Hello!
Our snail mailing address for Costa Rica has changed. Please note the change below and thanks in advance for writing! ;)
Port #12
William Heinrich & Heather Ricks
C/O MV Explorer
December 7, 2008
SCAN S.A. / ILG LOGISTICS
Edificio ILG Logistics
200 Mts Norte de Rotonda de Paso Ancho
PO Box 1242-1007
Centro Colon, San Jose, COSTA RICA
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Thoughts on the South China Sea
10/28/08
We spent the day yesterday on the ship while refueling in the harbor outside Singapore, a small island/nation on the south end of the Thai peninsula. Singapore actually looks like it would be part of peninsular Malaysia, but, like Hong Kong or the Vatican, it exists as it's own city-state. It was hot and muggy and stinky like bunker fuel and trash in the water. To get to Singapore, we had to pass through a relatively narrow shipping channel called the Straits of Malacca. This space in the world has a reputation for pirate attacks as it's a bit of a bottle neck for east-west shipping. We learned that 25% of the worlds oil is shipped through this one narrow channel. This makes for easy pickings for an ambitious and well armed modern pirate. An average tanker has a crew of about 15 people, so an organized pirate attack could easily subdue the people and take a ship. Our crew was on watch for the last few days, hatchets in hand ready to chop off any ropes, in contact with a private security firm for intel and we even had a Malaysian Navy gun boat escort in and out of Singapore harbor. No small task to organize.
We were no worse for the wear. Up through about 2005, the Malacca area experienced about 200 pirate attacks per year. Then the Singapore, Thai and Malaysian Navies got together to make the waters safe for travel and commerce. Attacks now average 12 per year thanks to these international efforts. A few of us on the ship noticed several F-16A fighters doing overflights. Most likely these are Malaysian aircraft. I'm glad for the vigilance. My friend Angie paraphrased the author George Orwell noting "I, myself, am a pacifist, but I sleep well at night knowing that brave men are willing to do violence to protect me."
We're headed north to Saigon, officially Ho Chi Minh City, named affectionately for 'Uncle Ho.' Just like with many stories in the world, there are more than two sides. Vietnam was part of China for 1000 years up through the 19th century when Japan had a foot hold. In about 1850, the French came in to colonize and shortly after the French, the American occupation began. For better or worse, there is a sense of nationalism and unity that is instilled, after a purge in the 70's, in the Vietnamese people present for having pushed through all this occupation. We've learned that Vietnam has opened up economically and is more or less friendly to tourists (and their dollars). Aside from petty problems expected while travelling, I'm really looking forward to this visit. Heather has organized a 3 day tour of the Mekong Delta area, so we're beefed up (and side-affected) on the anti-Malarial meds. I'm hoping to see some of the Cu Chi (city) tunnels that were used during the wartime period (1956-1977). I hear that some of the tunnels have been excavated to accommodate larger westerners:) phew.
Looking back a few days I feel like the visit to the country of Malaysia was a nice break between India and Vietnam. As I mentioned before, India was a mad house of stimuli, highly visceral in the sights, smells, air, noise, pace and smiles...India gets into your skin, you breath it's diesel fumes, you smell it's detrius, you taste the best and unique flavors of the food. By comparison, Malyasia is a resort town. There is some dirt and grime if you look for it, but the taxi's and busses are safe and efficient, the post office is safe and efficient, the food on the street is safe and efficient, etc. You get the picture. The most dangerous thing was not stepping into the 2 foot deep uncovered stormwater drains on the sides of the streets. I went into Malaysia with my guard up, I was leaning into another galestorm of stimuli and when we arrived, I was thrown off balance by the ease with which we were able to get around, find food and even interact with people on the street. I'm happy for the respite.
Heather and I are learning a lot about each other on this voyage too. Thanks to Mom and Dad for your words of encouragment and your prayers. The prayers help in a 9'x14' cabin, (including the bathroom). My prayers are with you all as you continue to work and live and plan and play and learn. Home is becoming a concept more than a place and I'm glad we can at least email to keep in touch. I'm really looking forward to our visits home in December.
We spent the day yesterday on the ship while refueling in the harbor outside Singapore, a small island/nation on the south end of the Thai peninsula. Singapore actually looks like it would be part of peninsular Malaysia, but, like Hong Kong or the Vatican, it exists as it's own city-state. It was hot and muggy and stinky like bunker fuel and trash in the water. To get to Singapore, we had to pass through a relatively narrow shipping channel called the Straits of Malacca. This space in the world has a reputation for pirate attacks as it's a bit of a bottle neck for east-west shipping. We learned that 25% of the worlds oil is shipped through this one narrow channel. This makes for easy pickings for an ambitious and well armed modern pirate. An average tanker has a crew of about 15 people, so an organized pirate attack could easily subdue the people and take a ship. Our crew was on watch for the last few days, hatchets in hand ready to chop off any ropes, in contact with a private security firm for intel and we even had a Malaysian Navy gun boat escort in and out of Singapore harbor. No small task to organize.
We were no worse for the wear. Up through about 2005, the Malacca area experienced about 200 pirate attacks per year. Then the Singapore, Thai and Malaysian Navies got together to make the waters safe for travel and commerce. Attacks now average 12 per year thanks to these international efforts. A few of us on the ship noticed several F-16A fighters doing overflights. Most likely these are Malaysian aircraft. I'm glad for the vigilance. My friend Angie paraphrased the author George Orwell noting "I, myself, am a pacifist, but I sleep well at night knowing that brave men are willing to do violence to protect me."
We're headed north to Saigon, officially Ho Chi Minh City, named affectionately for 'Uncle Ho.' Just like with many stories in the world, there are more than two sides. Vietnam was part of China for 1000 years up through the 19th century when Japan had a foot hold. In about 1850, the French came in to colonize and shortly after the French, the American occupation began. For better or worse, there is a sense of nationalism and unity that is instilled, after a purge in the 70's, in the Vietnamese people present for having pushed through all this occupation. We've learned that Vietnam has opened up economically and is more or less friendly to tourists (and their dollars). Aside from petty problems expected while travelling, I'm really looking forward to this visit. Heather has organized a 3 day tour of the Mekong Delta area, so we're beefed up (and side-affected) on the anti-Malarial meds. I'm hoping to see some of the Cu Chi (city) tunnels that were used during the wartime period (1956-1977). I hear that some of the tunnels have been excavated to accommodate larger westerners:) phew.
Looking back a few days I feel like the visit to the country of Malaysia was a nice break between India and Vietnam. As I mentioned before, India was a mad house of stimuli, highly visceral in the sights, smells, air, noise, pace and smiles...India gets into your skin, you breath it's diesel fumes, you smell it's detrius, you taste the best and unique flavors of the food. By comparison, Malyasia is a resort town. There is some dirt and grime if you look for it, but the taxi's and busses are safe and efficient, the post office is safe and efficient, the food on the street is safe and efficient, etc. You get the picture. The most dangerous thing was not stepping into the 2 foot deep uncovered stormwater drains on the sides of the streets. I went into Malaysia with my guard up, I was leaning into another galestorm of stimuli and when we arrived, I was thrown off balance by the ease with which we were able to get around, find food and even interact with people on the street. I'm happy for the respite.
Heather and I are learning a lot about each other on this voyage too. Thanks to Mom and Dad for your words of encouragment and your prayers. The prayers help in a 9'x14' cabin, (including the bathroom). My prayers are with you all as you continue to work and live and plan and play and learn. Home is becoming a concept more than a place and I'm glad we can at least email to keep in touch. I'm really looking forward to our visits home in December.
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Penag-A-Ranga & Pictures
I said some prayers and lit some candles at a Catholic Church and Buddhist temples while in Penang for Unk (great uncle Ed), who’s not doing so well with stage four Leukemia. Please keep him and my great-Aunt Jean in your thoughts and prayers in the coming days and weeks.
I heard from mom that it’s cooling off in the Midwest, back in the U.S.A. I'm actually a bit jealous of your 45 degree weather, in that I wouldn't be sweating thinking about taking a walk. Heather and I sweat on and walked all around the Georgetown and North areas of Penang, and enjoyed the sights and tastes of this old trading post of the Brits. The people there are a mix of Malay (locals) Indians and Chinese. We ate lots of street food and met some nice folks and on the flip side, actually saw an American movie, called Eagle Eye. It's a good suspense/thriller with lots of shoot-em up action and a nice escape to 'back home'. It is set in Chicago, Indy and D.C., so we were all too familiar with the setting and enjoying the break.
We learned the bus system and took advantage for thin fractions of taxi prices, making for many gift buying opportunities:) Christmas is coming! Heard from Jeanne about hosting Christmas dinner via an email invitation. Received letters from both Jeanne and Katy in the snail mail in Malaysia. It's really nice to get mail, so we're enjoying the personal touch and connection. Mom has inspired them well to write letters:) Hearing about the little kids is great too as they grow and join activities and really run the roost. Were we all like that? involved and engaged and busy? looking back, I can only say: Probably.
Penang Island, named for the Pinang Tree (like a palm) is also known as a Betel Nut Tree, giving a small, bitter tasting nut as a fruit. Lots of bitter fruit on this island, but none more pungent than the Diurion Fruit. My suggestion is not to try any chocolate covered diurion.
We will meet up with my sister Elyse in Honolulu for some turkey and Heather's cousin, David, in Shanghai. We'll stay with David, wife and three kids one night in Shanghai. He's having his company (Hewlett/Packard or Microsoft) driver take us around town for the day:) very swanky We'll take it. We've been hoofing it around and jumping taxi's and busses and motorbikes and rickshaws for 4 ports so it'll be nice to have someone who knows the city and isn't trying to swindle us.
Vietnam is up next, three quick sailing days and we land in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City). We'll see and smell what we can for a few days and then take a bicycle tour, with van support and hotels, around the Me Kong River Delta, to the south of Saigon. I'm really looking forward to this excursion and visiting Vietnam. So many stories and from the reading we've been doing, it sounds like an enchanted and hungry place. Not starving, but hungry for progress, change, growth and a better life. Something to which we can all look forward
Keep well,
Bill
***********
As Bill mentioned, we enjoyed some quiet time in Malaysia. It was wonderful to do so much walking around the vendor-lined streets of Chinatown and Little India. Georgetown is lovely and full of great food and sight-seeing. The Indian Festival of Lights (Deepvaldi) was officially today so we were witness to lots of preparation and good cheer both in Chennai and Penang.
Had a lovely time at a very large Chinese temple - Kek Lok Si Temple - while in Malaysia. It is one of the largest in Southeast Asia and worth the time to wander around and say a few prayers. I would love to see the temple in February during the Chinese New Year, all lit-up and enchanting.
Also really enjoyed a day spent hiking in a national park on Penang Island with our friends Ed and Barbara Sobey, Laxmi and Caroline Tewari and Arman Rosencranz. They are a fun group and full of laughs and stories. We all rode the bus to the park and hiked an hour through the jungle to Monkey Beach (where there were only a few monkeys - two of whom cornered Bill & I as we were trying to leave the beach. They seemed in search of food and thought for certain the camera was a handout).
Preparing ourselves for another stop - Viet Nam should be really great. We'll be doing a 3-day bicycle trip with 4 SAS friends through the Mekong Delta. We will supposedly be traveling by boat down the river at parts and stopping at some of the floating markets. Looking forward to this.
Thanks for the letters and emails! We love them!!
Michelle - got your email and saw your comments - thanks! I will try to write you back tomorrow. There were loads of wild dogs in India - everywhere. The dogs, goats and cows pretty much gleen the trash in India and make certain that nothing goes to waste. I'm glad that Julian liked his birthday card - I loved hearing that he carried it around all week.
I've put up some pictures from Malaysia:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
I hope you're all well. I have to run.
Miss and love you!!!
heather ;)
I heard from mom that it’s cooling off in the Midwest, back in the U.S.A. I'm actually a bit jealous of your 45 degree weather, in that I wouldn't be sweating thinking about taking a walk. Heather and I sweat on and walked all around the Georgetown and North areas of Penang, and enjoyed the sights and tastes of this old trading post of the Brits. The people there are a mix of Malay (locals) Indians and Chinese. We ate lots of street food and met some nice folks and on the flip side, actually saw an American movie, called Eagle Eye. It's a good suspense/thriller with lots of shoot-em up action and a nice escape to 'back home'. It is set in Chicago, Indy and D.C., so we were all too familiar with the setting and enjoying the break.
We learned the bus system and took advantage for thin fractions of taxi prices, making for many gift buying opportunities:) Christmas is coming! Heard from Jeanne about hosting Christmas dinner via an email invitation. Received letters from both Jeanne and Katy in the snail mail in Malaysia. It's really nice to get mail, so we're enjoying the personal touch and connection. Mom has inspired them well to write letters:) Hearing about the little kids is great too as they grow and join activities and really run the roost. Were we all like that? involved and engaged and busy? looking back, I can only say: Probably.
Penang Island, named for the Pinang Tree (like a palm) is also known as a Betel Nut Tree, giving a small, bitter tasting nut as a fruit. Lots of bitter fruit on this island, but none more pungent than the Diurion Fruit. My suggestion is not to try any chocolate covered diurion.
We will meet up with my sister Elyse in Honolulu for some turkey and Heather's cousin, David, in Shanghai. We'll stay with David, wife and three kids one night in Shanghai. He's having his company (Hewlett/Packard or Microsoft) driver take us around town for the day:) very swanky We'll take it. We've been hoofing it around and jumping taxi's and busses and motorbikes and rickshaws for 4 ports so it'll be nice to have someone who knows the city and isn't trying to swindle us.
Vietnam is up next, three quick sailing days and we land in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City). We'll see and smell what we can for a few days and then take a bicycle tour, with van support and hotels, around the Me Kong River Delta, to the south of Saigon. I'm really looking forward to this excursion and visiting Vietnam. So many stories and from the reading we've been doing, it sounds like an enchanted and hungry place. Not starving, but hungry for progress, change, growth and a better life. Something to which we can all look forward
Keep well,
Bill
***********
As Bill mentioned, we enjoyed some quiet time in Malaysia. It was wonderful to do so much walking around the vendor-lined streets of Chinatown and Little India. Georgetown is lovely and full of great food and sight-seeing. The Indian Festival of Lights (Deepvaldi) was officially today so we were witness to lots of preparation and good cheer both in Chennai and Penang.
Had a lovely time at a very large Chinese temple - Kek Lok Si Temple - while in Malaysia. It is one of the largest in Southeast Asia and worth the time to wander around and say a few prayers. I would love to see the temple in February during the Chinese New Year, all lit-up and enchanting.
Also really enjoyed a day spent hiking in a national park on Penang Island with our friends Ed and Barbara Sobey, Laxmi and Caroline Tewari and Arman Rosencranz. They are a fun group and full of laughs and stories. We all rode the bus to the park and hiked an hour through the jungle to Monkey Beach (where there were only a few monkeys - two of whom cornered Bill & I as we were trying to leave the beach. They seemed in search of food and thought for certain the camera was a handout).
Preparing ourselves for another stop - Viet Nam should be really great. We'll be doing a 3-day bicycle trip with 4 SAS friends through the Mekong Delta. We will supposedly be traveling by boat down the river at parts and stopping at some of the floating markets. Looking forward to this.
Thanks for the letters and emails! We love them!!
Michelle - got your email and saw your comments - thanks! I will try to write you back tomorrow. There were loads of wild dogs in India - everywhere. The dogs, goats and cows pretty much gleen the trash in India and make certain that nothing goes to waste. I'm glad that Julian liked his birthday card - I loved hearing that he carried it around all week.
I've put up some pictures from Malaysia:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
I hope you're all well. I have to run.
Miss and love you!!!
heather ;)
Monday, October 20, 2008
Incredible, Intense India
“It is said that a person can say whatever they want about India. And the opposite is also true.”
-American Diplomat to India, Oct. 2008
On Driving in India (from a U.S. Perspective, of course)
The drivers here are truly living on the edge of safety! Anyone of them, if they drove in the U.S. would kill someone and then be instantly killed by their own behaviors. There is no way to anticipate anyone's move in traffic and any two-lane road is simultaneously occupied, across, by
1. Several people standing in the lane waving down busses (there are no bus lanes)
2. Two motorcycles, two three-wheeled rickshaw's (big golf carts)
3. And any number of full sized city busses or lorry's (dump trucks).
4. Traffic from the oncoming lane (yep, in your lane, coming at you!)
Everyone passes and everyone honks when they pass to let you know they see you and are not going to hit you (honking is actually the one useful thing about the system). People pass on both sides and regularly pass in the on coming lanes, flashing their headlights and swerving in and out. From above, I'd like to see the flow, because it seems to work, although there are large numbers of pedestrian/traffic deaths everyday. I had to stop watching today due to my nerves, while on a motor coach bus, because every time I'd look up from a book, I'd see a large truck coming straight toward us...
On Food and Sport
It was Awesome! Spicy and full of flavor, every bite gave me a sense of adventure. And by adventure, I mean that I’d have an equal chance of truly enjoying the digestive process and truly abhorring that same experience. It is true one cannot trust the water to be safe, so Heather and I did not. We drank bottled water and sodas. The coffee was good, the cha’i was good, the tea was good. Did you know that the British, famous for their tea, received the gift of tea from India during their long occupation? What a blessing. And as we know, the same tea was of much debate during the infamous Boston Tea Party…and I heard that Boston is partying again for a team that has made a bit of a streak out of this winning business. Of course, as October, 2008 becomes another memory of a chance for the Chicago Cubs, I must lament another winning season of baseball only to be wasted in the postseason. On a lighter note, the Indian Cricket followers have much to celebrate as their top player, a 19 yr. veteran, broke the scoring record for runs in a lifetime at 12,000+ this week. We saved a few clippings from the English, Tamil and Hindi language papers.
On Color in India
The weather is hot, so the colors look brighter and the dingy looks dingier. Perhaps it’s the heat radiating off the street that makes the waves around my sun/heat stroked eyes see exaggerated color, but I truly enjoyed the color anyway. The silk saree’s (or sari’s) and salwar kameez’s were beautiful, even if there isn’t a size 46 salwar kameez anywhere in the country;) too bad for me, but it makes sense as it was rare to see an Indian over 5’10” high. I think the air keeps people smaller, that and the shortage of food in poor and/or rural parts of the country. The auto rickshaws, almost all yellow, are a ubiquitous sight on the street, weaving and dodging constantly. The two-wheelers (motorcycles) many times with 3-4 people on them, including a family with a toddler or infant in arms, sitting side saddle, also added flashes of yellow, orange, red, burgundy, brilliant purple, bright green and every mix of color and accent one can imagine to the visual landscape. In a background, one could see a celeste (mint) green bicycle, a bright red ‘Coca-Cola’ sign, a purple and pink city bus, a bright blue lorry (dumptruck) and some kind of bicycle!
On bicycles…
Bicycles, and I use the term generally to include the many working tricycles and working bikes, are everywhere, functional, and fascinating! The British left behind a legacy of brit-style touring/commuter bikes, fenders, bells and short handlebars cuff locks on the back wheels. A few more modern mountain bikes are on the streets, but don’t seem to hold up as well as the older ones. The working bikes are awesome and consist of a tricycle frame with a large basket on the back for hauling. Heather and I saw a lot of them in our travels around the towns. On different bikes, we saw the following (this is not, by any means, an exhaustive list): chickens for sale (about 20), 4-5 people, a full sized refrigerator, several large sacks of rice (think 40lbs), fruit, neatly stacked in a pyramid of oranges or Asian bananas, sleeping children, spare parts, water pipe, construction materials including bricks, mortar and lumber, raw granite for stone carving, rolls or bolts of silk and rolled up carpets.
On Reflections
By the end of 5 days, my lungs were a bit blackened with two-stroke and diesel fumes, my senses were overwhelmed by the stimuli and speed, my body was exhausted by the heat and movement and my soul was filled with the friendliness of a nation of self determined and aware people, making their way through a world full of choices.
Mahalo,
Bill
-American Diplomat to India, Oct. 2008
On Driving in India (from a U.S. Perspective, of course)
The drivers here are truly living on the edge of safety! Anyone of them, if they drove in the U.S. would kill someone and then be instantly killed by their own behaviors. There is no way to anticipate anyone's move in traffic and any two-lane road is simultaneously occupied, across, by
1. Several people standing in the lane waving down busses (there are no bus lanes)
2. Two motorcycles, two three-wheeled rickshaw's (big golf carts)
3. And any number of full sized city busses or lorry's (dump trucks).
4. Traffic from the oncoming lane (yep, in your lane, coming at you!)
Everyone passes and everyone honks when they pass to let you know they see you and are not going to hit you (honking is actually the one useful thing about the system). People pass on both sides and regularly pass in the on coming lanes, flashing their headlights and swerving in and out. From above, I'd like to see the flow, because it seems to work, although there are large numbers of pedestrian/traffic deaths everyday. I had to stop watching today due to my nerves, while on a motor coach bus, because every time I'd look up from a book, I'd see a large truck coming straight toward us...
On Food and Sport
It was Awesome! Spicy and full of flavor, every bite gave me a sense of adventure. And by adventure, I mean that I’d have an equal chance of truly enjoying the digestive process and truly abhorring that same experience. It is true one cannot trust the water to be safe, so Heather and I did not. We drank bottled water and sodas. The coffee was good, the cha’i was good, the tea was good. Did you know that the British, famous for their tea, received the gift of tea from India during their long occupation? What a blessing. And as we know, the same tea was of much debate during the infamous Boston Tea Party…and I heard that Boston is partying again for a team that has made a bit of a streak out of this winning business. Of course, as October, 2008 becomes another memory of a chance for the Chicago Cubs, I must lament another winning season of baseball only to be wasted in the postseason. On a lighter note, the Indian Cricket followers have much to celebrate as their top player, a 19 yr. veteran, broke the scoring record for runs in a lifetime at 12,000+ this week. We saved a few clippings from the English, Tamil and Hindi language papers.
On Color in India
The weather is hot, so the colors look brighter and the dingy looks dingier. Perhaps it’s the heat radiating off the street that makes the waves around my sun/heat stroked eyes see exaggerated color, but I truly enjoyed the color anyway. The silk saree’s (or sari’s) and salwar kameez’s were beautiful, even if there isn’t a size 46 salwar kameez anywhere in the country;) too bad for me, but it makes sense as it was rare to see an Indian over 5’10” high. I think the air keeps people smaller, that and the shortage of food in poor and/or rural parts of the country. The auto rickshaws, almost all yellow, are a ubiquitous sight on the street, weaving and dodging constantly. The two-wheelers (motorcycles) many times with 3-4 people on them, including a family with a toddler or infant in arms, sitting side saddle, also added flashes of yellow, orange, red, burgundy, brilliant purple, bright green and every mix of color and accent one can imagine to the visual landscape. In a background, one could see a celeste (mint) green bicycle, a bright red ‘Coca-Cola’ sign, a purple and pink city bus, a bright blue lorry (dumptruck) and some kind of bicycle!
On bicycles…
Bicycles, and I use the term generally to include the many working tricycles and working bikes, are everywhere, functional, and fascinating! The British left behind a legacy of brit-style touring/commuter bikes, fenders, bells and short handlebars cuff locks on the back wheels. A few more modern mountain bikes are on the streets, but don’t seem to hold up as well as the older ones. The working bikes are awesome and consist of a tricycle frame with a large basket on the back for hauling. Heather and I saw a lot of them in our travels around the towns. On different bikes, we saw the following (this is not, by any means, an exhaustive list): chickens for sale (about 20), 4-5 people, a full sized refrigerator, several large sacks of rice (think 40lbs), fruit, neatly stacked in a pyramid of oranges or Asian bananas, sleeping children, spare parts, water pipe, construction materials including bricks, mortar and lumber, raw granite for stone carving, rolls or bolts of silk and rolled up carpets.
On Reflections
By the end of 5 days, my lungs were a bit blackened with two-stroke and diesel fumes, my senses were overwhelmed by the stimuli and speed, my body was exhausted by the heat and movement and my soul was filled with the friendliness of a nation of self determined and aware people, making their way through a world full of choices.
Mahalo,
Bill
Honks & Head-bobs
We are sailing through the Nicobar Islands this evening. These islands are actually part of India, though we are really off the coasts of Sumatra, Malaysia and Thailand. The weather is still muggy and warm and the sun is shining. I saw my first pod of dolphins from the ship yesterday afternoon, just outside our cabin window. There must have been 30 dolphins in the group – so exciting.
As we move away from India, I am recalling the myriad sights, sounds, and smells that we encountered – a sensory-loaded experience that was like no other. India is truly a visceral place. You cannot move about the country without tasting the spices, smog and sweat in the air. And the smiles of the people you meet are infectious.
One of the diplomats who gave us a briefing on the morning of our arrival mentioned the quote (I forget by whom) – “Whatever you can say about India, the reverse is true.” So aptly put! For all the warmth and generosity of the people, there are so many without any material possessions and without food. For all the dirt and trash, there is a vivid beauty in the bright textiles and shrines. I was utterly amazed by the women, wearing their gorgeous, richly-colored, silk sarees. It’s as if they do not sweat or get their clothing dirty as they move about their day, commuting to work or sweeping the ground. A very dignified people.
Upon our arrival, Bill & I darted onto land as soon as was possible and hopped into a rickshaw and then into an auto-rickshaw (2-stroke, 3-wheeled and very fun). Our driver, Rama, took us to a few shops – it seems that many of the auto-rickshaw drivers are paid a commission to bring tourists to specific shops. We figured this out and were actually impressed with the amount of networking that occurs between various factions of society – a thoughtful and practical way to make some extra cash. Rama wanted to take us to a cobra/mongoose fight but we adamantly declined, multiple times. We found that folks are very persistent in India and you often have to repeat yourself or walk away. Rama drove on and we headed out of town to Mamallapuram for the night.
Mamallapuram has been deemed a World Heritage Site and it is full of very old temples and some amazing bas-relief stone carvings. It’s also on the coast so there is a lively fishing industry and we walked the beach among all the small fishing boats that had come in for the night. The coastline of eastern India was hit hard by the tsunami in December 2004. Some 3,000 people were killed in Chennai and more in Mamallapuram. We could see the rebuilt shops and homes as we walked the beach and the government housing that was built immediately following the tsunami for those that lost their homes. Some of the small fishing vessels had USAID or Red Cross painted across the stern.
The second day we returned to the ship – Bill had duty from 8pm to 8am. We wanted to head further south to Pondicherry but time did not allow. We had actually signed up for one of our few SAS trips on this whole trip. This one was an overnight visit to Kanchipuram – a town about 75km from Chennai. We were hosted by an NGO called Rural Institute of Development Education (RIDE). It’s been around since 1984 and their focus was initially on relieving child labor from silk factories. Their work now also includes working to relieve child labor in the stonecutting business as well as supporting small groups, called “Self Help Groups”, that are intended to encourage and scaffold projects like small-business loans, personal home loans, etc.
We visited with a group of RIDE women in a small village outside of Kanchipuram and were treated to a very warm welcome and tour of the area. We had the opportunity to see some of the local homes and huts. The village was separated into two sections – one for the Dalit (untouchable) people and the other for a different, higher caste. I was told that this is common in the more rural areas. In Chennai, the closest thing to caste housing that I witnessed were the shantytowns tucked under bridges or along the rivers. The poverty is indescribable really. As with all of these ports, the images and interactions are still sifting through me.
Upon returning to Chennai, Bill & I headed into town for dinner and in search of some more really great food. South Indian food is amazing and we shared a meal with two young men at a very popular chain called Saravana Bhavan (there is one in the bay area that we’ll have to search out upon our return to California). The two men were brothers, one just finished with university and the other in his last year of high school. We had a great time chatting with them and comparing stories. After dinner, we tried to catch a movie at one of the many theaters (movies are very big in India) but the show was sold out.
We ventured out early on our last day in town, meeting our driver at 9am. Rama sent us off with a different driver, Purush, whom we had met on our second day. He took very good care of us that last day – helping us to order a few photo prints for some of Bill’s students, making certain we purchased the correct postage at the post office and showing us a few more shops so that we could purchase some last-minute souvenirs. We had lunch at a place called Mocha – very Latin feeling, actually, with outdoor seating and brightly colored walls. I had a lovely cup of chai and Bill enjoyed some Indian Peaberry coffee. We also indulged in an amazing dark chocolate dessert and some yummy sandwiches. Afterward it was time to head back to the ship.
Some of my favorite things about India:
*butter paneer masala & as much garlic naan as we could eat
*lime sodas
*The head-bobbing!! South Indians nod their head as they listen, much like we do in the US – except they nod from side to side, moving with their chin.
*horns – when driving, everyone honks to let you know they are behind you or coming at you. There is very little, if any, aggression despite the insane amount of things on the roadway including bicycles, large buses, people, and cows.
*the dhotis (long pieces of cloth wrapped at the waist, like a skirt – worn by men) and the sarees
*the colorful cattle horns painted red and green and adorned with bells
*the spirituality of the country, in general
*bikes, bikes, bikes!
I’ve put up some photos to our webpage:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Enjoy!
Thanks, Woody & Joy, for your letter! And Elyse – thanks for your letter and the notes from your students! We sent you a number of response letters written by us and some of the Red Sea students.
Happy Birthday, Julian!
And Happy Belated Birthday, Ed Paco!
Much love,
heather ;)
As we move away from India, I am recalling the myriad sights, sounds, and smells that we encountered – a sensory-loaded experience that was like no other. India is truly a visceral place. You cannot move about the country without tasting the spices, smog and sweat in the air. And the smiles of the people you meet are infectious.
One of the diplomats who gave us a briefing on the morning of our arrival mentioned the quote (I forget by whom) – “Whatever you can say about India, the reverse is true.” So aptly put! For all the warmth and generosity of the people, there are so many without any material possessions and without food. For all the dirt and trash, there is a vivid beauty in the bright textiles and shrines. I was utterly amazed by the women, wearing their gorgeous, richly-colored, silk sarees. It’s as if they do not sweat or get their clothing dirty as they move about their day, commuting to work or sweeping the ground. A very dignified people.
Upon our arrival, Bill & I darted onto land as soon as was possible and hopped into a rickshaw and then into an auto-rickshaw (2-stroke, 3-wheeled and very fun). Our driver, Rama, took us to a few shops – it seems that many of the auto-rickshaw drivers are paid a commission to bring tourists to specific shops. We figured this out and were actually impressed with the amount of networking that occurs between various factions of society – a thoughtful and practical way to make some extra cash. Rama wanted to take us to a cobra/mongoose fight but we adamantly declined, multiple times. We found that folks are very persistent in India and you often have to repeat yourself or walk away. Rama drove on and we headed out of town to Mamallapuram for the night.
Mamallapuram has been deemed a World Heritage Site and it is full of very old temples and some amazing bas-relief stone carvings. It’s also on the coast so there is a lively fishing industry and we walked the beach among all the small fishing boats that had come in for the night. The coastline of eastern India was hit hard by the tsunami in December 2004. Some 3,000 people were killed in Chennai and more in Mamallapuram. We could see the rebuilt shops and homes as we walked the beach and the government housing that was built immediately following the tsunami for those that lost their homes. Some of the small fishing vessels had USAID or Red Cross painted across the stern.
The second day we returned to the ship – Bill had duty from 8pm to 8am. We wanted to head further south to Pondicherry but time did not allow. We had actually signed up for one of our few SAS trips on this whole trip. This one was an overnight visit to Kanchipuram – a town about 75km from Chennai. We were hosted by an NGO called Rural Institute of Development Education (RIDE). It’s been around since 1984 and their focus was initially on relieving child labor from silk factories. Their work now also includes working to relieve child labor in the stonecutting business as well as supporting small groups, called “Self Help Groups”, that are intended to encourage and scaffold projects like small-business loans, personal home loans, etc.
We visited with a group of RIDE women in a small village outside of Kanchipuram and were treated to a very warm welcome and tour of the area. We had the opportunity to see some of the local homes and huts. The village was separated into two sections – one for the Dalit (untouchable) people and the other for a different, higher caste. I was told that this is common in the more rural areas. In Chennai, the closest thing to caste housing that I witnessed were the shantytowns tucked under bridges or along the rivers. The poverty is indescribable really. As with all of these ports, the images and interactions are still sifting through me.
Upon returning to Chennai, Bill & I headed into town for dinner and in search of some more really great food. South Indian food is amazing and we shared a meal with two young men at a very popular chain called Saravana Bhavan (there is one in the bay area that we’ll have to search out upon our return to California). The two men were brothers, one just finished with university and the other in his last year of high school. We had a great time chatting with them and comparing stories. After dinner, we tried to catch a movie at one of the many theaters (movies are very big in India) but the show was sold out.
We ventured out early on our last day in town, meeting our driver at 9am. Rama sent us off with a different driver, Purush, whom we had met on our second day. He took very good care of us that last day – helping us to order a few photo prints for some of Bill’s students, making certain we purchased the correct postage at the post office and showing us a few more shops so that we could purchase some last-minute souvenirs. We had lunch at a place called Mocha – very Latin feeling, actually, with outdoor seating and brightly colored walls. I had a lovely cup of chai and Bill enjoyed some Indian Peaberry coffee. We also indulged in an amazing dark chocolate dessert and some yummy sandwiches. Afterward it was time to head back to the ship.
Some of my favorite things about India:
*butter paneer masala & as much garlic naan as we could eat
*lime sodas
*The head-bobbing!! South Indians nod their head as they listen, much like we do in the US – except they nod from side to side, moving with their chin.
*horns – when driving, everyone honks to let you know they are behind you or coming at you. There is very little, if any, aggression despite the insane amount of things on the roadway including bicycles, large buses, people, and cows.
*the dhotis (long pieces of cloth wrapped at the waist, like a skirt – worn by men) and the sarees
*the colorful cattle horns painted red and green and adorned with bells
*the spirituality of the country, in general
*bikes, bikes, bikes!
I’ve put up some photos to our webpage:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Enjoy!
Thanks, Woody & Joy, for your letter! And Elyse – thanks for your letter and the notes from your students! We sent you a number of response letters written by us and some of the Red Sea students.
Happy Birthday, Julian!
And Happy Belated Birthday, Ed Paco!
Much love,
heather ;)
Friday, October 10, 2008
Ship email and posting comments on our blog
Hello!
Yes, we can see your posted comments and we love them! Keep 'em coming - it helps us remember that folks are actually reading our rambling blog postings.
Just a few reminders:
Shipboard email (Intranet - so we can access all the time):
hricks@semesteratsea.net
wheinrich@semesteratsea.net
Photo site (you can post comments on that one too):
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
We are 4 nights from India - very exciting! The Indian Ocean has been very pretty, though yesterday was quite rough. This was especially unfortunate as it was not only Yom Kippur but also our shipboard Sea Olympics festivities. Synchronized Swimming became "Synchronized Dance" in our Union as the seas were too big to fill the pool (too dangerous). A few other events had to be slightly modified but the day went off without a hitch.
Perhaps Bill will have some time to write about the whole thing. Putting together this day was one of his primary responsibilities as the Recreation LLC (Living Learning Coordinator). He and the committee did a fantastic job. The Yellow Sea took the gold. Our Red Sea won the Flag design competition, Dodge ball and placed in other events. We also tied for second for our Chant/Mascot. Lots of spirit on our deck!
I'm off to dinner.
Love to you all,
heather ;)
Yes, we can see your posted comments and we love them! Keep 'em coming - it helps us remember that folks are actually reading our rambling blog postings.
Just a few reminders:
Shipboard email (Intranet - so we can access all the time):
hricks@semesteratsea.net
wheinrich@semesteratsea.net
Photo site (you can post comments on that one too):
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
We are 4 nights from India - very exciting! The Indian Ocean has been very pretty, though yesterday was quite rough. This was especially unfortunate as it was not only Yom Kippur but also our shipboard Sea Olympics festivities. Synchronized Swimming became "Synchronized Dance" in our Union as the seas were too big to fill the pool (too dangerous). A few other events had to be slightly modified but the day went off without a hitch.
Perhaps Bill will have some time to write about the whole thing. Putting together this day was one of his primary responsibilities as the Recreation LLC (Living Learning Coordinator). He and the committee did a fantastic job. The Yellow Sea took the gold. Our Red Sea won the Flag design competition, Dodge ball and placed in other events. We also tied for second for our Chant/Mascot. Lots of spirit on our deck!
I'm off to dinner.
Love to you all,
heather ;)
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Seductively Beautiful Cape Town
The alarm clock rang at 5:30am and Bill and I dragged ourselves up onto one elbow to peer out our portside window for any view of land. Lucky for us, we were traveling south along the South African coastline from Namibia. Sunrise was not until 6:30am but the local pilot was to board our ship at 5am for a 6:30 docking. We certainly did not want to miss the potentially dramatic arrival into Cape Town with the sun rising behind Table Mountain. Alas, after making our way to the front and top of the ship, in the warm confines of the Faculty/Staff Lounge, we found our view to be clouded with gray mist and faraway lights off the portside. As we watched, we seemed to be sailing right past the lights and the dim outline of the great, flat-top mountain that stretches almost to the waterline. We continued past the lights and turned out toward the ocean, rocking and rolling with the rough waves. It seemed, the water was too rough and we had to circle a bit out in the deeper water. Eventually, we came around full circle and headed toward the Cape Town harbor from a more southerly direction and could begin to make out the details of the coastal city and neighboring towns.
As we made our way closer to the narrow channel that we would negotiate in order to enter the Waterfront, we passed low-lying Robben Island on our port side, home to many political prisoners during the Apartheid era including Nelson Mandela. In contrast, our starboard view began to unveil large, beautiful homes built into the cliffs along the Atlantic seaboard – communities like Sea Point and Clifton that were historically white only. Already, Cape Town was welcoming us into her troubled racial history. We arrived dockside at Jetty #2 in the Victoria & Albert Waterfront and it felt like Pier 39 in San Francisco. Full of shops, restaurants and companies advertising various outings such as helicopter rides, 1-day safari tours, champagne cruises and shark-cage diving, the Waterfront was beautiful and colorful. It felt very safe and very Western. Complete with food from around the world, the only thing missing (thankfully) was a Starbucks.
Behind the Waterfront sat the skyscrapers of the City Centre/Bo-Kaap supported by the dramatic backdrop of Table Mountain, flanked on the left by Devil’s Peak and on the right by Lion’s Head and Signal Hill. The latter is only 1000 feet high and was used by the early Dutch settlers – as a new ship would approach the Cape, a flag would be raised to alert the shopkeepers to ready their goods for sale. On the second day of our stay, Bill and I walked to the top of Signal Hill with our friends, Ed & Barbara Sobey. As we approached the saddle between Signal Hill and Lion’s Head from the west (ocean side), we kept our ears open for the guttural sounds of baboons (just in case) and we were pleasantly surprised by the totally unexpected sound of prayers being sung. As we drew nearer to the top of Signal Hill we passed an old mosque and a few marked graves. There were two men in different spots singing songs of mourning.
After leaving the Sobeys to pick their way back down the hill to our ship, Bill and I turned around and walked back past the mosque and up the path toward Lion’s Head. *If you look at www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com you can find this peak – it’s very pointed on the top. Signal Hill is affectionately called the Lion’s Rump* It took us just over an hour until we sat atop, munching on our PB&J sandwiches and chocolate cookies. The last 30 minutes we scrambled up ladders and chain-supported sections with hand-holds pounded into the rock. It was a steep, steep and exposed top. Felt a bit like climbing Mt. Katahdin in central Maine.
When we were well-rested, we set off down Lion’s Head only this time we wanted to head southeast toward the main approach to Table Mountain. We skirted the large, massive mountain on its west side as we walked the Pipe Track under the Twelve Apostles (a series of peaks that stretch down toward the tip of the Cape Peninsula). We found our route up, called The Diagonal. Turns out that the trail builders in South Africa like to go straight up, with little to no switchbacks. We started literally climbing rock stairs up into a drainage we were to follow south around multiple buttresses. At one point, the trail directed us at a good 60 degree angle up Porcupine Ravine. We picked our way along the rocks, hoping to not surprise a Cape Cobra or Berg Adder sunning itself on a rock. Very long walk later, we made our way into the Valley of the Red Gods and then, finally, north again toward Echo Valley and the summit of Table Mountain.
Eight hours since leaving our ship, we sat upon the Western Table drenched and wet amidst the cool breeze and dropping temperatures. It was one of those awkward moments when you’ve drug yourself up a physically challenging route with no one around to suddenly find yourself surrounded by many people looking freshly showered and smelling clean, eating hamburgers and sipping cool drinks and shopping in the gift shop (they presumably rode the cable car). We bought two Cokes and ate our remaining sandwiches and fruit. We also rode the cable car down the hill – it was a sweet splurge.
Other moments of note from our time in Cape Town included a day spent riding the commuter train and a day spent in Stellenbosch.
Commuter Train:
We spent one day with our friend, Molly Sorice (the assistant librarian). We picked up the train from City Centre and our first stop was Muizenberg for surf. Bill ended up being the only one brave enough to face the cold water. Molly and I sat in a café and chatted while munching on some very good scones with jam and fresh cream. Bill had a 2-hour session and scratched his surfing itch. The waves were frequent and thigh-to-waist high. The crowds were very thin and he caught many waves.
We all hopped back onto the Red Line. From Muizenberg the train line follows the coast, sometimes sitting only a few feet from the water. We stopped in Kalk Bay, just 2 more stops down the track. We quickly found the original Cape to Cuba restaurant tucked against the train tracks in this quaint town. It reminded me of Ciao Bella with all the eclectic furniture and artwork. Everything in the restaurant has been imported from Cuba, Russia and another place I cannot recall. The food was soooo good. Spicy and warm, washed down with beer from Havana.
From there, we trained it to Simon’s Town. Along this last 20 minutes, we spotted five or six Right Whales as they rolled along the coastline only 30 feet from shore. We also spotted two shark fins cruising past! In Simon’s Town we walked 3km to a wonderful treat, The Tibetan Teahouse, where we sat on a balcony overlooking the water and drank pots of chai and coffee with warm milk. Next we set off for Boulders Beach to see the colony of Jackass Penguins – so freakin’ cute.
Stellenbosch:
This was one of our few SAS trips – we went first to Stellenbosch University and were led around campus by a student, Lieb, for a tour. We were then treated to a very interesting lecture about the university system in SA, particularly post-Apartheid. Following this, we were driven out to Denheim Vineyards for a wine cellar tour and tasting with lunch. So lovely and beautiful, despite the rainy day. A day well-spent though difficult to swallow – on the way to Stellenbosch (about 30 minutes drive, in the winelands that are nestled just outside of Cape Town proper), I had my first glimpse of the townships. We drove, in our luxury tour buses, along a normal-looking highway – 2 lanes on either side and similar to our larger roads in the US. I had seen pictures and movies about South Africa’s townships but I was still under-prepared emotionally for the reality of the lack of housing resources that these communities have been historically given. Bill and I both made a conscious choice to not participate in any Township Tours, either with SAS or with local companies. It felt like taking a tour of historically poor neighborhoods in the States – very contrived. However, I felt torn by a responsibility to see these living, breathing spaces. For that I am grateful for a small glimpse from the bus. I am still processing and considering the economic apartheid that still exists in South Africa.
Similarly, during our numerous outings I was often reminded that just 14 years ago most of Cape Town's citizens were unable to visit the same places I was seeing. Table Mountain and the beaches, for example, were white-only during Apartheid. And the commuter train we took to Simon's Town was histocially a "black" train as it was mostly used by domestic-working women as they travelled between their homes in Cape Flats (the townships) and the white neighborhoods on the Cape Penisula. Most of these women actually lived in small rooms behind the employer's house and were only able to travel home to see their own children and families on Sundays.
Other interesting things from the last few days:
*Playing frogger as we attempted to cross the busy roads near the Waterfront - reading the traffic on the left side of the road got easier as time passed but some of the streets are really large and not pedestrian-friendly. We actually had one guy selling newspapers give us an escort across at one point - he was very sweet.
*The quaint, little French cafe that we found in the Waterkant neighborhood. We were in search of a bicycle shop/cafe that had apparently moved since our guide book was published. Le Petite Tarte was just around the corner and was a much better find, in our minds. We went back a second day for another lovely coffee and chocolate croissant. Heavenly.
*Whales, whales, whales! We've been seeing pods of Humpback whales from the ship for two days. They consist of 2-3 members and have been as close as 100 feet. I watched multiple adults breaching from the front deck of our ship a few days ago. Another spiritual experience for me. As my friend, Ed Sobey, commented, "If you are not moved by watching a whale swim through the ocean, you might not have a soul."
I am, in fact, still processing much of my visit to South Africa. It was a vibrant and full seven days. As a shipboard community, many of us are still sorting through the experience as we start to look east toward India. I’m finding there is not enough time for reflection nor the proper tools in place for the work that could be done for all members of this community. There is so much to process.
In general, the African continent treated me very well and I was very sad two nights ago to pull away from the dock in Cape Town. The south/southeast coast of South Africa has been visible from our ship for two days now. It is with a heavy heart that I wave good-bye to a place that feels like a long-lost friend. I hope and pray that I will return to some piece of this great, large, complex continent very soon.
Thanks, again, Woody for another letter. Loved your ideas for Cape Town - we didn't actually get your letter until the last day but luckily we had done most of what you suggested. But the copies of your scrapbook have given me great ideas!
We received the Falkiners card and Elyse's class letters - thank you all!!! Our cabin wall is starting to really fill up with these cards and letters and makes it feel a bit more like home.
Sarah Hoffman - Bill mentioned that you sent something to Namibia. I'm very sad that we did not receive it. Thank you for thinking of us.
We're still wondering if any of our postcards from Brasil made it to the States. We sent about 15 of them and are sad they didn't reach their intended homes.
Hope opening went well for the UCSC folks!!
Joy & Joe - Mandy (Mag) is with us now. He is so great! And he said hello to you both with smile.
Sarah - I heard that two of our dining hall crew were on the Scholarship - I'm still trying to hunt them down. We had 35 crew leave us in Cape Town and, obviously, 35 more embark so I'm still getting to know the new faces.
I'm sure there is something else I wanted to write but I will sign off for now. Much love to everyone!!
heather ;)
As we made our way closer to the narrow channel that we would negotiate in order to enter the Waterfront, we passed low-lying Robben Island on our port side, home to many political prisoners during the Apartheid era including Nelson Mandela. In contrast, our starboard view began to unveil large, beautiful homes built into the cliffs along the Atlantic seaboard – communities like Sea Point and Clifton that were historically white only. Already, Cape Town was welcoming us into her troubled racial history. We arrived dockside at Jetty #2 in the Victoria & Albert Waterfront and it felt like Pier 39 in San Francisco. Full of shops, restaurants and companies advertising various outings such as helicopter rides, 1-day safari tours, champagne cruises and shark-cage diving, the Waterfront was beautiful and colorful. It felt very safe and very Western. Complete with food from around the world, the only thing missing (thankfully) was a Starbucks.
Behind the Waterfront sat the skyscrapers of the City Centre/Bo-Kaap supported by the dramatic backdrop of Table Mountain, flanked on the left by Devil’s Peak and on the right by Lion’s Head and Signal Hill. The latter is only 1000 feet high and was used by the early Dutch settlers – as a new ship would approach the Cape, a flag would be raised to alert the shopkeepers to ready their goods for sale. On the second day of our stay, Bill and I walked to the top of Signal Hill with our friends, Ed & Barbara Sobey. As we approached the saddle between Signal Hill and Lion’s Head from the west (ocean side), we kept our ears open for the guttural sounds of baboons (just in case) and we were pleasantly surprised by the totally unexpected sound of prayers being sung. As we drew nearer to the top of Signal Hill we passed an old mosque and a few marked graves. There were two men in different spots singing songs of mourning.
After leaving the Sobeys to pick their way back down the hill to our ship, Bill and I turned around and walked back past the mosque and up the path toward Lion’s Head. *If you look at www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com you can find this peak – it’s very pointed on the top. Signal Hill is affectionately called the Lion’s Rump* It took us just over an hour until we sat atop, munching on our PB&J sandwiches and chocolate cookies. The last 30 minutes we scrambled up ladders and chain-supported sections with hand-holds pounded into the rock. It was a steep, steep and exposed top. Felt a bit like climbing Mt. Katahdin in central Maine.
When we were well-rested, we set off down Lion’s Head only this time we wanted to head southeast toward the main approach to Table Mountain. We skirted the large, massive mountain on its west side as we walked the Pipe Track under the Twelve Apostles (a series of peaks that stretch down toward the tip of the Cape Peninsula). We found our route up, called The Diagonal. Turns out that the trail builders in South Africa like to go straight up, with little to no switchbacks. We started literally climbing rock stairs up into a drainage we were to follow south around multiple buttresses. At one point, the trail directed us at a good 60 degree angle up Porcupine Ravine. We picked our way along the rocks, hoping to not surprise a Cape Cobra or Berg Adder sunning itself on a rock. Very long walk later, we made our way into the Valley of the Red Gods and then, finally, north again toward Echo Valley and the summit of Table Mountain.
Eight hours since leaving our ship, we sat upon the Western Table drenched and wet amidst the cool breeze and dropping temperatures. It was one of those awkward moments when you’ve drug yourself up a physically challenging route with no one around to suddenly find yourself surrounded by many people looking freshly showered and smelling clean, eating hamburgers and sipping cool drinks and shopping in the gift shop (they presumably rode the cable car). We bought two Cokes and ate our remaining sandwiches and fruit. We also rode the cable car down the hill – it was a sweet splurge.
Other moments of note from our time in Cape Town included a day spent riding the commuter train and a day spent in Stellenbosch.
Commuter Train:
We spent one day with our friend, Molly Sorice (the assistant librarian). We picked up the train from City Centre and our first stop was Muizenberg for surf. Bill ended up being the only one brave enough to face the cold water. Molly and I sat in a café and chatted while munching on some very good scones with jam and fresh cream. Bill had a 2-hour session and scratched his surfing itch. The waves were frequent and thigh-to-waist high. The crowds were very thin and he caught many waves.
We all hopped back onto the Red Line. From Muizenberg the train line follows the coast, sometimes sitting only a few feet from the water. We stopped in Kalk Bay, just 2 more stops down the track. We quickly found the original Cape to Cuba restaurant tucked against the train tracks in this quaint town. It reminded me of Ciao Bella with all the eclectic furniture and artwork. Everything in the restaurant has been imported from Cuba, Russia and another place I cannot recall. The food was soooo good. Spicy and warm, washed down with beer from Havana.
From there, we trained it to Simon’s Town. Along this last 20 minutes, we spotted five or six Right Whales as they rolled along the coastline only 30 feet from shore. We also spotted two shark fins cruising past! In Simon’s Town we walked 3km to a wonderful treat, The Tibetan Teahouse, where we sat on a balcony overlooking the water and drank pots of chai and coffee with warm milk. Next we set off for Boulders Beach to see the colony of Jackass Penguins – so freakin’ cute.
Stellenbosch:
This was one of our few SAS trips – we went first to Stellenbosch University and were led around campus by a student, Lieb, for a tour. We were then treated to a very interesting lecture about the university system in SA, particularly post-Apartheid. Following this, we were driven out to Denheim Vineyards for a wine cellar tour and tasting with lunch. So lovely and beautiful, despite the rainy day. A day well-spent though difficult to swallow – on the way to Stellenbosch (about 30 minutes drive, in the winelands that are nestled just outside of Cape Town proper), I had my first glimpse of the townships. We drove, in our luxury tour buses, along a normal-looking highway – 2 lanes on either side and similar to our larger roads in the US. I had seen pictures and movies about South Africa’s townships but I was still under-prepared emotionally for the reality of the lack of housing resources that these communities have been historically given. Bill and I both made a conscious choice to not participate in any Township Tours, either with SAS or with local companies. It felt like taking a tour of historically poor neighborhoods in the States – very contrived. However, I felt torn by a responsibility to see these living, breathing spaces. For that I am grateful for a small glimpse from the bus. I am still processing and considering the economic apartheid that still exists in South Africa.
Similarly, during our numerous outings I was often reminded that just 14 years ago most of Cape Town's citizens were unable to visit the same places I was seeing. Table Mountain and the beaches, for example, were white-only during Apartheid. And the commuter train we took to Simon's Town was histocially a "black" train as it was mostly used by domestic-working women as they travelled between their homes in Cape Flats (the townships) and the white neighborhoods on the Cape Penisula. Most of these women actually lived in small rooms behind the employer's house and were only able to travel home to see their own children and families on Sundays.
Other interesting things from the last few days:
*Playing frogger as we attempted to cross the busy roads near the Waterfront - reading the traffic on the left side of the road got easier as time passed but some of the streets are really large and not pedestrian-friendly. We actually had one guy selling newspapers give us an escort across at one point - he was very sweet.
*The quaint, little French cafe that we found in the Waterkant neighborhood. We were in search of a bicycle shop/cafe that had apparently moved since our guide book was published. Le Petite Tarte was just around the corner and was a much better find, in our minds. We went back a second day for another lovely coffee and chocolate croissant. Heavenly.
*Whales, whales, whales! We've been seeing pods of Humpback whales from the ship for two days. They consist of 2-3 members and have been as close as 100 feet. I watched multiple adults breaching from the front deck of our ship a few days ago. Another spiritual experience for me. As my friend, Ed Sobey, commented, "If you are not moved by watching a whale swim through the ocean, you might not have a soul."
I am, in fact, still processing much of my visit to South Africa. It was a vibrant and full seven days. As a shipboard community, many of us are still sorting through the experience as we start to look east toward India. I’m finding there is not enough time for reflection nor the proper tools in place for the work that could be done for all members of this community. There is so much to process.
In general, the African continent treated me very well and I was very sad two nights ago to pull away from the dock in Cape Town. The south/southeast coast of South Africa has been visible from our ship for two days now. It is with a heavy heart that I wave good-bye to a place that feels like a long-lost friend. I hope and pray that I will return to some piece of this great, large, complex continent very soon.
Thanks, again, Woody for another letter. Loved your ideas for Cape Town - we didn't actually get your letter until the last day but luckily we had done most of what you suggested. But the copies of your scrapbook have given me great ideas!
We received the Falkiners card and Elyse's class letters - thank you all!!! Our cabin wall is starting to really fill up with these cards and letters and makes it feel a bit more like home.
Sarah Hoffman - Bill mentioned that you sent something to Namibia. I'm very sad that we did not receive it. Thank you for thinking of us.
We're still wondering if any of our postcards from Brasil made it to the States. We sent about 15 of them and are sad they didn't reach their intended homes.
Hope opening went well for the UCSC folks!!
Joy & Joe - Mandy (Mag) is with us now. He is so great! And he said hello to you both with smile.
Sarah - I heard that two of our dining hall crew were on the Scholarship - I'm still trying to hunt them down. We had 35 crew leave us in Cape Town and, obviously, 35 more embark so I'm still getting to know the new faces.
I'm sure there is something else I wanted to write but I will sign off for now. Much love to everyone!!
heather ;)
Saturday, October 4, 2008
Happy Birthday Mom!!! 10/4/08
First and Foremost, Let me (and Heather) take this special day to wish my mom, Viv, a very happy 29th birthday!!!! October 4th is always a happy day because it’s a time to celebrate mom (and to know that as a student affairs guy, most of the hardest work has just been done), either way, Mom, I hope yours is a truly happy birthday!
We’re sailing north and east now, two days out of Capetown and we can still see the coastline as we move past pods of southern Bottlenose dolphins, southern Right whales and even some Humpback whales.
The southern Right whales are in the coastal areas of Capetown and the whole S. African Coast. They are named such because in their overhunting, whalers noticed that these whales yielded lots of blubber to be processed and, conveniently, didn't sink when they were harpooned...unlucky for them. Speaking of raw fish, Heather and I had a great sushi dinner at a swanky joint, more reminiscent of Manhattan than Africa, called Beluga. A nice host named Lawerence took a liking to me and found us a table despite our lack of reservation (or booking). The sushi made me think of the west coast of our own continent and all the good fish we enjoy. Then I got to missing friends and family everywhere and really not looking forward to the 11 day passage to Chennai.
But I have the fond memories of this trip to the continent of Africa. These countries (Namibia and South Africa) have much in common and really give me pause when I think of the disparities present in the walking life of the city. I should say that in the 4 years since my last visit to Capetown, I have noticed on this trip a much more visible African middle class of workers and professionals. The billboard advertising is reflecting that as well with more upscale products marketed directly to African individuals. There is still plenty of visible racism, but many of the institutions are working hard to make their places of work and employment inclusive in number and culture.
Heather and I had a great hike up Table mountain (1084 m), Lion's Head peak (780 m) and Signal Hill (304 m) all on Saturday last week. These three peaks form a ridge line from the coast up to the top of Table mountain and really make for a dramatic view from the ocean or the summit. We cheated our way down on the gondola/cable car, complete with a rotating floor for 360 degree views on the 4 minute ride down to the base.
Today on the water, I noticed the color had changed from a gray/green of the Atlantic to a deep midnight blue of the Indian Ocean. Our first night out of Capetown had us literally bouncing around as we crossed the line (on the map) where the two oceans actually come together. I'm not sure if there is a giant mythical whirlpool there, but if there was, our ship's Captain managed to avoid it and the Siren's song of Antarctica to the very far south.
Sunday and Monday last week found Heather and I dodging raindrops and making our way into the Waterkant neighborhood for a fantastic coffee, served with hot milk (which, when you add sugar and hot milk slowly, the coffee turns from slightly bitter to quite sweet and stays hot the whole time...mmm). We also found our way into some delicious chocolate filled crossiants at the same french style cafe, Le Petit Tart.
A trip on the train south from Capetown took us and our friend, Molly the Librarian, on a fun excursion to the beach town of Muizenberg for a few hours of (sharky?) wave surfing on a rented board in a red and yellow clown suit, er, wetsuit. We saw our first Right whales on the train south further down to Kalk Bay for lunch at the Che Guevara inspired "Cape to Cuba." We also saw two sharks poke their dorsal fins out of the water. I'm glad I didn't see them while surfing. Our stop in the town of Simonstown had us walking to a Tibetean Tea house for the healthiest rice-krispy treat ever and then to Boulders beach for a view of the jackass penguins and their afternoon beach landing. They float in flocks toward the beach then speed up like miniature flying dolphins until they find shallow water enough that they can run up the rocks with their kneeless legs for a chance to shake off the water and puff their feathers for the night. Such a sight.
There was walking all over the city, and a trip to a winery and a university in Stellenbosch.
Now, we're watching the debates between McCain and Obama and tomorrow the debates between Biden and Palin. For all we see usually see on TV, I think we should take a play out of Canada's electoral book. Stephen Harper, the current prime minister of Canada is up for reelection in 9 days! The Canadians heard about this only yesterday! So, this means that the Canadians will have campaigned and elected a new leader in less than 2 weeks while United States campaigns drag on for literally two years at a time...ugh. OH CANADA:) good for you. I'm still coming happily back to the US, Uncle Charlie, but I could do without all the analysis of the election.:)
Finally, I have to say that I'm looking forward to Chennai, India. I think we'll buy a phrase book. The characters are way out of my league.
Enjoy this month of bonfires, warm days, soft sunsets and good surf where ever you find yourself.
Much Love,
Bill
We’re sailing north and east now, two days out of Capetown and we can still see the coastline as we move past pods of southern Bottlenose dolphins, southern Right whales and even some Humpback whales.
The southern Right whales are in the coastal areas of Capetown and the whole S. African Coast. They are named such because in their overhunting, whalers noticed that these whales yielded lots of blubber to be processed and, conveniently, didn't sink when they were harpooned...unlucky for them. Speaking of raw fish, Heather and I had a great sushi dinner at a swanky joint, more reminiscent of Manhattan than Africa, called Beluga. A nice host named Lawerence took a liking to me and found us a table despite our lack of reservation (or booking). The sushi made me think of the west coast of our own continent and all the good fish we enjoy. Then I got to missing friends and family everywhere and really not looking forward to the 11 day passage to Chennai.
But I have the fond memories of this trip to the continent of Africa. These countries (Namibia and South Africa) have much in common and really give me pause when I think of the disparities present in the walking life of the city. I should say that in the 4 years since my last visit to Capetown, I have noticed on this trip a much more visible African middle class of workers and professionals. The billboard advertising is reflecting that as well with more upscale products marketed directly to African individuals. There is still plenty of visible racism, but many of the institutions are working hard to make their places of work and employment inclusive in number and culture.
Heather and I had a great hike up Table mountain (1084 m), Lion's Head peak (780 m) and Signal Hill (304 m) all on Saturday last week. These three peaks form a ridge line from the coast up to the top of Table mountain and really make for a dramatic view from the ocean or the summit. We cheated our way down on the gondola/cable car, complete with a rotating floor for 360 degree views on the 4 minute ride down to the base.
Today on the water, I noticed the color had changed from a gray/green of the Atlantic to a deep midnight blue of the Indian Ocean. Our first night out of Capetown had us literally bouncing around as we crossed the line (on the map) where the two oceans actually come together. I'm not sure if there is a giant mythical whirlpool there, but if there was, our ship's Captain managed to avoid it and the Siren's song of Antarctica to the very far south.
Sunday and Monday last week found Heather and I dodging raindrops and making our way into the Waterkant neighborhood for a fantastic coffee, served with hot milk (which, when you add sugar and hot milk slowly, the coffee turns from slightly bitter to quite sweet and stays hot the whole time...mmm). We also found our way into some delicious chocolate filled crossiants at the same french style cafe, Le Petit Tart.
A trip on the train south from Capetown took us and our friend, Molly the Librarian, on a fun excursion to the beach town of Muizenberg for a few hours of (sharky?) wave surfing on a rented board in a red and yellow clown suit, er, wetsuit. We saw our first Right whales on the train south further down to Kalk Bay for lunch at the Che Guevara inspired "Cape to Cuba." We also saw two sharks poke their dorsal fins out of the water. I'm glad I didn't see them while surfing. Our stop in the town of Simonstown had us walking to a Tibetean Tea house for the healthiest rice-krispy treat ever and then to Boulders beach for a view of the jackass penguins and their afternoon beach landing. They float in flocks toward the beach then speed up like miniature flying dolphins until they find shallow water enough that they can run up the rocks with their kneeless legs for a chance to shake off the water and puff their feathers for the night. Such a sight.
There was walking all over the city, and a trip to a winery and a university in Stellenbosch.
Now, we're watching the debates between McCain and Obama and tomorrow the debates between Biden and Palin. For all we see usually see on TV, I think we should take a play out of Canada's electoral book. Stephen Harper, the current prime minister of Canada is up for reelection in 9 days! The Canadians heard about this only yesterday! So, this means that the Canadians will have campaigned and elected a new leader in less than 2 weeks while United States campaigns drag on for literally two years at a time...ugh. OH CANADA:) good for you. I'm still coming happily back to the US, Uncle Charlie, but I could do without all the analysis of the election.:)
Finally, I have to say that I'm looking forward to Chennai, India. I think we'll buy a phrase book. The characters are way out of my league.
Enjoy this month of bonfires, warm days, soft sunsets and good surf where ever you find yourself.
Much Love,
Bill
Friday, October 3, 2008
I love you, Desmond Tutu!
On Wednesday evening, our shipboard community had the honor of welcoming Archbishop Desmond Tutu for a short, last-minute visit to the MV Explorer. Upon our return on Tuesday from a day of riding the train and sightseeing, we were overjoyed to find a handwritten note pinned to the communication board in Tymitz Square (on Deck 5, this is a centralized area of the ship...like a open foyer). It read that Archbishop Tutu would be making a special guest appearance and talk at 1700 hours on October 1st. Rumor has it that he was notified that this might be SAS’s last visit to South Africa for an unknown period due to the rising coat of fuel (it seems that SAS will be more likely to travel through the Suez Canal in the next few years). Anyway, Archbishop Tutu has actually sailed twice with SAS and often made a visit when the ship was in port. I have been crossing my fingers since we left Norfolk that we would have some special, surprise opportunity like this one. It has been a few voyages since someone like Tutu or Castro had made an appearance on one of the larger voyages.
The Archbishop arrived and, I’ve been told, first posed for a photograph with our Captain (at the Captain’s special request) and then proceeded to go immediately to say hello to some of his friends at the Purser’s Desk (this is our Crew’s desk in Tymitz Square). He then turned to our Executive Dean, Jack van der Water, and said “What’s next?” with a smile. He was escorted to the Union, where many of us had been waiting for nearly 2 hours. He was welcomed with a standing ovation by the audience and proceeded down one aisle where he was seated in the chair directly in front of me! He was just inches away during the time he was introduced by our Academic Dean, Len Schoppa. Wow!! See our photo site (www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com for the photos that Bill took).
There are a few individuals in this world that I find truly larger-than-life and Archbishop Tutu is certainly one of them. These are also folks that I never expect to meet in my lifetime - what an honor and dream to actually see Desmond Tutu in person. He glowed with compassion and warmth and I felt I was truly in the presence of great kindness and strength.
The Archbishop rose after being introduced and spoke to us for about 45 minutes – he was full of compassionate advice and spirited appreciation of his fellow human beings. I was struck on numerous occasions by his willingness and intent to focus on the positive nature of people. Here is a man who suffered atrocious indignities in his homeland for decades, who has witnessed and sorted through these crimes of humanity with great detail and thoughtfulness and care and yet he began his speech to our room full of privileged Americans by reminding us how special we are to one another and the world community.
If I could explain to you how I am inspired to witness God, it is through people like Desmond Tutu. He cajoled us to consider how special we are as human beings, insisting that we think of one another as manifestations of God. He said “were we able to see one another with the right kind of eyes, we would be dazzled.” He spoke to us from his heart and his message was directed to each of our hearts. When asked, he stated that our country could do better to drop bread not bombs and to consider signing important things like the Kyoto Protocol. He also mentioned, when asked, that his greatest accomplishments were having a child and being part of the anti-Apartheid movement. Yet, in all of his commentary about the world, the US, and his own country he never boasted or laid blame. He gave credit where credit was due and softly asked us to consider other parts of the world when making decisions about our own life and families.
I’m telling you, I found this man as humble and compassionate as I imagine his Nobel Peace Prize colleagues and other spiritual leaders to be. Truly amazing. As many of you can already guess, I was moved to tears. In fact, at one point I wasn’t sure I was going to make it through the visit without having to excuse myself. As he walked past me and left the room, I was able to touch his shoulder and say thanks. The hour felt like seconds and I’m convinced time actually stood still. I was absolutely dazzled.
The Archbishop arrived and, I’ve been told, first posed for a photograph with our Captain (at the Captain’s special request) and then proceeded to go immediately to say hello to some of his friends at the Purser’s Desk (this is our Crew’s desk in Tymitz Square). He then turned to our Executive Dean, Jack van der Water, and said “What’s next?” with a smile. He was escorted to the Union, where many of us had been waiting for nearly 2 hours. He was welcomed with a standing ovation by the audience and proceeded down one aisle where he was seated in the chair directly in front of me! He was just inches away during the time he was introduced by our Academic Dean, Len Schoppa. Wow!! See our photo site (www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com for the photos that Bill took).
There are a few individuals in this world that I find truly larger-than-life and Archbishop Tutu is certainly one of them. These are also folks that I never expect to meet in my lifetime - what an honor and dream to actually see Desmond Tutu in person. He glowed with compassion and warmth and I felt I was truly in the presence of great kindness and strength.
The Archbishop rose after being introduced and spoke to us for about 45 minutes – he was full of compassionate advice and spirited appreciation of his fellow human beings. I was struck on numerous occasions by his willingness and intent to focus on the positive nature of people. Here is a man who suffered atrocious indignities in his homeland for decades, who has witnessed and sorted through these crimes of humanity with great detail and thoughtfulness and care and yet he began his speech to our room full of privileged Americans by reminding us how special we are to one another and the world community.
If I could explain to you how I am inspired to witness God, it is through people like Desmond Tutu. He cajoled us to consider how special we are as human beings, insisting that we think of one another as manifestations of God. He said “were we able to see one another with the right kind of eyes, we would be dazzled.” He spoke to us from his heart and his message was directed to each of our hearts. When asked, he stated that our country could do better to drop bread not bombs and to consider signing important things like the Kyoto Protocol. He also mentioned, when asked, that his greatest accomplishments were having a child and being part of the anti-Apartheid movement. Yet, in all of his commentary about the world, the US, and his own country he never boasted or laid blame. He gave credit where credit was due and softly asked us to consider other parts of the world when making decisions about our own life and families.
I’m telling you, I found this man as humble and compassionate as I imagine his Nobel Peace Prize colleagues and other spiritual leaders to be. Truly amazing. As many of you can already guess, I was moved to tears. In fact, at one point I wasn’t sure I was going to make it through the visit without having to excuse myself. As he walked past me and left the room, I was able to touch his shoulder and say thanks. The hour felt like seconds and I’m convinced time actually stood still. I was absolutely dazzled.
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