Honks & Head-bobs

We are sailing through the Nicobar Islands this evening. These islands are actually part of India, though we are really off the coasts of Sumatra, Malaysia and Thailand. The weather is still muggy and warm and the sun is shining. I saw my first pod of dolphins from the ship yesterday afternoon, just outside our cabin window. There must have been 30 dolphins in the group – so exciting.

As we move away from India, I am recalling the myriad sights, sounds, and smells that we encountered – a sensory-loaded experience that was like no other. India is truly a visceral place. You cannot move about the country without tasting the spices, smog and sweat in the air. And the smiles of the people you meet are infectious.

One of the diplomats who gave us a briefing on the morning of our arrival mentioned the quote (I forget by whom) – “Whatever you can say about India, the reverse is true.” So aptly put! For all the warmth and generosity of the people, there are so many without any material possessions and without food. For all the dirt and trash, there is a vivid beauty in the bright textiles and shrines. I was utterly amazed by the women, wearing their gorgeous, richly-colored, silk sarees. It’s as if they do not sweat or get their clothing dirty as they move about their day, commuting to work or sweeping the ground. A very dignified people.

Upon our arrival, Bill & I darted onto land as soon as was possible and hopped into a rickshaw and then into an auto-rickshaw (2-stroke, 3-wheeled and very fun). Our driver, Rama, took us to a few shops – it seems that many of the auto-rickshaw drivers are paid a commission to bring tourists to specific shops. We figured this out and were actually impressed with the amount of networking that occurs between various factions of society – a thoughtful and practical way to make some extra cash. Rama wanted to take us to a cobra/mongoose fight but we adamantly declined, multiple times. We found that folks are very persistent in India and you often have to repeat yourself or walk away. Rama drove on and we headed out of town to Mamallapuram for the night.

Mamallapuram has been deemed a World Heritage Site and it is full of very old temples and some amazing bas-relief stone carvings. It’s also on the coast so there is a lively fishing industry and we walked the beach among all the small fishing boats that had come in for the night. The coastline of eastern India was hit hard by the tsunami in December 2004. Some 3,000 people were killed in Chennai and more in Mamallapuram. We could see the rebuilt shops and homes as we walked the beach and the government housing that was built immediately following the tsunami for those that lost their homes. Some of the small fishing vessels had USAID or Red Cross painted across the stern.

The second day we returned to the ship – Bill had duty from 8pm to 8am. We wanted to head further south to Pondicherry but time did not allow. We had actually signed up for one of our few SAS trips on this whole trip. This one was an overnight visit to Kanchipuram – a town about 75km from Chennai. We were hosted by an NGO called Rural Institute of Development Education (RIDE). It’s been around since 1984 and their focus was initially on relieving child labor from silk factories. Their work now also includes working to relieve child labor in the stonecutting business as well as supporting small groups, called “Self Help Groups”, that are intended to encourage and scaffold projects like small-business loans, personal home loans, etc.
We visited with a group of RIDE women in a small village outside of Kanchipuram and were treated to a very warm welcome and tour of the area. We had the opportunity to see some of the local homes and huts. The village was separated into two sections – one for the Dalit (untouchable) people and the other for a different, higher caste. I was told that this is common in the more rural areas. In Chennai, the closest thing to caste housing that I witnessed were the shantytowns tucked under bridges or along the rivers. The poverty is indescribable really. As with all of these ports, the images and interactions are still sifting through me.

Upon returning to Chennai, Bill & I headed into town for dinner and in search of some more really great food. South Indian food is amazing and we shared a meal with two young men at a very popular chain called Saravana Bhavan (there is one in the bay area that we’ll have to search out upon our return to California). The two men were brothers, one just finished with university and the other in his last year of high school. We had a great time chatting with them and comparing stories. After dinner, we tried to catch a movie at one of the many theaters (movies are very big in India) but the show was sold out.

We ventured out early on our last day in town, meeting our driver at 9am. Rama sent us off with a different driver, Purush, whom we had met on our second day. He took very good care of us that last day – helping us to order a few photo prints for some of Bill’s students, making certain we purchased the correct postage at the post office and showing us a few more shops so that we could purchase some last-minute souvenirs. We had lunch at a place called Mocha – very Latin feeling, actually, with outdoor seating and brightly colored walls. I had a lovely cup of chai and Bill enjoyed some Indian Peaberry coffee. We also indulged in an amazing dark chocolate dessert and some yummy sandwiches. Afterward it was time to head back to the ship.

Some of my favorite things about India:
*butter paneer masala & as much garlic naan as we could eat
*lime sodas
*The head-bobbing!! South Indians nod their head as they listen, much like we do in the US – except they nod from side to side, moving with their chin.
*horns – when driving, everyone honks to let you know they are behind you or coming at you. There is very little, if any, aggression despite the insane amount of things on the roadway including bicycles, large buses, people, and cows.
*the dhotis (long pieces of cloth wrapped at the waist, like a skirt – worn by men) and the sarees
*the colorful cattle horns painted red and green and adorned with bells
*the spirituality of the country, in general
*bikes, bikes, bikes!

I’ve put up some photos to our webpage:
www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com
Enjoy!

Thanks, Woody & Joy, for your letter! And Elyse – thanks for your letter and the notes from your students! We sent you a number of response letters written by us and some of the Red Sea students.

Happy Birthday, Julian!
And Happy Belated Birthday, Ed Paco!

Much love,
heather ;)