Seductively Beautiful Cape Town

The alarm clock rang at 5:30am and Bill and I dragged ourselves up onto one elbow to peer out our portside window for any view of land. Lucky for us, we were traveling south along the South African coastline from Namibia. Sunrise was not until 6:30am but the local pilot was to board our ship at 5am for a 6:30 docking. We certainly did not want to miss the potentially dramatic arrival into Cape Town with the sun rising behind Table Mountain. Alas, after making our way to the front and top of the ship, in the warm confines of the Faculty/Staff Lounge, we found our view to be clouded with gray mist and faraway lights off the portside. As we watched, we seemed to be sailing right past the lights and the dim outline of the great, flat-top mountain that stretches almost to the waterline. We continued past the lights and turned out toward the ocean, rocking and rolling with the rough waves. It seemed, the water was too rough and we had to circle a bit out in the deeper water. Eventually, we came around full circle and headed toward the Cape Town harbor from a more southerly direction and could begin to make out the details of the coastal city and neighboring towns.

As we made our way closer to the narrow channel that we would negotiate in order to enter the Waterfront, we passed low-lying Robben Island on our port side, home to many political prisoners during the Apartheid era including Nelson Mandela. In contrast, our starboard view began to unveil large, beautiful homes built into the cliffs along the Atlantic seaboard – communities like Sea Point and Clifton that were historically white only. Already, Cape Town was welcoming us into her troubled racial history. We arrived dockside at Jetty #2 in the Victoria & Albert Waterfront and it felt like Pier 39 in San Francisco. Full of shops, restaurants and companies advertising various outings such as helicopter rides, 1-day safari tours, champagne cruises and shark-cage diving, the Waterfront was beautiful and colorful. It felt very safe and very Western. Complete with food from around the world, the only thing missing (thankfully) was a Starbucks.

Behind the Waterfront sat the skyscrapers of the City Centre/Bo-Kaap supported by the dramatic backdrop of Table Mountain, flanked on the left by Devil’s Peak and on the right by Lion’s Head and Signal Hill. The latter is only 1000 feet high and was used by the early Dutch settlers – as a new ship would approach the Cape, a flag would be raised to alert the shopkeepers to ready their goods for sale. On the second day of our stay, Bill and I walked to the top of Signal Hill with our friends, Ed & Barbara Sobey. As we approached the saddle between Signal Hill and Lion’s Head from the west (ocean side), we kept our ears open for the guttural sounds of baboons (just in case) and we were pleasantly surprised by the totally unexpected sound of prayers being sung. As we drew nearer to the top of Signal Hill we passed an old mosque and a few marked graves. There were two men in different spots singing songs of mourning.

After leaving the Sobeys to pick their way back down the hill to our ship, Bill and I turned around and walked back past the mosque and up the path toward Lion’s Head. *If you look at www.heatherbill.shutterfly.com you can find this peak – it’s very pointed on the top. Signal Hill is affectionately called the Lion’s Rump* It took us just over an hour until we sat atop, munching on our PB&J sandwiches and chocolate cookies. The last 30 minutes we scrambled up ladders and chain-supported sections with hand-holds pounded into the rock. It was a steep, steep and exposed top. Felt a bit like climbing Mt. Katahdin in central Maine.

When we were well-rested, we set off down Lion’s Head only this time we wanted to head southeast toward the main approach to Table Mountain. We skirted the large, massive mountain on its west side as we walked the Pipe Track under the Twelve Apostles (a series of peaks that stretch down toward the tip of the Cape Peninsula). We found our route up, called The Diagonal. Turns out that the trail builders in South Africa like to go straight up, with little to no switchbacks. We started literally climbing rock stairs up into a drainage we were to follow south around multiple buttresses. At one point, the trail directed us at a good 60 degree angle up Porcupine Ravine. We picked our way along the rocks, hoping to not surprise a Cape Cobra or Berg Adder sunning itself on a rock. Very long walk later, we made our way into the Valley of the Red Gods and then, finally, north again toward Echo Valley and the summit of Table Mountain.

Eight hours since leaving our ship, we sat upon the Western Table drenched and wet amidst the cool breeze and dropping temperatures. It was one of those awkward moments when you’ve drug yourself up a physically challenging route with no one around to suddenly find yourself surrounded by many people looking freshly showered and smelling clean, eating hamburgers and sipping cool drinks and shopping in the gift shop (they presumably rode the cable car). We bought two Cokes and ate our remaining sandwiches and fruit. We also rode the cable car down the hill – it was a sweet splurge.

Other moments of note from our time in Cape Town included a day spent riding the commuter train and a day spent in Stellenbosch.

Commuter Train:
We spent one day with our friend, Molly Sorice (the assistant librarian). We picked up the train from City Centre and our first stop was Muizenberg for surf. Bill ended up being the only one brave enough to face the cold water. Molly and I sat in a café and chatted while munching on some very good scones with jam and fresh cream. Bill had a 2-hour session and scratched his surfing itch. The waves were frequent and thigh-to-waist high. The crowds were very thin and he caught many waves.

We all hopped back onto the Red Line. From Muizenberg the train line follows the coast, sometimes sitting only a few feet from the water. We stopped in Kalk Bay, just 2 more stops down the track. We quickly found the original Cape to Cuba restaurant tucked against the train tracks in this quaint town. It reminded me of Ciao Bella with all the eclectic furniture and artwork. Everything in the restaurant has been imported from Cuba, Russia and another place I cannot recall. The food was soooo good. Spicy and warm, washed down with beer from Havana.

From there, we trained it to Simon’s Town. Along this last 20 minutes, we spotted five or six Right Whales as they rolled along the coastline only 30 feet from shore. We also spotted two shark fins cruising past! In Simon’s Town we walked 3km to a wonderful treat, The Tibetan Teahouse, where we sat on a balcony overlooking the water and drank pots of chai and coffee with warm milk. Next we set off for Boulders Beach to see the colony of Jackass Penguins – so freakin’ cute.

Stellenbosch:
This was one of our few SAS trips – we went first to Stellenbosch University and were led around campus by a student, Lieb, for a tour. We were then treated to a very interesting lecture about the university system in SA, particularly post-Apartheid. Following this, we were driven out to Denheim Vineyards for a wine cellar tour and tasting with lunch. So lovely and beautiful, despite the rainy day. A day well-spent though difficult to swallow – on the way to Stellenbosch (about 30 minutes drive, in the winelands that are nestled just outside of Cape Town proper), I had my first glimpse of the townships. We drove, in our luxury tour buses, along a normal-looking highway – 2 lanes on either side and similar to our larger roads in the US. I had seen pictures and movies about South Africa’s townships but I was still under-prepared emotionally for the reality of the lack of housing resources that these communities have been historically given. Bill and I both made a conscious choice to not participate in any Township Tours, either with SAS or with local companies. It felt like taking a tour of historically poor neighborhoods in the States – very contrived. However, I felt torn by a responsibility to see these living, breathing spaces. For that I am grateful for a small glimpse from the bus. I am still processing and considering the economic apartheid that still exists in South Africa.

Similarly, during our numerous outings I was often reminded that just 14 years ago most of Cape Town's citizens were unable to visit the same places I was seeing. Table Mountain and the beaches, for example, were white-only during Apartheid. And the commuter train we took to Simon's Town was histocially a "black" train as it was mostly used by domestic-working women as they travelled between their homes in Cape Flats (the townships) and the white neighborhoods on the Cape Penisula. Most of these women actually lived in small rooms behind the employer's house and were only able to travel home to see their own children and families on Sundays.

Other interesting things from the last few days:
*Playing frogger as we attempted to cross the busy roads near the Waterfront - reading the traffic on the left side of the road got easier as time passed but some of the streets are really large and not pedestrian-friendly. We actually had one guy selling newspapers give us an escort across at one point - he was very sweet.

*The quaint, little French cafe that we found in the Waterkant neighborhood. We were in search of a bicycle shop/cafe that had apparently moved since our guide book was published. Le Petite Tarte was just around the corner and was a much better find, in our minds. We went back a second day for another lovely coffee and chocolate croissant. Heavenly.

*Whales, whales, whales! We've been seeing pods of Humpback whales from the ship for two days. They consist of 2-3 members and have been as close as 100 feet. I watched multiple adults breaching from the front deck of our ship a few days ago. Another spiritual experience for me. As my friend, Ed Sobey, commented, "If you are not moved by watching a whale swim through the ocean, you might not have a soul."

I am, in fact, still processing much of my visit to South Africa. It was a vibrant and full seven days. As a shipboard community, many of us are still sorting through the experience as we start to look east toward India. I’m finding there is not enough time for reflection nor the proper tools in place for the work that could be done for all members of this community. There is so much to process.

In general, the African continent treated me very well and I was very sad two nights ago to pull away from the dock in Cape Town. The south/southeast coast of South Africa has been visible from our ship for two days now. It is with a heavy heart that I wave good-bye to a place that feels like a long-lost friend. I hope and pray that I will return to some piece of this great, large, complex continent very soon.

Thanks, again, Woody for another letter. Loved your ideas for Cape Town - we didn't actually get your letter until the last day but luckily we had done most of what you suggested. But the copies of your scrapbook have given me great ideas!
We received the Falkiners card and Elyse's class letters - thank you all!!! Our cabin wall is starting to really fill up with these cards and letters and makes it feel a bit more like home.
Sarah Hoffman - Bill mentioned that you sent something to Namibia. I'm very sad that we did not receive it. Thank you for thinking of us.
We're still wondering if any of our postcards from Brasil made it to the States. We sent about 15 of them and are sad they didn't reach their intended homes.

Hope opening went well for the UCSC folks!!
Joy & Joe - Mandy (Mag) is with us now. He is so great! And he said hello to you both with smile.
Sarah - I heard that two of our dining hall crew were on the Scholarship - I'm still trying to hunt them down. We had 35 crew leave us in Cape Town and, obviously, 35 more embark so I'm still getting to know the new faces.

I'm sure there is something else I wanted to write but I will sign off for now. Much love to everyone!!
heather ;)