather ;)
Our time in Shanghai was very brief, totally just about 24 hours ashore. Between our weather delay in arriving and the involved immigration process, we did not set foot on land until 3pm on the 10th and did not pull away until almost 11pm the following day. A quick, surreal stop to say the least.
The good news is that we connected with my cousin, David Ricks, and his family. They have just moved to Shanghai this past summer and are settling into life in the PRC. We were lucky enough to have their driver, Mr. Wu, at our disposal and we were grateful to have the luxury, especially with only a day to explore this city of almost 20 million.
Mr. Wu was waiting for us at the port and took us to the French Concession. We walked for an hour and then were whisked off to Dave's home. There we met Joseph (10), Katherine (7) and Michael (3). It was great to see Chris, Dave's wife, whom I hadn't seen since I lived in Bloomington, Indiana. They were all gracious guests and we had a lovely time catching up and learning about one another. Had dinner with an American flavor (that we were craving) and thoroughly enjoyed the large, comfy bed and freshly-made coffee in the morning - the little things you miss so much at times.
The second day we were sent off by Chris with chocolate croissants (how'd she know these are our favorite?!?). Mr. Wu drove us to Renmin (People's) Square. We attempted to check out the Shanghai Museum but at 9:30am on a Tuesday we found ourselves in line behind what must have been six school groups and without the patience to wait. Instead, we wandered over to the Shanghai Art Museum and enjoyed their Biennial exhibit, complete with some modern reflections on Shanghai's international flare that made your head spin.
We decided to walk to the Bund, an area along the Huangpu River and in the heart of downtown Shanghai. We bought a propaganda poster replica on the street (couldn't resist the farmer on a tractor with his little red book raised!) and met 5 university students visiting Shanghai. They invited us to a tea ceremony and before we knew it we were in a little room with a spread of beautiful teas from around China. We were treated to an explanation of the various medicinal benefits of each variety and bought some Jasmine tea to take with us. Our new friends were very excited to practice their English and to learn more about us and our culture. They were very funny and sweet and we all exchanged email addresses and invitations to visit each other's country. Very fun.
Spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the shopping district, grabbed some lunch and ran into some friends. Found Mr. Wu and got a ride back to the ship.
Shipboard life is in full swing again as everyone is back on board and busy with classes and planning for Japan in addition to grieving the loss of Kurt Leswing. We had a community-wide meeting last night to discuss the details of Kurt's death and to allow people a space to process and grieve. It's been an interesting and touching experience, compounded in ways that are unique to this small yet fast-paced living community. There are a group of individuals preparing a memorial ceremony for Kurt and his parents are aware of these efforts.
I leave you with Kurt's latest favorite quote, spoken by our special guest Desmond Tutu and shared with us by Kurt's parents:
"Take the anger from your hearts.
Wipe the tears from God's eyes.
And live a life of love."
Pictures of Shanghai are up: www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Thanks, Woody, for the note and Shanghai suggestions.
Elyse - we received another packet of letters and are attempting to send responses from Yokohama.
With love and appreciation for you all,
heather ;)
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Hong Kong
We're sailing up the Shanghai, China River as I reflect, now on a brief trip to Hong Kong. Heather and I had a fine time there, seeing the city from it's high points and from the underground subway. We saw it's largest, seated, outdoor bronze Buddha statue and it's mix of ancient, colonial and very cosmopolitan architecture in 'Central' (downtown). We walked, smelled, tasted and viewed what we could in 36 hours.
It was a great pleasure to speak for some time with family in Illinois for a while on the early morning of November 7th, local time. After some sleep and sightseeing on the 7th, Heather and I returned to the ship about 5pm and soon learned of the death of a current student, Kurt Leswing, of Milwaukee and the UW/Madison campus. Kurt was 21. He was struck by a vehicle in Hong Kong and died shortly thereafter on the early morning of Nov. 7th.
The outpouring of sympathy and prayers are much appreciated in this challenging time for Kurt's family, friends and the shipboard community. Thank you all for sending your thoughts and prayers from Illinois and beyond. Information can be found on the Semester at Sea website (www.semesteratsea.org). The staff and faculty on the ship have been working hard to help the community make sense of this tragic event. I'm not yet sure what to say, but it's a sad event.
More later,
Bill
It was a great pleasure to speak for some time with family in Illinois for a while on the early morning of November 7th, local time. After some sleep and sightseeing on the 7th, Heather and I returned to the ship about 5pm and soon learned of the death of a current student, Kurt Leswing, of Milwaukee and the UW/Madison campus. Kurt was 21. He was struck by a vehicle in Hong Kong and died shortly thereafter on the early morning of Nov. 7th.
The outpouring of sympathy and prayers are much appreciated in this challenging time for Kurt's family, friends and the shipboard community. Thank you all for sending your thoughts and prayers from Illinois and beyond. Information can be found on the Semester at Sea website (www.semesteratsea.org). The staff and faculty on the ship have been working hard to help the community make sense of this tragic event. I'm not yet sure what to say, but it's a sad event.
More later,
Bill
*Reminder about change for Costa Rica port address
Hello!
Our snail mailing address for Costa Rica has changed. Please note the change below and thanks in advance for writing! ;)
Port #12
William Heinrich & Heather Ricks
C/O MV Explorer
December 7, 2008
SCAN S.A. / ILG LOGISTICS
Edificio ILG Logistics
200 Mts Norte de Rotonda de Paso Ancho
PO Box 1242-1007
Centro Colon, San Jose, COSTA RICA
Our snail mailing address for Costa Rica has changed. Please note the change below and thanks in advance for writing! ;)
Port #12
William Heinrich & Heather Ricks
C/O MV Explorer
December 7, 2008
SCAN S.A. / ILG LOGISTICS
Edificio ILG Logistics
200 Mts Norte de Rotonda de Paso Ancho
PO Box 1242-1007
Centro Colon, San Jose, COSTA RICA
Friday, November 7, 2008
Photos from Viet Nam & Hong Kong
Forgot to mention - photos are up from Viet Nam & Hong Kong.
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Bicycling through Viet Nam
We have just pulled into the port in Hong Kong - it's truly amazing here with all the massive skyscrapers and boats. It looks like Manhattan but on all sides surrounding us.
We have yet to write about our time in Viet Nam - these ports are happening so quickly right now! We had a wonderful time in our short time there. The first two days we spent in Ho Chi Minh City, eating our way through the area and exploring all the nooks and crannies. We spent some time at the War Remnants Museum which was a very powerful reminder of our presence in Southeast Asia some 30 years ago. It forced me to reflect on our current presence in the Middle East with sadness and regret. I understand that the issues and reasons for war are very complex but the physical harm to the people and landscape seems so simplistically horrific when you view the aftermath.
Our three days in the Mekong Delta were amazing. We traveled by car for a few hours before hopping onto a large boat and floating across the river to a small village factory that makes coconut candy. From there we visited a home and had fresh fruit and tea. We paddled small boats through a little outlet and came upon a half dozen men walking the river in search of shrimp. From there we were taken to our bicycles and rode for about 2 hours along a riverside path. We were greeted continuously by hordes of small children and adults who lived in the neighborhoods. So fun!!
We stayed at a guesthouse that night in Ving Thou that sat right over the river edge. The next morning we rode bikes for another 2-3 hours, stopping for tea and to visit a terracotta brick facility. We rode through rice fields and along dikes between villages. It was incredibly beautiful. We finished our ride in a monsoon downpour and, after drying off and changing clothes, stopped for a delicious lunch. That evening we stayed in a hotel in Can Tho and enjoyed the best meal at a restaurant called Nam Bo. Our guide, Hoan, took us to a dancehall where we swung ourselves across the floor for a short time - the music was very loud and we only lasted about 45 minutes.
Our final day included another boat ride through the largest floating market in the Mekong Delta and then to another home to taste snake wine and banana wine and to visit a rice paper-making facility. Our final stop took us to our bicycles and our last ride was about 10K. We drove back to the ship after lunch and ran a few errands before calling it a night.
I found the food to be incredible in Viet Nam and the local people so friendly and gracious. It was at times very stressful to walk the streets as the traffic does not stop!! But, after a few days, we were cruising about with more confidence and following the locals. Fun times!
Post U.S. election sidenote:
I am still flying high from yesterday's election in the US. Wow! We were able to watch the coverage live on the Internet. It was noon our time when the polls closed on the west coast. I have to say that I cried so much with tears of joy and relief that I took an hour and a half nap later in the day! It was a very emotional experience on the ship with many of us crammed into our Student Union to watch and listen to any news we were able to access. We all listened to McCain's concession speech and were able to watch the festivities in Grant Park. Oh I wish I could have been there in Chicago! Watching and listening to Obama's speech, I was moved by his humility, his grace and his love for our country combined with his concern for our role in the world. I am grateful that we may again act as a country that is part of a larger world picture.
Hope you are all well.
Thanks Woody, Rebecca, Jeanne and Joy/Joe for your letters! And to everyone for your emails!!
More from China in a few days.
Much love,
heather ;)
************
From Bill
Vietnam on to Hong Kong
5th November 2008. It is during the play-by play election coverage that I reflect on a visit to Vietnam, once a former site of conflict and turmoil for Americans, now a place of growth and development by its own people, under its own government, for better or worse.
Heather and I were delighted to join a group of fellow shipmates taking a bicycle tour of the Mekong Delta in the south of Vietnam. This area is highly traversed by both natural and man made waterways, so getting around by little boats is a must. Although, there are big boats too, even some shallow barges carrying dredged sand and other natural resources. All the waterways are lined by mud or dirt sidewalks, for many kilometers in all directions. Peoples houses are situated in flood plains and many people are able to grow fruit trees and rice in their own little ‘yards.’ Each yard is partially under water nearly all year. At this time, the monsoon season, the rain fills up the yards. In the rest of the year, diverted canal water fills the rice patties.
We saw the makings of coconut candy, rice noodles, rice wine, banana wine, snake wine, terra cotta brick firing, and a floating fruit market, on a river. Heather aptly noted that a surreal feeling follows when you find yourself literally in a postcard…to be both present and outside of yourself watching at the same time…believing what you see and not seeing what you believe anymore.
Earlier in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City), we visited the War Remnants Museum. This museum chronicled, from a decidedly ‘unified Vietnamese’ perspective, the “acts and crimes” of war perpetuated by French and American occupiers. Present were actual tanks, artillery guns, fighter and recon planes, all arrays of machine guns, grenade launchers, bazookas, mines, bombs and bomblets, agent orange and pieces of aB-52 bomber shot down. Accompanying the display were text in Vietnamese, French and English about the intended design and actual use and outcome of each weapon. This experience made me feel badly for a number of reasons, but upon further reflection, I feel a deep sympathy for the men and women who served in the war in Vietnam. For those who gave their lives and those whose lives were changed by their fathers and mothers experiences. I thank you for fighting hard. I now know other fights were happening, within people’s consciences and within the U.S.
This reminds me of the reason for elections and voting and knowing why. I don’t think I know all the answers, but I’m glad we’re talking about it.
It is now the 6th of November in Hong Kong and a new president elect has made U.S. history and a story in the world. Hope arises quickly as news travels fast. An unpopular and needlessly continuing war has an end in sight. The vertical landscape of Hong Kong awaits the pitter patter of U.S. feet and the shuffle of U.S. dollars as the shipboard community anxiously prepares to disembark.
We have yet to write about our time in Viet Nam - these ports are happening so quickly right now! We had a wonderful time in our short time there. The first two days we spent in Ho Chi Minh City, eating our way through the area and exploring all the nooks and crannies. We spent some time at the War Remnants Museum which was a very powerful reminder of our presence in Southeast Asia some 30 years ago. It forced me to reflect on our current presence in the Middle East with sadness and regret. I understand that the issues and reasons for war are very complex but the physical harm to the people and landscape seems so simplistically horrific when you view the aftermath.
Our three days in the Mekong Delta were amazing. We traveled by car for a few hours before hopping onto a large boat and floating across the river to a small village factory that makes coconut candy. From there we visited a home and had fresh fruit and tea. We paddled small boats through a little outlet and came upon a half dozen men walking the river in search of shrimp. From there we were taken to our bicycles and rode for about 2 hours along a riverside path. We were greeted continuously by hordes of small children and adults who lived in the neighborhoods. So fun!!
We stayed at a guesthouse that night in Ving Thou that sat right over the river edge. The next morning we rode bikes for another 2-3 hours, stopping for tea and to visit a terracotta brick facility. We rode through rice fields and along dikes between villages. It was incredibly beautiful. We finished our ride in a monsoon downpour and, after drying off and changing clothes, stopped for a delicious lunch. That evening we stayed in a hotel in Can Tho and enjoyed the best meal at a restaurant called Nam Bo. Our guide, Hoan, took us to a dancehall where we swung ourselves across the floor for a short time - the music was very loud and we only lasted about 45 minutes.
Our final day included another boat ride through the largest floating market in the Mekong Delta and then to another home to taste snake wine and banana wine and to visit a rice paper-making facility. Our final stop took us to our bicycles and our last ride was about 10K. We drove back to the ship after lunch and ran a few errands before calling it a night.
I found the food to be incredible in Viet Nam and the local people so friendly and gracious. It was at times very stressful to walk the streets as the traffic does not stop!! But, after a few days, we were cruising about with more confidence and following the locals. Fun times!
Post U.S. election sidenote:
I am still flying high from yesterday's election in the US. Wow! We were able to watch the coverage live on the Internet. It was noon our time when the polls closed on the west coast. I have to say that I cried so much with tears of joy and relief that I took an hour and a half nap later in the day! It was a very emotional experience on the ship with many of us crammed into our Student Union to watch and listen to any news we were able to access. We all listened to McCain's concession speech and were able to watch the festivities in Grant Park. Oh I wish I could have been there in Chicago! Watching and listening to Obama's speech, I was moved by his humility, his grace and his love for our country combined with his concern for our role in the world. I am grateful that we may again act as a country that is part of a larger world picture.
Hope you are all well.
Thanks Woody, Rebecca, Jeanne and Joy/Joe for your letters! And to everyone for your emails!!
More from China in a few days.
Much love,
heather ;)
************
From Bill
Vietnam on to Hong Kong
5th November 2008. It is during the play-by play election coverage that I reflect on a visit to Vietnam, once a former site of conflict and turmoil for Americans, now a place of growth and development by its own people, under its own government, for better or worse.
Heather and I were delighted to join a group of fellow shipmates taking a bicycle tour of the Mekong Delta in the south of Vietnam. This area is highly traversed by both natural and man made waterways, so getting around by little boats is a must. Although, there are big boats too, even some shallow barges carrying dredged sand and other natural resources. All the waterways are lined by mud or dirt sidewalks, for many kilometers in all directions. Peoples houses are situated in flood plains and many people are able to grow fruit trees and rice in their own little ‘yards.’ Each yard is partially under water nearly all year. At this time, the monsoon season, the rain fills up the yards. In the rest of the year, diverted canal water fills the rice patties.
We saw the makings of coconut candy, rice noodles, rice wine, banana wine, snake wine, terra cotta brick firing, and a floating fruit market, on a river. Heather aptly noted that a surreal feeling follows when you find yourself literally in a postcard…to be both present and outside of yourself watching at the same time…believing what you see and not seeing what you believe anymore.
Earlier in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City), we visited the War Remnants Museum. This museum chronicled, from a decidedly ‘unified Vietnamese’ perspective, the “acts and crimes” of war perpetuated by French and American occupiers. Present were actual tanks, artillery guns, fighter and recon planes, all arrays of machine guns, grenade launchers, bazookas, mines, bombs and bomblets, agent orange and pieces of aB-52 bomber shot down. Accompanying the display were text in Vietnamese, French and English about the intended design and actual use and outcome of each weapon. This experience made me feel badly for a number of reasons, but upon further reflection, I feel a deep sympathy for the men and women who served in the war in Vietnam. For those who gave their lives and those whose lives were changed by their fathers and mothers experiences. I thank you for fighting hard. I now know other fights were happening, within people’s consciences and within the U.S.
This reminds me of the reason for elections and voting and knowing why. I don’t think I know all the answers, but I’m glad we’re talking about it.
It is now the 6th of November in Hong Kong and a new president elect has made U.S. history and a story in the world. Hope arises quickly as news travels fast. An unpopular and needlessly continuing war has an end in sight. The vertical landscape of Hong Kong awaits the pitter patter of U.S. feet and the shuffle of U.S. dollars as the shipboard community anxiously prepares to disembark.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
*Change in Costa Rica snail mail address
Hello!
Our snail mailing address for Costa Rica has changed. Please note the change below and thanks in advance for writing! ;)
Port #12
William Heinrich & Heather Ricks
C/O MV Explorer
December 7, 2008
SCAN S.A. / ILG LOGISTICS
Edificio ILG Logistics
200 Mts Norte de Rotonda de Paso Ancho
PO Box 1242-1007
Centro Colon, San Jose, COSTA RICA
Our snail mailing address for Costa Rica has changed. Please note the change below and thanks in advance for writing! ;)
Port #12
William Heinrich & Heather Ricks
C/O MV Explorer
December 7, 2008
SCAN S.A. / ILG LOGISTICS
Edificio ILG Logistics
200 Mts Norte de Rotonda de Paso Ancho
PO Box 1242-1007
Centro Colon, San Jose, COSTA RICA
Thoughts on the South China Sea
10/28/08
We spent the day yesterday on the ship while refueling in the harbor outside Singapore, a small island/nation on the south end of the Thai peninsula. Singapore actually looks like it would be part of peninsular Malaysia, but, like Hong Kong or the Vatican, it exists as it's own city-state. It was hot and muggy and stinky like bunker fuel and trash in the water. To get to Singapore, we had to pass through a relatively narrow shipping channel called the Straits of Malacca. This space in the world has a reputation for pirate attacks as it's a bit of a bottle neck for east-west shipping. We learned that 25% of the worlds oil is shipped through this one narrow channel. This makes for easy pickings for an ambitious and well armed modern pirate. An average tanker has a crew of about 15 people, so an organized pirate attack could easily subdue the people and take a ship. Our crew was on watch for the last few days, hatchets in hand ready to chop off any ropes, in contact with a private security firm for intel and we even had a Malaysian Navy gun boat escort in and out of Singapore harbor. No small task to organize.
We were no worse for the wear. Up through about 2005, the Malacca area experienced about 200 pirate attacks per year. Then the Singapore, Thai and Malaysian Navies got together to make the waters safe for travel and commerce. Attacks now average 12 per year thanks to these international efforts. A few of us on the ship noticed several F-16A fighters doing overflights. Most likely these are Malaysian aircraft. I'm glad for the vigilance. My friend Angie paraphrased the author George Orwell noting "I, myself, am a pacifist, but I sleep well at night knowing that brave men are willing to do violence to protect me."
We're headed north to Saigon, officially Ho Chi Minh City, named affectionately for 'Uncle Ho.' Just like with many stories in the world, there are more than two sides. Vietnam was part of China for 1000 years up through the 19th century when Japan had a foot hold. In about 1850, the French came in to colonize and shortly after the French, the American occupation began. For better or worse, there is a sense of nationalism and unity that is instilled, after a purge in the 70's, in the Vietnamese people present for having pushed through all this occupation. We've learned that Vietnam has opened up economically and is more or less friendly to tourists (and their dollars). Aside from petty problems expected while travelling, I'm really looking forward to this visit. Heather has organized a 3 day tour of the Mekong Delta area, so we're beefed up (and side-affected) on the anti-Malarial meds. I'm hoping to see some of the Cu Chi (city) tunnels that were used during the wartime period (1956-1977). I hear that some of the tunnels have been excavated to accommodate larger westerners:) phew.
Looking back a few days I feel like the visit to the country of Malaysia was a nice break between India and Vietnam. As I mentioned before, India was a mad house of stimuli, highly visceral in the sights, smells, air, noise, pace and smiles...India gets into your skin, you breath it's diesel fumes, you smell it's detrius, you taste the best and unique flavors of the food. By comparison, Malyasia is a resort town. There is some dirt and grime if you look for it, but the taxi's and busses are safe and efficient, the post office is safe and efficient, the food on the street is safe and efficient, etc. You get the picture. The most dangerous thing was not stepping into the 2 foot deep uncovered stormwater drains on the sides of the streets. I went into Malaysia with my guard up, I was leaning into another galestorm of stimuli and when we arrived, I was thrown off balance by the ease with which we were able to get around, find food and even interact with people on the street. I'm happy for the respite.
Heather and I are learning a lot about each other on this voyage too. Thanks to Mom and Dad for your words of encouragment and your prayers. The prayers help in a 9'x14' cabin, (including the bathroom). My prayers are with you all as you continue to work and live and plan and play and learn. Home is becoming a concept more than a place and I'm glad we can at least email to keep in touch. I'm really looking forward to our visits home in December.
We spent the day yesterday on the ship while refueling in the harbor outside Singapore, a small island/nation on the south end of the Thai peninsula. Singapore actually looks like it would be part of peninsular Malaysia, but, like Hong Kong or the Vatican, it exists as it's own city-state. It was hot and muggy and stinky like bunker fuel and trash in the water. To get to Singapore, we had to pass through a relatively narrow shipping channel called the Straits of Malacca. This space in the world has a reputation for pirate attacks as it's a bit of a bottle neck for east-west shipping. We learned that 25% of the worlds oil is shipped through this one narrow channel. This makes for easy pickings for an ambitious and well armed modern pirate. An average tanker has a crew of about 15 people, so an organized pirate attack could easily subdue the people and take a ship. Our crew was on watch for the last few days, hatchets in hand ready to chop off any ropes, in contact with a private security firm for intel and we even had a Malaysian Navy gun boat escort in and out of Singapore harbor. No small task to organize.
We were no worse for the wear. Up through about 2005, the Malacca area experienced about 200 pirate attacks per year. Then the Singapore, Thai and Malaysian Navies got together to make the waters safe for travel and commerce. Attacks now average 12 per year thanks to these international efforts. A few of us on the ship noticed several F-16A fighters doing overflights. Most likely these are Malaysian aircraft. I'm glad for the vigilance. My friend Angie paraphrased the author George Orwell noting "I, myself, am a pacifist, but I sleep well at night knowing that brave men are willing to do violence to protect me."
We're headed north to Saigon, officially Ho Chi Minh City, named affectionately for 'Uncle Ho.' Just like with many stories in the world, there are more than two sides. Vietnam was part of China for 1000 years up through the 19th century when Japan had a foot hold. In about 1850, the French came in to colonize and shortly after the French, the American occupation began. For better or worse, there is a sense of nationalism and unity that is instilled, after a purge in the 70's, in the Vietnamese people present for having pushed through all this occupation. We've learned that Vietnam has opened up economically and is more or less friendly to tourists (and their dollars). Aside from petty problems expected while travelling, I'm really looking forward to this visit. Heather has organized a 3 day tour of the Mekong Delta area, so we're beefed up (and side-affected) on the anti-Malarial meds. I'm hoping to see some of the Cu Chi (city) tunnels that were used during the wartime period (1956-1977). I hear that some of the tunnels have been excavated to accommodate larger westerners:) phew.
Looking back a few days I feel like the visit to the country of Malaysia was a nice break between India and Vietnam. As I mentioned before, India was a mad house of stimuli, highly visceral in the sights, smells, air, noise, pace and smiles...India gets into your skin, you breath it's diesel fumes, you smell it's detrius, you taste the best and unique flavors of the food. By comparison, Malyasia is a resort town. There is some dirt and grime if you look for it, but the taxi's and busses are safe and efficient, the post office is safe and efficient, the food on the street is safe and efficient, etc. You get the picture. The most dangerous thing was not stepping into the 2 foot deep uncovered stormwater drains on the sides of the streets. I went into Malaysia with my guard up, I was leaning into another galestorm of stimuli and when we arrived, I was thrown off balance by the ease with which we were able to get around, find food and even interact with people on the street. I'm happy for the respite.
Heather and I are learning a lot about each other on this voyage too. Thanks to Mom and Dad for your words of encouragment and your prayers. The prayers help in a 9'x14' cabin, (including the bathroom). My prayers are with you all as you continue to work and live and plan and play and learn. Home is becoming a concept more than a place and I'm glad we can at least email to keep in touch. I'm really looking forward to our visits home in December.
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Penag-A-Ranga & Pictures
I said some prayers and lit some candles at a Catholic Church and Buddhist temples while in Penang for Unk (great uncle Ed), who’s not doing so well with stage four Leukemia. Please keep him and my great-Aunt Jean in your thoughts and prayers in the coming days and weeks.
I heard from mom that it’s cooling off in the Midwest, back in the U.S.A. I'm actually a bit jealous of your 45 degree weather, in that I wouldn't be sweating thinking about taking a walk. Heather and I sweat on and walked all around the Georgetown and North areas of Penang, and enjoyed the sights and tastes of this old trading post of the Brits. The people there are a mix of Malay (locals) Indians and Chinese. We ate lots of street food and met some nice folks and on the flip side, actually saw an American movie, called Eagle Eye. It's a good suspense/thriller with lots of shoot-em up action and a nice escape to 'back home'. It is set in Chicago, Indy and D.C., so we were all too familiar with the setting and enjoying the break.
We learned the bus system and took advantage for thin fractions of taxi prices, making for many gift buying opportunities:) Christmas is coming! Heard from Jeanne about hosting Christmas dinner via an email invitation. Received letters from both Jeanne and Katy in the snail mail in Malaysia. It's really nice to get mail, so we're enjoying the personal touch and connection. Mom has inspired them well to write letters:) Hearing about the little kids is great too as they grow and join activities and really run the roost. Were we all like that? involved and engaged and busy? looking back, I can only say: Probably.
Penang Island, named for the Pinang Tree (like a palm) is also known as a Betel Nut Tree, giving a small, bitter tasting nut as a fruit. Lots of bitter fruit on this island, but none more pungent than the Diurion Fruit. My suggestion is not to try any chocolate covered diurion.
We will meet up with my sister Elyse in Honolulu for some turkey and Heather's cousin, David, in Shanghai. We'll stay with David, wife and three kids one night in Shanghai. He's having his company (Hewlett/Packard or Microsoft) driver take us around town for the day:) very swanky We'll take it. We've been hoofing it around and jumping taxi's and busses and motorbikes and rickshaws for 4 ports so it'll be nice to have someone who knows the city and isn't trying to swindle us.
Vietnam is up next, three quick sailing days and we land in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City). We'll see and smell what we can for a few days and then take a bicycle tour, with van support and hotels, around the Me Kong River Delta, to the south of Saigon. I'm really looking forward to this excursion and visiting Vietnam. So many stories and from the reading we've been doing, it sounds like an enchanted and hungry place. Not starving, but hungry for progress, change, growth and a better life. Something to which we can all look forward
Keep well,
Bill
***********
As Bill mentioned, we enjoyed some quiet time in Malaysia. It was wonderful to do so much walking around the vendor-lined streets of Chinatown and Little India. Georgetown is lovely and full of great food and sight-seeing. The Indian Festival of Lights (Deepvaldi) was officially today so we were witness to lots of preparation and good cheer both in Chennai and Penang.
Had a lovely time at a very large Chinese temple - Kek Lok Si Temple - while in Malaysia. It is one of the largest in Southeast Asia and worth the time to wander around and say a few prayers. I would love to see the temple in February during the Chinese New Year, all lit-up and enchanting.
Also really enjoyed a day spent hiking in a national park on Penang Island with our friends Ed and Barbara Sobey, Laxmi and Caroline Tewari and Arman Rosencranz. They are a fun group and full of laughs and stories. We all rode the bus to the park and hiked an hour through the jungle to Monkey Beach (where there were only a few monkeys - two of whom cornered Bill & I as we were trying to leave the beach. They seemed in search of food and thought for certain the camera was a handout).
Preparing ourselves for another stop - Viet Nam should be really great. We'll be doing a 3-day bicycle trip with 4 SAS friends through the Mekong Delta. We will supposedly be traveling by boat down the river at parts and stopping at some of the floating markets. Looking forward to this.
Thanks for the letters and emails! We love them!!
Michelle - got your email and saw your comments - thanks! I will try to write you back tomorrow. There were loads of wild dogs in India - everywhere. The dogs, goats and cows pretty much gleen the trash in India and make certain that nothing goes to waste. I'm glad that Julian liked his birthday card - I loved hearing that he carried it around all week.
I've put up some pictures from Malaysia:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
I hope you're all well. I have to run.
Miss and love you!!!
heather ;)
I heard from mom that it’s cooling off in the Midwest, back in the U.S.A. I'm actually a bit jealous of your 45 degree weather, in that I wouldn't be sweating thinking about taking a walk. Heather and I sweat on and walked all around the Georgetown and North areas of Penang, and enjoyed the sights and tastes of this old trading post of the Brits. The people there are a mix of Malay (locals) Indians and Chinese. We ate lots of street food and met some nice folks and on the flip side, actually saw an American movie, called Eagle Eye. It's a good suspense/thriller with lots of shoot-em up action and a nice escape to 'back home'. It is set in Chicago, Indy and D.C., so we were all too familiar with the setting and enjoying the break.
We learned the bus system and took advantage for thin fractions of taxi prices, making for many gift buying opportunities:) Christmas is coming! Heard from Jeanne about hosting Christmas dinner via an email invitation. Received letters from both Jeanne and Katy in the snail mail in Malaysia. It's really nice to get mail, so we're enjoying the personal touch and connection. Mom has inspired them well to write letters:) Hearing about the little kids is great too as they grow and join activities and really run the roost. Were we all like that? involved and engaged and busy? looking back, I can only say: Probably.
Penang Island, named for the Pinang Tree (like a palm) is also known as a Betel Nut Tree, giving a small, bitter tasting nut as a fruit. Lots of bitter fruit on this island, but none more pungent than the Diurion Fruit. My suggestion is not to try any chocolate covered diurion.
We will meet up with my sister Elyse in Honolulu for some turkey and Heather's cousin, David, in Shanghai. We'll stay with David, wife and three kids one night in Shanghai. He's having his company (Hewlett/Packard or Microsoft) driver take us around town for the day:) very swanky We'll take it. We've been hoofing it around and jumping taxi's and busses and motorbikes and rickshaws for 4 ports so it'll be nice to have someone who knows the city and isn't trying to swindle us.
Vietnam is up next, three quick sailing days and we land in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City). We'll see and smell what we can for a few days and then take a bicycle tour, with van support and hotels, around the Me Kong River Delta, to the south of Saigon. I'm really looking forward to this excursion and visiting Vietnam. So many stories and from the reading we've been doing, it sounds like an enchanted and hungry place. Not starving, but hungry for progress, change, growth and a better life. Something to which we can all look forward
Keep well,
Bill
***********
As Bill mentioned, we enjoyed some quiet time in Malaysia. It was wonderful to do so much walking around the vendor-lined streets of Chinatown and Little India. Georgetown is lovely and full of great food and sight-seeing. The Indian Festival of Lights (Deepvaldi) was officially today so we were witness to lots of preparation and good cheer both in Chennai and Penang.
Had a lovely time at a very large Chinese temple - Kek Lok Si Temple - while in Malaysia. It is one of the largest in Southeast Asia and worth the time to wander around and say a few prayers. I would love to see the temple in February during the Chinese New Year, all lit-up and enchanting.
Also really enjoyed a day spent hiking in a national park on Penang Island with our friends Ed and Barbara Sobey, Laxmi and Caroline Tewari and Arman Rosencranz. They are a fun group and full of laughs and stories. We all rode the bus to the park and hiked an hour through the jungle to Monkey Beach (where there were only a few monkeys - two of whom cornered Bill & I as we were trying to leave the beach. They seemed in search of food and thought for certain the camera was a handout).
Preparing ourselves for another stop - Viet Nam should be really great. We'll be doing a 3-day bicycle trip with 4 SAS friends through the Mekong Delta. We will supposedly be traveling by boat down the river at parts and stopping at some of the floating markets. Looking forward to this.
Thanks for the letters and emails! We love them!!
Michelle - got your email and saw your comments - thanks! I will try to write you back tomorrow. There were loads of wild dogs in India - everywhere. The dogs, goats and cows pretty much gleen the trash in India and make certain that nothing goes to waste. I'm glad that Julian liked his birthday card - I loved hearing that he carried it around all week.
I've put up some pictures from Malaysia:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
I hope you're all well. I have to run.
Miss and love you!!!
heather ;)
Monday, October 20, 2008
Incredible, Intense India
“It is said that a person can say whatever they want about India. And the opposite is also true.”
-American Diplomat to India, Oct. 2008
On Driving in India (from a U.S. Perspective, of course)
The drivers here are truly living on the edge of safety! Anyone of them, if they drove in the U.S. would kill someone and then be instantly killed by their own behaviors. There is no way to anticipate anyone's move in traffic and any two-lane road is simultaneously occupied, across, by
1. Several people standing in the lane waving down busses (there are no bus lanes)
2. Two motorcycles, two three-wheeled rickshaw's (big golf carts)
3. And any number of full sized city busses or lorry's (dump trucks).
4. Traffic from the oncoming lane (yep, in your lane, coming at you!)
Everyone passes and everyone honks when they pass to let you know they see you and are not going to hit you (honking is actually the one useful thing about the system). People pass on both sides and regularly pass in the on coming lanes, flashing their headlights and swerving in and out. From above, I'd like to see the flow, because it seems to work, although there are large numbers of pedestrian/traffic deaths everyday. I had to stop watching today due to my nerves, while on a motor coach bus, because every time I'd look up from a book, I'd see a large truck coming straight toward us...
On Food and Sport
It was Awesome! Spicy and full of flavor, every bite gave me a sense of adventure. And by adventure, I mean that I’d have an equal chance of truly enjoying the digestive process and truly abhorring that same experience. It is true one cannot trust the water to be safe, so Heather and I did not. We drank bottled water and sodas. The coffee was good, the cha’i was good, the tea was good. Did you know that the British, famous for their tea, received the gift of tea from India during their long occupation? What a blessing. And as we know, the same tea was of much debate during the infamous Boston Tea Party…and I heard that Boston is partying again for a team that has made a bit of a streak out of this winning business. Of course, as October, 2008 becomes another memory of a chance for the Chicago Cubs, I must lament another winning season of baseball only to be wasted in the postseason. On a lighter note, the Indian Cricket followers have much to celebrate as their top player, a 19 yr. veteran, broke the scoring record for runs in a lifetime at 12,000+ this week. We saved a few clippings from the English, Tamil and Hindi language papers.
On Color in India
The weather is hot, so the colors look brighter and the dingy looks dingier. Perhaps it’s the heat radiating off the street that makes the waves around my sun/heat stroked eyes see exaggerated color, but I truly enjoyed the color anyway. The silk saree’s (or sari’s) and salwar kameez’s were beautiful, even if there isn’t a size 46 salwar kameez anywhere in the country;) too bad for me, but it makes sense as it was rare to see an Indian over 5’10” high. I think the air keeps people smaller, that and the shortage of food in poor and/or rural parts of the country. The auto rickshaws, almost all yellow, are a ubiquitous sight on the street, weaving and dodging constantly. The two-wheelers (motorcycles) many times with 3-4 people on them, including a family with a toddler or infant in arms, sitting side saddle, also added flashes of yellow, orange, red, burgundy, brilliant purple, bright green and every mix of color and accent one can imagine to the visual landscape. In a background, one could see a celeste (mint) green bicycle, a bright red ‘Coca-Cola’ sign, a purple and pink city bus, a bright blue lorry (dumptruck) and some kind of bicycle!
On bicycles…
Bicycles, and I use the term generally to include the many working tricycles and working bikes, are everywhere, functional, and fascinating! The British left behind a legacy of brit-style touring/commuter bikes, fenders, bells and short handlebars cuff locks on the back wheels. A few more modern mountain bikes are on the streets, but don’t seem to hold up as well as the older ones. The working bikes are awesome and consist of a tricycle frame with a large basket on the back for hauling. Heather and I saw a lot of them in our travels around the towns. On different bikes, we saw the following (this is not, by any means, an exhaustive list): chickens for sale (about 20), 4-5 people, a full sized refrigerator, several large sacks of rice (think 40lbs), fruit, neatly stacked in a pyramid of oranges or Asian bananas, sleeping children, spare parts, water pipe, construction materials including bricks, mortar and lumber, raw granite for stone carving, rolls or bolts of silk and rolled up carpets.
On Reflections
By the end of 5 days, my lungs were a bit blackened with two-stroke and diesel fumes, my senses were overwhelmed by the stimuli and speed, my body was exhausted by the heat and movement and my soul was filled with the friendliness of a nation of self determined and aware people, making their way through a world full of choices.
Mahalo,
Bill
-American Diplomat to India, Oct. 2008
On Driving in India (from a U.S. Perspective, of course)
The drivers here are truly living on the edge of safety! Anyone of them, if they drove in the U.S. would kill someone and then be instantly killed by their own behaviors. There is no way to anticipate anyone's move in traffic and any two-lane road is simultaneously occupied, across, by
1. Several people standing in the lane waving down busses (there are no bus lanes)
2. Two motorcycles, two three-wheeled rickshaw's (big golf carts)
3. And any number of full sized city busses or lorry's (dump trucks).
4. Traffic from the oncoming lane (yep, in your lane, coming at you!)
Everyone passes and everyone honks when they pass to let you know they see you and are not going to hit you (honking is actually the one useful thing about the system). People pass on both sides and regularly pass in the on coming lanes, flashing their headlights and swerving in and out. From above, I'd like to see the flow, because it seems to work, although there are large numbers of pedestrian/traffic deaths everyday. I had to stop watching today due to my nerves, while on a motor coach bus, because every time I'd look up from a book, I'd see a large truck coming straight toward us...
On Food and Sport
It was Awesome! Spicy and full of flavor, every bite gave me a sense of adventure. And by adventure, I mean that I’d have an equal chance of truly enjoying the digestive process and truly abhorring that same experience. It is true one cannot trust the water to be safe, so Heather and I did not. We drank bottled water and sodas. The coffee was good, the cha’i was good, the tea was good. Did you know that the British, famous for their tea, received the gift of tea from India during their long occupation? What a blessing. And as we know, the same tea was of much debate during the infamous Boston Tea Party…and I heard that Boston is partying again for a team that has made a bit of a streak out of this winning business. Of course, as October, 2008 becomes another memory of a chance for the Chicago Cubs, I must lament another winning season of baseball only to be wasted in the postseason. On a lighter note, the Indian Cricket followers have much to celebrate as their top player, a 19 yr. veteran, broke the scoring record for runs in a lifetime at 12,000+ this week. We saved a few clippings from the English, Tamil and Hindi language papers.
On Color in India
The weather is hot, so the colors look brighter and the dingy looks dingier. Perhaps it’s the heat radiating off the street that makes the waves around my sun/heat stroked eyes see exaggerated color, but I truly enjoyed the color anyway. The silk saree’s (or sari’s) and salwar kameez’s were beautiful, even if there isn’t a size 46 salwar kameez anywhere in the country;) too bad for me, but it makes sense as it was rare to see an Indian over 5’10” high. I think the air keeps people smaller, that and the shortage of food in poor and/or rural parts of the country. The auto rickshaws, almost all yellow, are a ubiquitous sight on the street, weaving and dodging constantly. The two-wheelers (motorcycles) many times with 3-4 people on them, including a family with a toddler or infant in arms, sitting side saddle, also added flashes of yellow, orange, red, burgundy, brilliant purple, bright green and every mix of color and accent one can imagine to the visual landscape. In a background, one could see a celeste (mint) green bicycle, a bright red ‘Coca-Cola’ sign, a purple and pink city bus, a bright blue lorry (dumptruck) and some kind of bicycle!
On bicycles…
Bicycles, and I use the term generally to include the many working tricycles and working bikes, are everywhere, functional, and fascinating! The British left behind a legacy of brit-style touring/commuter bikes, fenders, bells and short handlebars cuff locks on the back wheels. A few more modern mountain bikes are on the streets, but don’t seem to hold up as well as the older ones. The working bikes are awesome and consist of a tricycle frame with a large basket on the back for hauling. Heather and I saw a lot of them in our travels around the towns. On different bikes, we saw the following (this is not, by any means, an exhaustive list): chickens for sale (about 20), 4-5 people, a full sized refrigerator, several large sacks of rice (think 40lbs), fruit, neatly stacked in a pyramid of oranges or Asian bananas, sleeping children, spare parts, water pipe, construction materials including bricks, mortar and lumber, raw granite for stone carving, rolls or bolts of silk and rolled up carpets.
On Reflections
By the end of 5 days, my lungs were a bit blackened with two-stroke and diesel fumes, my senses were overwhelmed by the stimuli and speed, my body was exhausted by the heat and movement and my soul was filled with the friendliness of a nation of self determined and aware people, making their way through a world full of choices.
Mahalo,
Bill
Honks & Head-bobs
We are sailing through the Nicobar Islands this evening. These islands are actually part of India, though we are really off the coasts of Sumatra, Malaysia and Thailand. The weather is still muggy and warm and the sun is shining. I saw my first pod of dolphins from the ship yesterday afternoon, just outside our cabin window. There must have been 30 dolphins in the group – so exciting.
As we move away from India, I am recalling the myriad sights, sounds, and smells that we encountered – a sensory-loaded experience that was like no other. India is truly a visceral place. You cannot move about the country without tasting the spices, smog and sweat in the air. And the smiles of the people you meet are infectious.
One of the diplomats who gave us a briefing on the morning of our arrival mentioned the quote (I forget by whom) – “Whatever you can say about India, the reverse is true.” So aptly put! For all the warmth and generosity of the people, there are so many without any material possessions and without food. For all the dirt and trash, there is a vivid beauty in the bright textiles and shrines. I was utterly amazed by the women, wearing their gorgeous, richly-colored, silk sarees. It’s as if they do not sweat or get their clothing dirty as they move about their day, commuting to work or sweeping the ground. A very dignified people.
Upon our arrival, Bill & I darted onto land as soon as was possible and hopped into a rickshaw and then into an auto-rickshaw (2-stroke, 3-wheeled and very fun). Our driver, Rama, took us to a few shops – it seems that many of the auto-rickshaw drivers are paid a commission to bring tourists to specific shops. We figured this out and were actually impressed with the amount of networking that occurs between various factions of society – a thoughtful and practical way to make some extra cash. Rama wanted to take us to a cobra/mongoose fight but we adamantly declined, multiple times. We found that folks are very persistent in India and you often have to repeat yourself or walk away. Rama drove on and we headed out of town to Mamallapuram for the night.
Mamallapuram has been deemed a World Heritage Site and it is full of very old temples and some amazing bas-relief stone carvings. It’s also on the coast so there is a lively fishing industry and we walked the beach among all the small fishing boats that had come in for the night. The coastline of eastern India was hit hard by the tsunami in December 2004. Some 3,000 people were killed in Chennai and more in Mamallapuram. We could see the rebuilt shops and homes as we walked the beach and the government housing that was built immediately following the tsunami for those that lost their homes. Some of the small fishing vessels had USAID or Red Cross painted across the stern.
The second day we returned to the ship – Bill had duty from 8pm to 8am. We wanted to head further south to Pondicherry but time did not allow. We had actually signed up for one of our few SAS trips on this whole trip. This one was an overnight visit to Kanchipuram – a town about 75km from Chennai. We were hosted by an NGO called Rural Institute of Development Education (RIDE). It’s been around since 1984 and their focus was initially on relieving child labor from silk factories. Their work now also includes working to relieve child labor in the stonecutting business as well as supporting small groups, called “Self Help Groups”, that are intended to encourage and scaffold projects like small-business loans, personal home loans, etc.
We visited with a group of RIDE women in a small village outside of Kanchipuram and were treated to a very warm welcome and tour of the area. We had the opportunity to see some of the local homes and huts. The village was separated into two sections – one for the Dalit (untouchable) people and the other for a different, higher caste. I was told that this is common in the more rural areas. In Chennai, the closest thing to caste housing that I witnessed were the shantytowns tucked under bridges or along the rivers. The poverty is indescribable really. As with all of these ports, the images and interactions are still sifting through me.
Upon returning to Chennai, Bill & I headed into town for dinner and in search of some more really great food. South Indian food is amazing and we shared a meal with two young men at a very popular chain called Saravana Bhavan (there is one in the bay area that we’ll have to search out upon our return to California). The two men were brothers, one just finished with university and the other in his last year of high school. We had a great time chatting with them and comparing stories. After dinner, we tried to catch a movie at one of the many theaters (movies are very big in India) but the show was sold out.
We ventured out early on our last day in town, meeting our driver at 9am. Rama sent us off with a different driver, Purush, whom we had met on our second day. He took very good care of us that last day – helping us to order a few photo prints for some of Bill’s students, making certain we purchased the correct postage at the post office and showing us a few more shops so that we could purchase some last-minute souvenirs. We had lunch at a place called Mocha – very Latin feeling, actually, with outdoor seating and brightly colored walls. I had a lovely cup of chai and Bill enjoyed some Indian Peaberry coffee. We also indulged in an amazing dark chocolate dessert and some yummy sandwiches. Afterward it was time to head back to the ship.
Some of my favorite things about India:
*butter paneer masala & as much garlic naan as we could eat
*lime sodas
*The head-bobbing!! South Indians nod their head as they listen, much like we do in the US – except they nod from side to side, moving with their chin.
*horns – when driving, everyone honks to let you know they are behind you or coming at you. There is very little, if any, aggression despite the insane amount of things on the roadway including bicycles, large buses, people, and cows.
*the dhotis (long pieces of cloth wrapped at the waist, like a skirt – worn by men) and the sarees
*the colorful cattle horns painted red and green and adorned with bells
*the spirituality of the country, in general
*bikes, bikes, bikes!
I’ve put up some photos to our webpage:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Enjoy!
Thanks, Woody & Joy, for your letter! And Elyse – thanks for your letter and the notes from your students! We sent you a number of response letters written by us and some of the Red Sea students.
Happy Birthday, Julian!
And Happy Belated Birthday, Ed Paco!
Much love,
heather ;)
As we move away from India, I am recalling the myriad sights, sounds, and smells that we encountered – a sensory-loaded experience that was like no other. India is truly a visceral place. You cannot move about the country without tasting the spices, smog and sweat in the air. And the smiles of the people you meet are infectious.
One of the diplomats who gave us a briefing on the morning of our arrival mentioned the quote (I forget by whom) – “Whatever you can say about India, the reverse is true.” So aptly put! For all the warmth and generosity of the people, there are so many without any material possessions and without food. For all the dirt and trash, there is a vivid beauty in the bright textiles and shrines. I was utterly amazed by the women, wearing their gorgeous, richly-colored, silk sarees. It’s as if they do not sweat or get their clothing dirty as they move about their day, commuting to work or sweeping the ground. A very dignified people.
Upon our arrival, Bill & I darted onto land as soon as was possible and hopped into a rickshaw and then into an auto-rickshaw (2-stroke, 3-wheeled and very fun). Our driver, Rama, took us to a few shops – it seems that many of the auto-rickshaw drivers are paid a commission to bring tourists to specific shops. We figured this out and were actually impressed with the amount of networking that occurs between various factions of society – a thoughtful and practical way to make some extra cash. Rama wanted to take us to a cobra/mongoose fight but we adamantly declined, multiple times. We found that folks are very persistent in India and you often have to repeat yourself or walk away. Rama drove on and we headed out of town to Mamallapuram for the night.
Mamallapuram has been deemed a World Heritage Site and it is full of very old temples and some amazing bas-relief stone carvings. It’s also on the coast so there is a lively fishing industry and we walked the beach among all the small fishing boats that had come in for the night. The coastline of eastern India was hit hard by the tsunami in December 2004. Some 3,000 people were killed in Chennai and more in Mamallapuram. We could see the rebuilt shops and homes as we walked the beach and the government housing that was built immediately following the tsunami for those that lost their homes. Some of the small fishing vessels had USAID or Red Cross painted across the stern.
The second day we returned to the ship – Bill had duty from 8pm to 8am. We wanted to head further south to Pondicherry but time did not allow. We had actually signed up for one of our few SAS trips on this whole trip. This one was an overnight visit to Kanchipuram – a town about 75km from Chennai. We were hosted by an NGO called Rural Institute of Development Education (RIDE). It’s been around since 1984 and their focus was initially on relieving child labor from silk factories. Their work now also includes working to relieve child labor in the stonecutting business as well as supporting small groups, called “Self Help Groups”, that are intended to encourage and scaffold projects like small-business loans, personal home loans, etc.
We visited with a group of RIDE women in a small village outside of Kanchipuram and were treated to a very warm welcome and tour of the area. We had the opportunity to see some of the local homes and huts. The village was separated into two sections – one for the Dalit (untouchable) people and the other for a different, higher caste. I was told that this is common in the more rural areas. In Chennai, the closest thing to caste housing that I witnessed were the shantytowns tucked under bridges or along the rivers. The poverty is indescribable really. As with all of these ports, the images and interactions are still sifting through me.
Upon returning to Chennai, Bill & I headed into town for dinner and in search of some more really great food. South Indian food is amazing and we shared a meal with two young men at a very popular chain called Saravana Bhavan (there is one in the bay area that we’ll have to search out upon our return to California). The two men were brothers, one just finished with university and the other in his last year of high school. We had a great time chatting with them and comparing stories. After dinner, we tried to catch a movie at one of the many theaters (movies are very big in India) but the show was sold out.
We ventured out early on our last day in town, meeting our driver at 9am. Rama sent us off with a different driver, Purush, whom we had met on our second day. He took very good care of us that last day – helping us to order a few photo prints for some of Bill’s students, making certain we purchased the correct postage at the post office and showing us a few more shops so that we could purchase some last-minute souvenirs. We had lunch at a place called Mocha – very Latin feeling, actually, with outdoor seating and brightly colored walls. I had a lovely cup of chai and Bill enjoyed some Indian Peaberry coffee. We also indulged in an amazing dark chocolate dessert and some yummy sandwiches. Afterward it was time to head back to the ship.
Some of my favorite things about India:
*butter paneer masala & as much garlic naan as we could eat
*lime sodas
*The head-bobbing!! South Indians nod their head as they listen, much like we do in the US – except they nod from side to side, moving with their chin.
*horns – when driving, everyone honks to let you know they are behind you or coming at you. There is very little, if any, aggression despite the insane amount of things on the roadway including bicycles, large buses, people, and cows.
*the dhotis (long pieces of cloth wrapped at the waist, like a skirt – worn by men) and the sarees
*the colorful cattle horns painted red and green and adorned with bells
*the spirituality of the country, in general
*bikes, bikes, bikes!
I’ve put up some photos to our webpage:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Enjoy!
Thanks, Woody & Joy, for your letter! And Elyse – thanks for your letter and the notes from your students! We sent you a number of response letters written by us and some of the Red Sea students.
Happy Birthday, Julian!
And Happy Belated Birthday, Ed Paco!
Much love,
heather ;)
Friday, October 10, 2008
Ship email and posting comments on our blog
Hello!
Yes, we can see your posted comments and we love them! Keep 'em coming - it helps us remember that folks are actually reading our rambling blog postings.
Just a few reminders:
Shipboard email (Intranet - so we can access all the time):
hricks@semesteratsea.net
wheinrich@semesteratsea.net
Photo site (you can post comments on that one too):
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
We are 4 nights from India - very exciting! The Indian Ocean has been very pretty, though yesterday was quite rough. This was especially unfortunate as it was not only Yom Kippur but also our shipboard Sea Olympics festivities. Synchronized Swimming became "Synchronized Dance" in our Union as the seas were too big to fill the pool (too dangerous). A few other events had to be slightly modified but the day went off without a hitch.
Perhaps Bill will have some time to write about the whole thing. Putting together this day was one of his primary responsibilities as the Recreation LLC (Living Learning Coordinator). He and the committee did a fantastic job. The Yellow Sea took the gold. Our Red Sea won the Flag design competition, Dodge ball and placed in other events. We also tied for second for our Chant/Mascot. Lots of spirit on our deck!
I'm off to dinner.
Love to you all,
heather ;)
Yes, we can see your posted comments and we love them! Keep 'em coming - it helps us remember that folks are actually reading our rambling blog postings.
Just a few reminders:
Shipboard email (Intranet - so we can access all the time):
hricks@semesteratsea.net
wheinrich@semesteratsea.net
Photo site (you can post comments on that one too):
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
We are 4 nights from India - very exciting! The Indian Ocean has been very pretty, though yesterday was quite rough. This was especially unfortunate as it was not only Yom Kippur but also our shipboard Sea Olympics festivities. Synchronized Swimming became "Synchronized Dance" in our Union as the seas were too big to fill the pool (too dangerous). A few other events had to be slightly modified but the day went off without a hitch.
Perhaps Bill will have some time to write about the whole thing. Putting together this day was one of his primary responsibilities as the Recreation LLC (Living Learning Coordinator). He and the committee did a fantastic job. The Yellow Sea took the gold. Our Red Sea won the Flag design competition, Dodge ball and placed in other events. We also tied for second for our Chant/Mascot. Lots of spirit on our deck!
I'm off to dinner.
Love to you all,
heather ;)
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Seductively Beautiful Cape Town
The alarm clock rang at 5:30am and Bill and I dragged ourselves up onto one elbow to peer out our portside window for any view of land. Lucky for us, we were traveling south along the South African coastline from Namibia. Sunrise was not until 6:30am but the local pilot was to board our ship at 5am for a 6:30 docking. We certainly did not want to miss the potentially dramatic arrival into Cape Town with the sun rising behind Table Mountain. Alas, after making our way to the front and top of the ship, in the warm confines of the Faculty/Staff Lounge, we found our view to be clouded with gray mist and faraway lights off the portside. As we watched, we seemed to be sailing right past the lights and the dim outline of the great, flat-top mountain that stretches almost to the waterline. We continued past the lights and turned out toward the ocean, rocking and rolling with the rough waves. It seemed, the water was too rough and we had to circle a bit out in the deeper water. Eventually, we came around full circle and headed toward the Cape Town harbor from a more southerly direction and could begin to make out the details of the coastal city and neighboring towns.
As we made our way closer to the narrow channel that we would negotiate in order to enter the Waterfront, we passed low-lying Robben Island on our port side, home to many political prisoners during the Apartheid era including Nelson Mandela. In contrast, our starboard view began to unveil large, beautiful homes built into the cliffs along the Atlantic seaboard – communities like Sea Point and Clifton that were historically white only. Already, Cape Town was welcoming us into her troubled racial history. We arrived dockside at Jetty #2 in the Victoria & Albert Waterfront and it felt like Pier 39 in San Francisco. Full of shops, restaurants and companies advertising various outings such as helicopter rides, 1-day safari tours, champagne cruises and shark-cage diving, the Waterfront was beautiful and colorful. It felt very safe and very Western. Complete with food from around the world, the only thing missing (thankfully) was a Starbucks.
Behind the Waterfront sat the skyscrapers of the City Centre/Bo-Kaap supported by the dramatic backdrop of Table Mountain, flanked on the left by Devil’s Peak and on the right by Lion’s Head and Signal Hill. The latter is only 1000 feet high and was used by the early Dutch settlers – as a new ship would approach the Cape, a flag would be raised to alert the shopkeepers to ready their goods for sale. On the second day of our stay, Bill and I walked to the top of Signal Hill with our friends, Ed & Barbara Sobey. As we approached the saddle between Signal Hill and Lion’s Head from the west (ocean side), we kept our ears open for the guttural sounds of baboons (just in case) and we were pleasantly surprised by the totally unexpected sound of prayers being sung. As we drew nearer to the top of Signal Hill we passed an old mosque and a few marked graves. There were two men in different spots singing songs of mourning.
After leaving the Sobeys to pick their way back down the hill to our ship, Bill and I turned around and walked back past the mosque and up the path toward Lion’s Head. *If you look at www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com you can find this peak – it’s very pointed on the top. Signal Hill is affectionately called the Lion’s Rump* It took us just over an hour until we sat atop, munching on our PB&J sandwiches and chocolate cookies. The last 30 minutes we scrambled up ladders and chain-supported sections with hand-holds pounded into the rock. It was a steep, steep and exposed top. Felt a bit like climbing Mt. Katahdin in central Maine.
When we were well-rested, we set off down Lion’s Head only this time we wanted to head southeast toward the main approach to Table Mountain. We skirted the large, massive mountain on its west side as we walked the Pipe Track under the Twelve Apostles (a series of peaks that stretch down toward the tip of the Cape Peninsula). We found our route up, called The Diagonal. Turns out that the trail builders in South Africa like to go straight up, with little to no switchbacks. We started literally climbing rock stairs up into a drainage we were to follow south around multiple buttresses. At one point, the trail directed us at a good 60 degree angle up Porcupine Ravine. We picked our way along the rocks, hoping to not surprise a Cape Cobra or Berg Adder sunning itself on a rock. Very long walk later, we made our way into the Valley of the Red Gods and then, finally, north again toward Echo Valley and the summit of Table Mountain.
Eight hours since leaving our ship, we sat upon the Western Table drenched and wet amidst the cool breeze and dropping temperatures. It was one of those awkward moments when you’ve drug yourself up a physically challenging route with no one around to suddenly find yourself surrounded by many people looking freshly showered and smelling clean, eating hamburgers and sipping cool drinks and shopping in the gift shop (they presumably rode the cable car). We bought two Cokes and ate our remaining sandwiches and fruit. We also rode the cable car down the hill – it was a sweet splurge.
Other moments of note from our time in Cape Town included a day spent riding the commuter train and a day spent in Stellenbosch.
Commuter Train:
We spent one day with our friend, Molly Sorice (the assistant librarian). We picked up the train from City Centre and our first stop was Muizenberg for surf. Bill ended up being the only one brave enough to face the cold water. Molly and I sat in a café and chatted while munching on some very good scones with jam and fresh cream. Bill had a 2-hour session and scratched his surfing itch. The waves were frequent and thigh-to-waist high. The crowds were very thin and he caught many waves.
We all hopped back onto the Red Line. From Muizenberg the train line follows the coast, sometimes sitting only a few feet from the water. We stopped in Kalk Bay, just 2 more stops down the track. We quickly found the original Cape to Cuba restaurant tucked against the train tracks in this quaint town. It reminded me of Ciao Bella with all the eclectic furniture and artwork. Everything in the restaurant has been imported from Cuba, Russia and another place I cannot recall. The food was soooo good. Spicy and warm, washed down with beer from Havana.
From there, we trained it to Simon’s Town. Along this last 20 minutes, we spotted five or six Right Whales as they rolled along the coastline only 30 feet from shore. We also spotted two shark fins cruising past! In Simon’s Town we walked 3km to a wonderful treat, The Tibetan Teahouse, where we sat on a balcony overlooking the water and drank pots of chai and coffee with warm milk. Next we set off for Boulders Beach to see the colony of Jackass Penguins – so freakin’ cute.
Stellenbosch:
This was one of our few SAS trips – we went first to Stellenbosch University and were led around campus by a student, Lieb, for a tour. We were then treated to a very interesting lecture about the university system in SA, particularly post-Apartheid. Following this, we were driven out to Denheim Vineyards for a wine cellar tour and tasting with lunch. So lovely and beautiful, despite the rainy day. A day well-spent though difficult to swallow – on the way to Stellenbosch (about 30 minutes drive, in the winelands that are nestled just outside of Cape Town proper), I had my first glimpse of the townships. We drove, in our luxury tour buses, along a normal-looking highway – 2 lanes on either side and similar to our larger roads in the US. I had seen pictures and movies about South Africa’s townships but I was still under-prepared emotionally for the reality of the lack of housing resources that these communities have been historically given. Bill and I both made a conscious choice to not participate in any Township Tours, either with SAS or with local companies. It felt like taking a tour of historically poor neighborhoods in the States – very contrived. However, I felt torn by a responsibility to see these living, breathing spaces. For that I am grateful for a small glimpse from the bus. I am still processing and considering the economic apartheid that still exists in South Africa.
Similarly, during our numerous outings I was often reminded that just 14 years ago most of Cape Town's citizens were unable to visit the same places I was seeing. Table Mountain and the beaches, for example, were white-only during Apartheid. And the commuter train we took to Simon's Town was histocially a "black" train as it was mostly used by domestic-working women as they travelled between their homes in Cape Flats (the townships) and the white neighborhoods on the Cape Penisula. Most of these women actually lived in small rooms behind the employer's house and were only able to travel home to see their own children and families on Sundays.
Other interesting things from the last few days:
*Playing frogger as we attempted to cross the busy roads near the Waterfront - reading the traffic on the left side of the road got easier as time passed but some of the streets are really large and not pedestrian-friendly. We actually had one guy selling newspapers give us an escort across at one point - he was very sweet.
*The quaint, little French cafe that we found in the Waterkant neighborhood. We were in search of a bicycle shop/cafe that had apparently moved since our guide book was published. Le Petite Tarte was just around the corner and was a much better find, in our minds. We went back a second day for another lovely coffee and chocolate croissant. Heavenly.
*Whales, whales, whales! We've been seeing pods of Humpback whales from the ship for two days. They consist of 2-3 members and have been as close as 100 feet. I watched multiple adults breaching from the front deck of our ship a few days ago. Another spiritual experience for me. As my friend, Ed Sobey, commented, "If you are not moved by watching a whale swim through the ocean, you might not have a soul."
I am, in fact, still processing much of my visit to South Africa. It was a vibrant and full seven days. As a shipboard community, many of us are still sorting through the experience as we start to look east toward India. I’m finding there is not enough time for reflection nor the proper tools in place for the work that could be done for all members of this community. There is so much to process.
In general, the African continent treated me very well and I was very sad two nights ago to pull away from the dock in Cape Town. The south/southeast coast of South Africa has been visible from our ship for two days now. It is with a heavy heart that I wave good-bye to a place that feels like a long-lost friend. I hope and pray that I will return to some piece of this great, large, complex continent very soon.
Thanks, again, Woody for another letter. Loved your ideas for Cape Town - we didn't actually get your letter until the last day but luckily we had done most of what you suggested. But the copies of your scrapbook have given me great ideas!
We received the Falkiners card and Elyse's class letters - thank you all!!! Our cabin wall is starting to really fill up with these cards and letters and makes it feel a bit more like home.
Sarah Hoffman - Bill mentioned that you sent something to Namibia. I'm very sad that we did not receive it. Thank you for thinking of us.
We're still wondering if any of our postcards from Brasil made it to the States. We sent about 15 of them and are sad they didn't reach their intended homes.
Hope opening went well for the UCSC folks!!
Joy & Joe - Mandy (Mag) is with us now. He is so great! And he said hello to you both with smile.
Sarah - I heard that two of our dining hall crew were on the Scholarship - I'm still trying to hunt them down. We had 35 crew leave us in Cape Town and, obviously, 35 more embark so I'm still getting to know the new faces.
I'm sure there is something else I wanted to write but I will sign off for now. Much love to everyone!!
heather ;)
As we made our way closer to the narrow channel that we would negotiate in order to enter the Waterfront, we passed low-lying Robben Island on our port side, home to many political prisoners during the Apartheid era including Nelson Mandela. In contrast, our starboard view began to unveil large, beautiful homes built into the cliffs along the Atlantic seaboard – communities like Sea Point and Clifton that were historically white only. Already, Cape Town was welcoming us into her troubled racial history. We arrived dockside at Jetty #2 in the Victoria & Albert Waterfront and it felt like Pier 39 in San Francisco. Full of shops, restaurants and companies advertising various outings such as helicopter rides, 1-day safari tours, champagne cruises and shark-cage diving, the Waterfront was beautiful and colorful. It felt very safe and very Western. Complete with food from around the world, the only thing missing (thankfully) was a Starbucks.
Behind the Waterfront sat the skyscrapers of the City Centre/Bo-Kaap supported by the dramatic backdrop of Table Mountain, flanked on the left by Devil’s Peak and on the right by Lion’s Head and Signal Hill. The latter is only 1000 feet high and was used by the early Dutch settlers – as a new ship would approach the Cape, a flag would be raised to alert the shopkeepers to ready their goods for sale. On the second day of our stay, Bill and I walked to the top of Signal Hill with our friends, Ed & Barbara Sobey. As we approached the saddle between Signal Hill and Lion’s Head from the west (ocean side), we kept our ears open for the guttural sounds of baboons (just in case) and we were pleasantly surprised by the totally unexpected sound of prayers being sung. As we drew nearer to the top of Signal Hill we passed an old mosque and a few marked graves. There were two men in different spots singing songs of mourning.
After leaving the Sobeys to pick their way back down the hill to our ship, Bill and I turned around and walked back past the mosque and up the path toward Lion’s Head. *If you look at www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com you can find this peak – it’s very pointed on the top. Signal Hill is affectionately called the Lion’s Rump* It took us just over an hour until we sat atop, munching on our PB&J sandwiches and chocolate cookies. The last 30 minutes we scrambled up ladders and chain-supported sections with hand-holds pounded into the rock. It was a steep, steep and exposed top. Felt a bit like climbing Mt. Katahdin in central Maine.
When we were well-rested, we set off down Lion’s Head only this time we wanted to head southeast toward the main approach to Table Mountain. We skirted the large, massive mountain on its west side as we walked the Pipe Track under the Twelve Apostles (a series of peaks that stretch down toward the tip of the Cape Peninsula). We found our route up, called The Diagonal. Turns out that the trail builders in South Africa like to go straight up, with little to no switchbacks. We started literally climbing rock stairs up into a drainage we were to follow south around multiple buttresses. At one point, the trail directed us at a good 60 degree angle up Porcupine Ravine. We picked our way along the rocks, hoping to not surprise a Cape Cobra or Berg Adder sunning itself on a rock. Very long walk later, we made our way into the Valley of the Red Gods and then, finally, north again toward Echo Valley and the summit of Table Mountain.
Eight hours since leaving our ship, we sat upon the Western Table drenched and wet amidst the cool breeze and dropping temperatures. It was one of those awkward moments when you’ve drug yourself up a physically challenging route with no one around to suddenly find yourself surrounded by many people looking freshly showered and smelling clean, eating hamburgers and sipping cool drinks and shopping in the gift shop (they presumably rode the cable car). We bought two Cokes and ate our remaining sandwiches and fruit. We also rode the cable car down the hill – it was a sweet splurge.
Other moments of note from our time in Cape Town included a day spent riding the commuter train and a day spent in Stellenbosch.
Commuter Train:
We spent one day with our friend, Molly Sorice (the assistant librarian). We picked up the train from City Centre and our first stop was Muizenberg for surf. Bill ended up being the only one brave enough to face the cold water. Molly and I sat in a café and chatted while munching on some very good scones with jam and fresh cream. Bill had a 2-hour session and scratched his surfing itch. The waves were frequent and thigh-to-waist high. The crowds were very thin and he caught many waves.
We all hopped back onto the Red Line. From Muizenberg the train line follows the coast, sometimes sitting only a few feet from the water. We stopped in Kalk Bay, just 2 more stops down the track. We quickly found the original Cape to Cuba restaurant tucked against the train tracks in this quaint town. It reminded me of Ciao Bella with all the eclectic furniture and artwork. Everything in the restaurant has been imported from Cuba, Russia and another place I cannot recall. The food was soooo good. Spicy and warm, washed down with beer from Havana.
From there, we trained it to Simon’s Town. Along this last 20 minutes, we spotted five or six Right Whales as they rolled along the coastline only 30 feet from shore. We also spotted two shark fins cruising past! In Simon’s Town we walked 3km to a wonderful treat, The Tibetan Teahouse, where we sat on a balcony overlooking the water and drank pots of chai and coffee with warm milk. Next we set off for Boulders Beach to see the colony of Jackass Penguins – so freakin’ cute.
Stellenbosch:
This was one of our few SAS trips – we went first to Stellenbosch University and were led around campus by a student, Lieb, for a tour. We were then treated to a very interesting lecture about the university system in SA, particularly post-Apartheid. Following this, we were driven out to Denheim Vineyards for a wine cellar tour and tasting with lunch. So lovely and beautiful, despite the rainy day. A day well-spent though difficult to swallow – on the way to Stellenbosch (about 30 minutes drive, in the winelands that are nestled just outside of Cape Town proper), I had my first glimpse of the townships. We drove, in our luxury tour buses, along a normal-looking highway – 2 lanes on either side and similar to our larger roads in the US. I had seen pictures and movies about South Africa’s townships but I was still under-prepared emotionally for the reality of the lack of housing resources that these communities have been historically given. Bill and I both made a conscious choice to not participate in any Township Tours, either with SAS or with local companies. It felt like taking a tour of historically poor neighborhoods in the States – very contrived. However, I felt torn by a responsibility to see these living, breathing spaces. For that I am grateful for a small glimpse from the bus. I am still processing and considering the economic apartheid that still exists in South Africa.
Similarly, during our numerous outings I was often reminded that just 14 years ago most of Cape Town's citizens were unable to visit the same places I was seeing. Table Mountain and the beaches, for example, were white-only during Apartheid. And the commuter train we took to Simon's Town was histocially a "black" train as it was mostly used by domestic-working women as they travelled between their homes in Cape Flats (the townships) and the white neighborhoods on the Cape Penisula. Most of these women actually lived in small rooms behind the employer's house and were only able to travel home to see their own children and families on Sundays.
Other interesting things from the last few days:
*Playing frogger as we attempted to cross the busy roads near the Waterfront - reading the traffic on the left side of the road got easier as time passed but some of the streets are really large and not pedestrian-friendly. We actually had one guy selling newspapers give us an escort across at one point - he was very sweet.
*The quaint, little French cafe that we found in the Waterkant neighborhood. We were in search of a bicycle shop/cafe that had apparently moved since our guide book was published. Le Petite Tarte was just around the corner and was a much better find, in our minds. We went back a second day for another lovely coffee and chocolate croissant. Heavenly.
*Whales, whales, whales! We've been seeing pods of Humpback whales from the ship for two days. They consist of 2-3 members and have been as close as 100 feet. I watched multiple adults breaching from the front deck of our ship a few days ago. Another spiritual experience for me. As my friend, Ed Sobey, commented, "If you are not moved by watching a whale swim through the ocean, you might not have a soul."
I am, in fact, still processing much of my visit to South Africa. It was a vibrant and full seven days. As a shipboard community, many of us are still sorting through the experience as we start to look east toward India. I’m finding there is not enough time for reflection nor the proper tools in place for the work that could be done for all members of this community. There is so much to process.
In general, the African continent treated me very well and I was very sad two nights ago to pull away from the dock in Cape Town. The south/southeast coast of South Africa has been visible from our ship for two days now. It is with a heavy heart that I wave good-bye to a place that feels like a long-lost friend. I hope and pray that I will return to some piece of this great, large, complex continent very soon.
Thanks, again, Woody for another letter. Loved your ideas for Cape Town - we didn't actually get your letter until the last day but luckily we had done most of what you suggested. But the copies of your scrapbook have given me great ideas!
We received the Falkiners card and Elyse's class letters - thank you all!!! Our cabin wall is starting to really fill up with these cards and letters and makes it feel a bit more like home.
Sarah Hoffman - Bill mentioned that you sent something to Namibia. I'm very sad that we did not receive it. Thank you for thinking of us.
We're still wondering if any of our postcards from Brasil made it to the States. We sent about 15 of them and are sad they didn't reach their intended homes.
Hope opening went well for the UCSC folks!!
Joy & Joe - Mandy (Mag) is with us now. He is so great! And he said hello to you both with smile.
Sarah - I heard that two of our dining hall crew were on the Scholarship - I'm still trying to hunt them down. We had 35 crew leave us in Cape Town and, obviously, 35 more embark so I'm still getting to know the new faces.
I'm sure there is something else I wanted to write but I will sign off for now. Much love to everyone!!
heather ;)
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Happy Birthday Mom!!! 10/4/08
First and Foremost, Let me (and Heather) take this special day to wish my mom, Viv, a very happy 29th birthday!!!! October 4th is always a happy day because it’s a time to celebrate mom (and to know that as a student affairs guy, most of the hardest work has just been done), either way, Mom, I hope yours is a truly happy birthday!
We’re sailing north and east now, two days out of Capetown and we can still see the coastline as we move past pods of southern Bottlenose dolphins, southern Right whales and even some Humpback whales.
The southern Right whales are in the coastal areas of Capetown and the whole S. African Coast. They are named such because in their overhunting, whalers noticed that these whales yielded lots of blubber to be processed and, conveniently, didn't sink when they were harpooned...unlucky for them. Speaking of raw fish, Heather and I had a great sushi dinner at a swanky joint, more reminiscent of Manhattan than Africa, called Beluga. A nice host named Lawerence took a liking to me and found us a table despite our lack of reservation (or booking). The sushi made me think of the west coast of our own continent and all the good fish we enjoy. Then I got to missing friends and family everywhere and really not looking forward to the 11 day passage to Chennai.
But I have the fond memories of this trip to the continent of Africa. These countries (Namibia and South Africa) have much in common and really give me pause when I think of the disparities present in the walking life of the city. I should say that in the 4 years since my last visit to Capetown, I have noticed on this trip a much more visible African middle class of workers and professionals. The billboard advertising is reflecting that as well with more upscale products marketed directly to African individuals. There is still plenty of visible racism, but many of the institutions are working hard to make their places of work and employment inclusive in number and culture.
Heather and I had a great hike up Table mountain (1084 m), Lion's Head peak (780 m) and Signal Hill (304 m) all on Saturday last week. These three peaks form a ridge line from the coast up to the top of Table mountain and really make for a dramatic view from the ocean or the summit. We cheated our way down on the gondola/cable car, complete with a rotating floor for 360 degree views on the 4 minute ride down to the base.
Today on the water, I noticed the color had changed from a gray/green of the Atlantic to a deep midnight blue of the Indian Ocean. Our first night out of Capetown had us literally bouncing around as we crossed the line (on the map) where the two oceans actually come together. I'm not sure if there is a giant mythical whirlpool there, but if there was, our ship's Captain managed to avoid it and the Siren's song of Antarctica to the very far south.
Sunday and Monday last week found Heather and I dodging raindrops and making our way into the Waterkant neighborhood for a fantastic coffee, served with hot milk (which, when you add sugar and hot milk slowly, the coffee turns from slightly bitter to quite sweet and stays hot the whole time...mmm). We also found our way into some delicious chocolate filled crossiants at the same french style cafe, Le Petit Tart.
A trip on the train south from Capetown took us and our friend, Molly the Librarian, on a fun excursion to the beach town of Muizenberg for a few hours of (sharky?) wave surfing on a rented board in a red and yellow clown suit, er, wetsuit. We saw our first Right whales on the train south further down to Kalk Bay for lunch at the Che Guevara inspired "Cape to Cuba." We also saw two sharks poke their dorsal fins out of the water. I'm glad I didn't see them while surfing. Our stop in the town of Simonstown had us walking to a Tibetean Tea house for the healthiest rice-krispy treat ever and then to Boulders beach for a view of the jackass penguins and their afternoon beach landing. They float in flocks toward the beach then speed up like miniature flying dolphins until they find shallow water enough that they can run up the rocks with their kneeless legs for a chance to shake off the water and puff their feathers for the night. Such a sight.
There was walking all over the city, and a trip to a winery and a university in Stellenbosch.
Now, we're watching the debates between McCain and Obama and tomorrow the debates between Biden and Palin. For all we see usually see on TV, I think we should take a play out of Canada's electoral book. Stephen Harper, the current prime minister of Canada is up for reelection in 9 days! The Canadians heard about this only yesterday! So, this means that the Canadians will have campaigned and elected a new leader in less than 2 weeks while United States campaigns drag on for literally two years at a time...ugh. OH CANADA:) good for you. I'm still coming happily back to the US, Uncle Charlie, but I could do without all the analysis of the election.:)
Finally, I have to say that I'm looking forward to Chennai, India. I think we'll buy a phrase book. The characters are way out of my league.
Enjoy this month of bonfires, warm days, soft sunsets and good surf where ever you find yourself.
Much Love,
Bill
We’re sailing north and east now, two days out of Capetown and we can still see the coastline as we move past pods of southern Bottlenose dolphins, southern Right whales and even some Humpback whales.
The southern Right whales are in the coastal areas of Capetown and the whole S. African Coast. They are named such because in their overhunting, whalers noticed that these whales yielded lots of blubber to be processed and, conveniently, didn't sink when they were harpooned...unlucky for them. Speaking of raw fish, Heather and I had a great sushi dinner at a swanky joint, more reminiscent of Manhattan than Africa, called Beluga. A nice host named Lawerence took a liking to me and found us a table despite our lack of reservation (or booking). The sushi made me think of the west coast of our own continent and all the good fish we enjoy. Then I got to missing friends and family everywhere and really not looking forward to the 11 day passage to Chennai.
But I have the fond memories of this trip to the continent of Africa. These countries (Namibia and South Africa) have much in common and really give me pause when I think of the disparities present in the walking life of the city. I should say that in the 4 years since my last visit to Capetown, I have noticed on this trip a much more visible African middle class of workers and professionals. The billboard advertising is reflecting that as well with more upscale products marketed directly to African individuals. There is still plenty of visible racism, but many of the institutions are working hard to make their places of work and employment inclusive in number and culture.
Heather and I had a great hike up Table mountain (1084 m), Lion's Head peak (780 m) and Signal Hill (304 m) all on Saturday last week. These three peaks form a ridge line from the coast up to the top of Table mountain and really make for a dramatic view from the ocean or the summit. We cheated our way down on the gondola/cable car, complete with a rotating floor for 360 degree views on the 4 minute ride down to the base.
Today on the water, I noticed the color had changed from a gray/green of the Atlantic to a deep midnight blue of the Indian Ocean. Our first night out of Capetown had us literally bouncing around as we crossed the line (on the map) where the two oceans actually come together. I'm not sure if there is a giant mythical whirlpool there, but if there was, our ship's Captain managed to avoid it and the Siren's song of Antarctica to the very far south.
Sunday and Monday last week found Heather and I dodging raindrops and making our way into the Waterkant neighborhood for a fantastic coffee, served with hot milk (which, when you add sugar and hot milk slowly, the coffee turns from slightly bitter to quite sweet and stays hot the whole time...mmm). We also found our way into some delicious chocolate filled crossiants at the same french style cafe, Le Petit Tart.
A trip on the train south from Capetown took us and our friend, Molly the Librarian, on a fun excursion to the beach town of Muizenberg for a few hours of (sharky?) wave surfing on a rented board in a red and yellow clown suit, er, wetsuit. We saw our first Right whales on the train south further down to Kalk Bay for lunch at the Che Guevara inspired "Cape to Cuba." We also saw two sharks poke their dorsal fins out of the water. I'm glad I didn't see them while surfing. Our stop in the town of Simonstown had us walking to a Tibetean Tea house for the healthiest rice-krispy treat ever and then to Boulders beach for a view of the jackass penguins and their afternoon beach landing. They float in flocks toward the beach then speed up like miniature flying dolphins until they find shallow water enough that they can run up the rocks with their kneeless legs for a chance to shake off the water and puff their feathers for the night. Such a sight.
There was walking all over the city, and a trip to a winery and a university in Stellenbosch.
Now, we're watching the debates between McCain and Obama and tomorrow the debates between Biden and Palin. For all we see usually see on TV, I think we should take a play out of Canada's electoral book. Stephen Harper, the current prime minister of Canada is up for reelection in 9 days! The Canadians heard about this only yesterday! So, this means that the Canadians will have campaigned and elected a new leader in less than 2 weeks while United States campaigns drag on for literally two years at a time...ugh. OH CANADA:) good for you. I'm still coming happily back to the US, Uncle Charlie, but I could do without all the analysis of the election.:)
Finally, I have to say that I'm looking forward to Chennai, India. I think we'll buy a phrase book. The characters are way out of my league.
Enjoy this month of bonfires, warm days, soft sunsets and good surf where ever you find yourself.
Much Love,
Bill
Friday, October 3, 2008
I love you, Desmond Tutu!
On Wednesday evening, our shipboard community had the honor of welcoming Archbishop Desmond Tutu for a short, last-minute visit to the MV Explorer. Upon our return on Tuesday from a day of riding the train and sightseeing, we were overjoyed to find a handwritten note pinned to the communication board in Tymitz Square (on Deck 5, this is a centralized area of the ship...like a open foyer). It read that Archbishop Tutu would be making a special guest appearance and talk at 1700 hours on October 1st. Rumor has it that he was notified that this might be SAS’s last visit to South Africa for an unknown period due to the rising coat of fuel (it seems that SAS will be more likely to travel through the Suez Canal in the next few years). Anyway, Archbishop Tutu has actually sailed twice with SAS and often made a visit when the ship was in port. I have been crossing my fingers since we left Norfolk that we would have some special, surprise opportunity like this one. It has been a few voyages since someone like Tutu or Castro had made an appearance on one of the larger voyages.
The Archbishop arrived and, I’ve been told, first posed for a photograph with our Captain (at the Captain’s special request) and then proceeded to go immediately to say hello to some of his friends at the Purser’s Desk (this is our Crew’s desk in Tymitz Square). He then turned to our Executive Dean, Jack van der Water, and said “What’s next?” with a smile. He was escorted to the Union, where many of us had been waiting for nearly 2 hours. He was welcomed with a standing ovation by the audience and proceeded down one aisle where he was seated in the chair directly in front of me! He was just inches away during the time he was introduced by our Academic Dean, Len Schoppa. Wow!! See our photo site (www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com for the photos that Bill took).
There are a few individuals in this world that I find truly larger-than-life and Archbishop Tutu is certainly one of them. These are also folks that I never expect to meet in my lifetime - what an honor and dream to actually see Desmond Tutu in person. He glowed with compassion and warmth and I felt I was truly in the presence of great kindness and strength.
The Archbishop rose after being introduced and spoke to us for about 45 minutes – he was full of compassionate advice and spirited appreciation of his fellow human beings. I was struck on numerous occasions by his willingness and intent to focus on the positive nature of people. Here is a man who suffered atrocious indignities in his homeland for decades, who has witnessed and sorted through these crimes of humanity with great detail and thoughtfulness and care and yet he began his speech to our room full of privileged Americans by reminding us how special we are to one another and the world community.
If I could explain to you how I am inspired to witness God, it is through people like Desmond Tutu. He cajoled us to consider how special we are as human beings, insisting that we think of one another as manifestations of God. He said “were we able to see one another with the right kind of eyes, we would be dazzled.” He spoke to us from his heart and his message was directed to each of our hearts. When asked, he stated that our country could do better to drop bread not bombs and to consider signing important things like the Kyoto Protocol. He also mentioned, when asked, that his greatest accomplishments were having a child and being part of the anti-Apartheid movement. Yet, in all of his commentary about the world, the US, and his own country he never boasted or laid blame. He gave credit where credit was due and softly asked us to consider other parts of the world when making decisions about our own life and families.
I’m telling you, I found this man as humble and compassionate as I imagine his Nobel Peace Prize colleagues and other spiritual leaders to be. Truly amazing. As many of you can already guess, I was moved to tears. In fact, at one point I wasn’t sure I was going to make it through the visit without having to excuse myself. As he walked past me and left the room, I was able to touch his shoulder and say thanks. The hour felt like seconds and I’m convinced time actually stood still. I was absolutely dazzled.
The Archbishop arrived and, I’ve been told, first posed for a photograph with our Captain (at the Captain’s special request) and then proceeded to go immediately to say hello to some of his friends at the Purser’s Desk (this is our Crew’s desk in Tymitz Square). He then turned to our Executive Dean, Jack van der Water, and said “What’s next?” with a smile. He was escorted to the Union, where many of us had been waiting for nearly 2 hours. He was welcomed with a standing ovation by the audience and proceeded down one aisle where he was seated in the chair directly in front of me! He was just inches away during the time he was introduced by our Academic Dean, Len Schoppa. Wow!! See our photo site (www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com for the photos that Bill took).
There are a few individuals in this world that I find truly larger-than-life and Archbishop Tutu is certainly one of them. These are also folks that I never expect to meet in my lifetime - what an honor and dream to actually see Desmond Tutu in person. He glowed with compassion and warmth and I felt I was truly in the presence of great kindness and strength.
The Archbishop rose after being introduced and spoke to us for about 45 minutes – he was full of compassionate advice and spirited appreciation of his fellow human beings. I was struck on numerous occasions by his willingness and intent to focus on the positive nature of people. Here is a man who suffered atrocious indignities in his homeland for decades, who has witnessed and sorted through these crimes of humanity with great detail and thoughtfulness and care and yet he began his speech to our room full of privileged Americans by reminding us how special we are to one another and the world community.
If I could explain to you how I am inspired to witness God, it is through people like Desmond Tutu. He cajoled us to consider how special we are as human beings, insisting that we think of one another as manifestations of God. He said “were we able to see one another with the right kind of eyes, we would be dazzled.” He spoke to us from his heart and his message was directed to each of our hearts. When asked, he stated that our country could do better to drop bread not bombs and to consider signing important things like the Kyoto Protocol. He also mentioned, when asked, that his greatest accomplishments were having a child and being part of the anti-Apartheid movement. Yet, in all of his commentary about the world, the US, and his own country he never boasted or laid blame. He gave credit where credit was due and softly asked us to consider other parts of the world when making decisions about our own life and families.
I’m telling you, I found this man as humble and compassionate as I imagine his Nobel Peace Prize colleagues and other spiritual leaders to be. Truly amazing. As many of you can already guess, I was moved to tears. In fact, at one point I wasn’t sure I was going to make it through the visit without having to excuse myself. As he walked past me and left the room, I was able to touch his shoulder and say thanks. The hour felt like seconds and I’m convinced time actually stood still. I was absolutely dazzled.
Thursday, September 25, 2008
This Just In: Namibian Winds Blow Sand into my Ear Canal
Yes, folks, Namibia is a place of desert and winds. Lots of sand moved around to form huge dunes and to create harsh environments for plants like the unique Welwitschia Plant (a giant, strap-like sprawl). The Hererro people (and numerous other ethnic groups) managed to use the land for centuries as cattle herders before the area of present-day Namibia was coloniz(s)ed by Dutch, British, German and finally South African governments. Visitors can see influence of the German occupation (1885-1915) in the town of Swakopmund, north of Walvis Bay, in both the architecture and the graveyards. Contrasts become thematic in my travels around the areas of Coastal Namibia. I didn’t make it into the capital, Windhoek, but I’m sure it is much different than the coastal environments.
Heather and I arrived and woke up early to watch as our ship approached its landing in Walvis Bay last Friday. We didn’t get to see much as the fog was thick, one of the reasons for its nick name, the “Skeleton Coast.” And for good reason, it only took a short taxi ride to see an actual, fairly recent shipwreck. I read a local newspaper and saw a report of one ship sinking while an attempt was being made to raise another shipwreck from the depths. Regardless, there wasn’t much to see on the way into port and thankfully, our Captain isn’t color blind because the red and green buoys were already obscured by the fog.
The local dock workers were cheering for us upon arrival, but they might have been laughing too. What they knew (and we soon found out) was that the town center was about a mile away through the Port Authority Checkpoint, a gated and fairly secure entry way. Only taxi’s with certain licenses could enter the port gate, about ¾ of a mile away from the ship. Being on a limited budget, Heather and I walked that distance most of the time. In the process, we got to see up close the workings of the Trans Namib Railway.
The weather was comfortable, much like Santa Cruz in the late spring. It was windy and a bit cool, overcast in the morning followed by sun in the afternoon on most days in port. Walvis Bay itself has a legacy of apartheid government in Namibia until 1990, when the country gained it’s independence from South Africa. The valuable deep-sea port at Walvis Bay (the only one between South Africa and Angola), was actually the reason that South Africa did not relinquish Walvis Bay back to Namibia until 1994. The city is laid out a bit sparsely, with concrete and stucco homes and buildings, no more than 2-3 stories high. The highest point in town is the Catholic Church steeple (Mass was celebrated in English and Portuguese). The highest point around the entire area is the huge oil rig at the port.
There was lots of really good food there too…in fact, Crazy Mama’s is a quaint little joint that had some of the best pizza in Namibia, according to our guidebook. I can confirm that the pizza was, in fact, quite good
One other very interesting part of my trip was a visit to a cemetery in the town of Swakopmund, about 20km north of Walvis Bay. I went with the historian and inter-port lecturer, Mohammed Adhikari, from the University of Cape Town, to visit the Hererro graves from a 1906 genocide by the German Army. The German General at the time was quite proud of this deed, according to what little has been written. What is easy to see are about 3000+ unmarked graves of the Hererro people interned and then murdered at the site. I was moved to tears at this place. The Hererro people were subject to the vacillating weather of the coast, malnutrition and violence from 1904-1906 and harassment from the German government before and after.
The graves are in the property of the current cemetery, which looks much like other modern cemeteries (including some Heinrich families). The site is now being marked, not individually, but in some significant ways. The current German government has apologized for the atrocities and is in the process of funding and building five memorial markers designed by Namibians to remember the area for future generations. The first marker has been installed. It’s a large stone with unfinished edges and a finished surface with text, about eight feet tall, A 9 foot cinderblock wall has been built to surround the whole site and keep out the many ATV drivers who frequent the desert to the south. Private homes have been built literally up to the wall on the north side and between the sounds of new construction near the east side, I could hear school children playing at recess. The community is literally surrounding this site and perhaps the place will look different in a few more years. Right now, the unmarked graves are easy to identify mounds in the sand. As many historians are uncovering smaller scale genocides, sociologists and anthropologists are coming up with explanations for them. These acts aren’t confined to small, colonial governments, but are more wide spread than we’d like to admit (think native Americans circa 1815 and the doctrine of Manifest Destiny).
My trip ended with a really boring tour of the Namibian Police station in Walvis Bay, but that’s another story for another time
Keep well and thanks for your letters and emails. Its’ great to hear from you all!!!
Bill
From Heather:
Bill summed up a great deal of our 5 days in Namibia. It's so extremely difficult to capture the feel of an entire country as large as Namibia - it's roughly twice the size of California. The people we met of all backgrounds were extremely kind and helpful, minus a few swindling taxi drivers. The men in the markets, selling their wares, were fun to talk with - I met many folks who asked about our presidential election, always wondering what I think of Obama. They always wanted to know where I came from and facts about my family. The game of haggling for prices got easier as I gained more practice. I have a set of ornaments for our holiday tree made from a local nut and carved with our names that will always make us smile as we recall the story of buying them on the street.
I wish we had been able to get into the dessert - those that went said they really enjoyed the sunsets. Our time was quiet and reflective in many ways. I was very sad to pull away from the port two nights ago....a feeling of loss that I can't yet explain. I'm very happy that my feet will again touch African soil tomorrow. Our time was too short for such a big continent. I look forward to more eye-opening sites and sounds. As many of you know, I am a slow-processor so I can already tell that this trip, in general, will speak to me in various ways for days to come. For now, I will download some photos.
Thank you Woody, Joy & Mary Hackman for the notes and letters!!! So great to hear from you. I hope Taye is enjoying his postcards, Mare.
Much love,
heather ;)
Heather and I arrived and woke up early to watch as our ship approached its landing in Walvis Bay last Friday. We didn’t get to see much as the fog was thick, one of the reasons for its nick name, the “Skeleton Coast.” And for good reason, it only took a short taxi ride to see an actual, fairly recent shipwreck. I read a local newspaper and saw a report of one ship sinking while an attempt was being made to raise another shipwreck from the depths. Regardless, there wasn’t much to see on the way into port and thankfully, our Captain isn’t color blind because the red and green buoys were already obscured by the fog.
The local dock workers were cheering for us upon arrival, but they might have been laughing too. What they knew (and we soon found out) was that the town center was about a mile away through the Port Authority Checkpoint, a gated and fairly secure entry way. Only taxi’s with certain licenses could enter the port gate, about ¾ of a mile away from the ship. Being on a limited budget, Heather and I walked that distance most of the time. In the process, we got to see up close the workings of the Trans Namib Railway.
The weather was comfortable, much like Santa Cruz in the late spring. It was windy and a bit cool, overcast in the morning followed by sun in the afternoon on most days in port. Walvis Bay itself has a legacy of apartheid government in Namibia until 1990, when the country gained it’s independence from South Africa. The valuable deep-sea port at Walvis Bay (the only one between South Africa and Angola), was actually the reason that South Africa did not relinquish Walvis Bay back to Namibia until 1994. The city is laid out a bit sparsely, with concrete and stucco homes and buildings, no more than 2-3 stories high. The highest point in town is the Catholic Church steeple (Mass was celebrated in English and Portuguese). The highest point around the entire area is the huge oil rig at the port.
There was lots of really good food there too…in fact, Crazy Mama’s is a quaint little joint that had some of the best pizza in Namibia, according to our guidebook. I can confirm that the pizza was, in fact, quite good
One other very interesting part of my trip was a visit to a cemetery in the town of Swakopmund, about 20km north of Walvis Bay. I went with the historian and inter-port lecturer, Mohammed Adhikari, from the University of Cape Town, to visit the Hererro graves from a 1906 genocide by the German Army. The German General at the time was quite proud of this deed, according to what little has been written. What is easy to see are about 3000+ unmarked graves of the Hererro people interned and then murdered at the site. I was moved to tears at this place. The Hererro people were subject to the vacillating weather of the coast, malnutrition and violence from 1904-1906 and harassment from the German government before and after.
The graves are in the property of the current cemetery, which looks much like other modern cemeteries (including some Heinrich families). The site is now being marked, not individually, but in some significant ways. The current German government has apologized for the atrocities and is in the process of funding and building five memorial markers designed by Namibians to remember the area for future generations. The first marker has been installed. It’s a large stone with unfinished edges and a finished surface with text, about eight feet tall, A 9 foot cinderblock wall has been built to surround the whole site and keep out the many ATV drivers who frequent the desert to the south. Private homes have been built literally up to the wall on the north side and between the sounds of new construction near the east side, I could hear school children playing at recess. The community is literally surrounding this site and perhaps the place will look different in a few more years. Right now, the unmarked graves are easy to identify mounds in the sand. As many historians are uncovering smaller scale genocides, sociologists and anthropologists are coming up with explanations for them. These acts aren’t confined to small, colonial governments, but are more wide spread than we’d like to admit (think native Americans circa 1815 and the doctrine of Manifest Destiny).
My trip ended with a really boring tour of the Namibian Police station in Walvis Bay, but that’s another story for another time
Keep well and thanks for your letters and emails. Its’ great to hear from you all!!!
Bill
From Heather:
Bill summed up a great deal of our 5 days in Namibia. It's so extremely difficult to capture the feel of an entire country as large as Namibia - it's roughly twice the size of California. The people we met of all backgrounds were extremely kind and helpful, minus a few swindling taxi drivers. The men in the markets, selling their wares, were fun to talk with - I met many folks who asked about our presidential election, always wondering what I think of Obama. They always wanted to know where I came from and facts about my family. The game of haggling for prices got easier as I gained more practice. I have a set of ornaments for our holiday tree made from a local nut and carved with our names that will always make us smile as we recall the story of buying them on the street.
I wish we had been able to get into the dessert - those that went said they really enjoyed the sunsets. Our time was quiet and reflective in many ways. I was very sad to pull away from the port two nights ago....a feeling of loss that I can't yet explain. I'm very happy that my feet will again touch African soil tomorrow. Our time was too short for such a big continent. I look forward to more eye-opening sites and sounds. As many of you know, I am a slow-processor so I can already tell that this trip, in general, will speak to me in various ways for days to come. For now, I will download some photos.
Thank you Woody, Joy & Mary Hackman for the notes and letters!!! So great to hear from you. I hope Taye is enjoying his postcards, Mare.
Much love,
heather ;)
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Atlantic Reflections
We're 25 days into this endeavor! It feels more like 6 months, but the daily ship life is mellowing out, so I'm finding time to do more emails. The daily schedule is divided up into "A" and "B" days. The schedules are different, but all take place regardless of the day or date of the week. So we have certain things to do on A days and other certain things on B days. As student issues tend to be a bit scattered, we have meetings EVERYday that we're at sea. They tend to run a bit long.
I'm in charge of Sea Olympics (like Block Party), which is on October 9th. We're already announcing the events tonight because we have two ports to visit between now and then. In port, the whole of ship-life changes and then stalls out while everyone goes on a bit of a traveling vacation...more ambiguity, more new things, more unknowns about how and when and where and trying to negotiate simple tasks like finding the bathroom and getting into a taxi and not getting ripped off because I don't understand how to say 'twenty' or 'thirty' or whatever number in Portuguese or Zulu or Bantu.
On the ship we have to highly regulate the amount and nature of alcohol use on the ship for the students. It's really punitive, but from a health and safety standpoint, we really don't have the medical support on ship to keep the drunks from hurting themselves or others. As it is, students are allowed to purchase up to 6 drinks per night. They understand the concepts, and most individuals tell us they wouldn't over drink, but still, there is a low level of trust for a mostly U.S. population of college students. We found some students still sneaked on bottles of booze and come to dinner drunk or come to an evening event drunk. There are lots of ways to ‘escape’ and most students don't even bother with the alcohol, but all in all, it's a pain in my ass because I have to baby-sit the nights when we do serve alcohol. A small price to pay, I suppose.
I’ve heard and noticed too, a very distinct perception of class differences. Many students, especially students of color, have worked hard to obtain this sea-going opportunity and find it especially draining when other students take the same opportunity for granted. This is especially apparent when complaints about the food in the dining room or the frequency of laundry or the “lack” of alcohol are made by students with more means. I see the tensions building when this classism is expressed as racism and rightly interpreted as such. I have individual conversations about this all the time and I hope it’s making some of the whiter and more privileged folks aware of how their language and actions impact others on the ship.
The Middle Passage is being remembered today and reflected upon by the conscious shipboard community. We remember the forced passage across the Atlantic Ocean of many ancestors of our families.
Lately students have complained about the searches of their person, rooms and urine for illegal substances. All participants, myself included, signed an agreement to consent to such searches, so now students are complaining because they don't like the rules. As a result, I'm learning what the cliché means "to run a tight ship." Our captain is a great guy, very nice, but he doesn't F.around. There is no room for dissent when he makes a decision. And his decisions are fair and consistent with stated rules and practice.
On the less crabby side, Heather and I are taking a class together about the religious practices, traditions and cultures of all the places we're visiting. It's really fascinating! We learned about the afro-Brazilian tradition of Candomble (related to VouDun, not to be confused with Haitian Voodoo), where one of 23 spirits inhabit the body of an initiated member. We're learning now about the religious justification and religious resistance to the policy of Apartheid ("Purity") that was the tradition and then rule of law in South Africa from 1910-1994. I'm excited about India and what we'll learn going there!
There is a research scientist from NOAA on board and he is enlisting help in dropping weather and wave buoys off the back of the boat as we cross the Atlantic! It's a really fun process to learn about. These specific buoys are self regulating and submerge to 1500 meters of depth for 9 days at a time, take measurements, drift on the deep currents and record temperature, pressure, etc. They then re-inflate and rise up to the surface to send measurements and movement information to satellites, back to land. This happens for about 6 years of battery life until the thing eventually sinks to the bottom and disintegrates under the pressure. There are about 3500 of these buoys in the oceans currently.
Last night, we crossed the Prime Meridian, at Latitude 21degrees south of the equator, headed east to Namibia! As we get further east, we lose about an hour a day. We've had about six 23hr. days this week. The ship runs on a 24 hr schedule, so sleep seems to suffer for the community...ugh. The ship is a bit rocky lately too. To explain why, I've included a quote from an Oceanography professor on the ship:
"As we approach the coast of Africa, the ship will enter the Benguela current. This current carries cold water to the north. The current is associated with coastal upwelling that brings nutrients to the surface and supports high biological productivity. The waters once supported a rich fishery but over-fishing has greatly reduced catches. The cold water also causes coastal fogs that have contributed to shipwrecks along this "Skeleton Coast" of Namibia."
I hope we fare better:)
Much love and I miss you all,
Bill
I'm in charge of Sea Olympics (like Block Party), which is on October 9th. We're already announcing the events tonight because we have two ports to visit between now and then. In port, the whole of ship-life changes and then stalls out while everyone goes on a bit of a traveling vacation...more ambiguity, more new things, more unknowns about how and when and where and trying to negotiate simple tasks like finding the bathroom and getting into a taxi and not getting ripped off because I don't understand how to say 'twenty' or 'thirty' or whatever number in Portuguese or Zulu or Bantu.
On the ship we have to highly regulate the amount and nature of alcohol use on the ship for the students. It's really punitive, but from a health and safety standpoint, we really don't have the medical support on ship to keep the drunks from hurting themselves or others. As it is, students are allowed to purchase up to 6 drinks per night. They understand the concepts, and most individuals tell us they wouldn't over drink, but still, there is a low level of trust for a mostly U.S. population of college students. We found some students still sneaked on bottles of booze and come to dinner drunk or come to an evening event drunk. There are lots of ways to ‘escape’ and most students don't even bother with the alcohol, but all in all, it's a pain in my ass because I have to baby-sit the nights when we do serve alcohol. A small price to pay, I suppose.
I’ve heard and noticed too, a very distinct perception of class differences. Many students, especially students of color, have worked hard to obtain this sea-going opportunity and find it especially draining when other students take the same opportunity for granted. This is especially apparent when complaints about the food in the dining room or the frequency of laundry or the “lack” of alcohol are made by students with more means. I see the tensions building when this classism is expressed as racism and rightly interpreted as such. I have individual conversations about this all the time and I hope it’s making some of the whiter and more privileged folks aware of how their language and actions impact others on the ship.
The Middle Passage is being remembered today and reflected upon by the conscious shipboard community. We remember the forced passage across the Atlantic Ocean of many ancestors of our families.
Lately students have complained about the searches of their person, rooms and urine for illegal substances. All participants, myself included, signed an agreement to consent to such searches, so now students are complaining because they don't like the rules. As a result, I'm learning what the cliché means "to run a tight ship." Our captain is a great guy, very nice, but he doesn't F.around. There is no room for dissent when he makes a decision. And his decisions are fair and consistent with stated rules and practice.
On the less crabby side, Heather and I are taking a class together about the religious practices, traditions and cultures of all the places we're visiting. It's really fascinating! We learned about the afro-Brazilian tradition of Candomble (related to VouDun, not to be confused with Haitian Voodoo), where one of 23 spirits inhabit the body of an initiated member. We're learning now about the religious justification and religious resistance to the policy of Apartheid ("Purity") that was the tradition and then rule of law in South Africa from 1910-1994. I'm excited about India and what we'll learn going there!
There is a research scientist from NOAA on board and he is enlisting help in dropping weather and wave buoys off the back of the boat as we cross the Atlantic! It's a really fun process to learn about. These specific buoys are self regulating and submerge to 1500 meters of depth for 9 days at a time, take measurements, drift on the deep currents and record temperature, pressure, etc. They then re-inflate and rise up to the surface to send measurements and movement information to satellites, back to land. This happens for about 6 years of battery life until the thing eventually sinks to the bottom and disintegrates under the pressure. There are about 3500 of these buoys in the oceans currently.
Last night, we crossed the Prime Meridian, at Latitude 21degrees south of the equator, headed east to Namibia! As we get further east, we lose about an hour a day. We've had about six 23hr. days this week. The ship runs on a 24 hr schedule, so sleep seems to suffer for the community...ugh. The ship is a bit rocky lately too. To explain why, I've included a quote from an Oceanography professor on the ship:
"As we approach the coast of Africa, the ship will enter the Benguela current. This current carries cold water to the north. The current is associated with coastal upwelling that brings nutrients to the surface and supports high biological productivity. The waters once supported a rich fishery but over-fishing has greatly reduced catches. The cold water also causes coastal fogs that have contributed to shipwrecks along this "Skeleton Coast" of Namibia."
I hope we fare better:)
Much love and I miss you all,
Bill
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Heather's life aboard the ship
Hello all~
Just wanted to share a few thoughts as we wander across the South Atlantic. We will be arriving in Walvis Bay, Namibia in just under 48 hours. Tonight we will have a Cultural Pre-port Meeting for the entire ship - this is a time dedicated to learning about various cultural aspects of the country we are about to visit. We also have a Logistical Pre-port Meeting. The former generally means some information about the local language(s), food, architecture, customs, etc. The latter is more about safety, transportation, etc.
Before arriving in Brasil, we were treated to a personal account of life in Salvador by our Interport student who was from Salvador. Unfortunately, we do not have anyone on the ship from Namibia. It is the first time that SAS is stopping in the country.
We have had an Interport Lecturer from Cape Town with us since leaving Brasil, Mohammed Adhikari - he's been giving guest lectures in classes and I'm hopeful Mohammed will talk in our Pre-port Meetings prior to arriving in Cape Town.
We also have had a post-doctoral scientist, Shane Elipot, with us since Brasil. He works for NOAA and calls Miami home, though he's originally from France. Shane's been dropping research beacons off the back of the ship about every 12 hours - they will monitor and record information such as ocean currents, temperature, etc. Bill was able to attend his lecture explaining the whole process - perhaps he will have a chance to elaborate on the project. Yesterday, a number of students wrote letters to King Neptune on the outside of the box that contains the beacon (all the materials are biodegradable) - it was very cute.
I've been enjoying a great number of lectures and discussions. Just last night Bill and I attended a book talk - the Academic Dean arranged for a series of books for the entire shipboard community to read if they choose to/have the time. We read "Disgrace" by J.M. Coetzee. It was very good and very disturbing - the story of a middle-aged, male Afrikaner set in post-Apartheid South Africa. The author actually won the Nobel Prize for "Waiting for the Barbarians" - his work paints a very painful metaphor for the racial tension and struggle for power in the country. The subsequent discussion was very stimulating - I'm not sure I've ever been in a book club with so many professors! Alas, I miss my Santa Cruz Bookslugs...I hope you are enjoying "Snow" - I haven't found a copy to read but am still looking.
I also just finished "To My Children's Children" by Sindwe Magona. That is the next book we'll discuss on the ship, post our stop in Cape Town. It's an autobiography of a young Xhosa woman growing up in the 1950-60s outside of Cape Town. Very moving. On of our Africanist professor's is leading that discussion. And, finally, I'm reading "Cry the Beloved Country" for the first time.
As you might gather, I am priviledged with a great deal of free time when on the ship. It's a blessing and a curse, I must say. I'm finding life on the ship a bit more difficult than I anticipated in terms of connecting myself to the community. I feel very welcomed and have made some great friends. What I struggle with is my role, particularly with the students. I've been attending some classes and getting to know students through this venue.
I've also "adopted" three girls as part of the Extended Family Program. I'm having dinner with them tonight - I've only met one so far so I'm very excited to get to know them. Victoria is originally from Spain and goes to UVa. Janelle and Lauryn I'm not sure yet.
Also, I've gotten involved with the GLBT Queering Alliance - this is for any participant who identifies as gay, lesbian, bisexual or transgendered and anyone who considers themselves an ally. I'm working right now with 3 students to identify areas, neighborhoods, clubs/bars, beaches, demonstrations, community organizations, etc in Cape Town that are gay friendly - we'll be presenting it to our GLBT group and hopefully to the entire shipboard community before arriving in South Africa.
Lastly, the lovely ladies in the Field Program Office (in-country programs) have adopted me - I'm hoping to start volunteering in their office soon.
My friend, Barbara Sobey, has started an informal walking group in the afternoons - we tromp around the ship for 30 minutes, wandering around all the nooks and crannies and up and down stairwells. Unfortunately there is no deck that you can do laps on - they all have some obstruction or other. But we're having fun. It's been about 4-5 faculty, staff and me. Barbara's husband, Ed, teaches Oceanography on the ship. They are from Redmond, WA and one of our favorite couples.
So much more I can write...but I'll sign off for now.
Much love,
heather ;)
Just wanted to share a few thoughts as we wander across the South Atlantic. We will be arriving in Walvis Bay, Namibia in just under 48 hours. Tonight we will have a Cultural Pre-port Meeting for the entire ship - this is a time dedicated to learning about various cultural aspects of the country we are about to visit. We also have a Logistical Pre-port Meeting. The former generally means some information about the local language(s), food, architecture, customs, etc. The latter is more about safety, transportation, etc.
Before arriving in Brasil, we were treated to a personal account of life in Salvador by our Interport student who was from Salvador. Unfortunately, we do not have anyone on the ship from Namibia. It is the first time that SAS is stopping in the country.
We have had an Interport Lecturer from Cape Town with us since leaving Brasil, Mohammed Adhikari - he's been giving guest lectures in classes and I'm hopeful Mohammed will talk in our Pre-port Meetings prior to arriving in Cape Town.
We also have had a post-doctoral scientist, Shane Elipot, with us since Brasil. He works for NOAA and calls Miami home, though he's originally from France. Shane's been dropping research beacons off the back of the ship about every 12 hours - they will monitor and record information such as ocean currents, temperature, etc. Bill was able to attend his lecture explaining the whole process - perhaps he will have a chance to elaborate on the project. Yesterday, a number of students wrote letters to King Neptune on the outside of the box that contains the beacon (all the materials are biodegradable) - it was very cute.
I've been enjoying a great number of lectures and discussions. Just last night Bill and I attended a book talk - the Academic Dean arranged for a series of books for the entire shipboard community to read if they choose to/have the time. We read "Disgrace" by J.M. Coetzee. It was very good and very disturbing - the story of a middle-aged, male Afrikaner set in post-Apartheid South Africa. The author actually won the Nobel Prize for "Waiting for the Barbarians" - his work paints a very painful metaphor for the racial tension and struggle for power in the country. The subsequent discussion was very stimulating - I'm not sure I've ever been in a book club with so many professors! Alas, I miss my Santa Cruz Bookslugs...I hope you are enjoying "Snow" - I haven't found a copy to read but am still looking.
I also just finished "To My Children's Children" by Sindwe Magona. That is the next book we'll discuss on the ship, post our stop in Cape Town. It's an autobiography of a young Xhosa woman growing up in the 1950-60s outside of Cape Town. Very moving. On of our Africanist professor's is leading that discussion. And, finally, I'm reading "Cry the Beloved Country" for the first time.
As you might gather, I am priviledged with a great deal of free time when on the ship. It's a blessing and a curse, I must say. I'm finding life on the ship a bit more difficult than I anticipated in terms of connecting myself to the community. I feel very welcomed and have made some great friends. What I struggle with is my role, particularly with the students. I've been attending some classes and getting to know students through this venue.
I've also "adopted" three girls as part of the Extended Family Program. I'm having dinner with them tonight - I've only met one so far so I'm very excited to get to know them. Victoria is originally from Spain and goes to UVa. Janelle and Lauryn I'm not sure yet.
Also, I've gotten involved with the GLBT Queering Alliance - this is for any participant who identifies as gay, lesbian, bisexual or transgendered and anyone who considers themselves an ally. I'm working right now with 3 students to identify areas, neighborhoods, clubs/bars, beaches, demonstrations, community organizations, etc in Cape Town that are gay friendly - we'll be presenting it to our GLBT group and hopefully to the entire shipboard community before arriving in South Africa.
Lastly, the lovely ladies in the Field Program Office (in-country programs) have adopted me - I'm hoping to start volunteering in their office soon.
My friend, Barbara Sobey, has started an informal walking group in the afternoons - we tromp around the ship for 30 minutes, wandering around all the nooks and crannies and up and down stairwells. Unfortunately there is no deck that you can do laps on - they all have some obstruction or other. But we're having fun. It's been about 4-5 faculty, staff and me. Barbara's husband, Ed, teaches Oceanography on the ship. They are from Redmond, WA and one of our favorite couples.
So much more I can write...but I'll sign off for now.
Much love,
heather ;)
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